Mopar1973Man

Good question... I'm curious of that too...

BTU - British Thermal Unit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Btu As for the way it works... Now if you look on the side (right) of the table its labeled viscosity cSt (Centistokes) this is how thick the fuel is at 100*F. Now yes 2 cycle oil is at about 80 cSt @ 100*F roughly depending on brand. But when mixing with diesel fuel it might rise a bit but I do think a whole like maybe like 1-2 cSt tops really. Our truck are 35 US gallon (134 Liters - I think) so at 128:1 ratio its like 4480 ounce of fuel with 35 ounces of oil. Pretty thin really when you see that. This part is from what I learn from people trying to run waste engine oil at high levels say 25-50%. But now some people want to use highier ratios than 128:1 well what happens is 2 fold... First as you increase over the 100:1 ratio the oil slows down the burn process so much that it become inefficient as a fuel. Then the second part as the fuel thickens it become more diffcult from the injection pump to push the thicken fuel causing stress to the injection pump. Down the pipe from there the thicken fuel will not spray properly out of the injectors so it will tend to squirt which now causing poor ignition quality and cylinder wear issues.

Everyone is welcome to the site. But we are all just a big happy diesel family. So bring your questions and we'll do our best to answer them. On a personal note... I've got a bit of Polish blood in me from my Mom's side of the family... But once again welcome to the site all are welcome... Doesn't matter what you drive or where your from.

Welcome to the site... The quietness from 2 cycle oil is from a simple thing. All oils are cetane reducers but there is a plus. Every time you reduce the cetane you increase the BTU content. But with lower cetane the fuel burns slower and longer with more energy. High cetane additive tend to burn explosive and short with less BTU's. So don't get too carried away getting lower in cetane, the fuel will never burn completely and energy is wasted.

Add a summer time EGT for yeah... EGT: ~600-650*FSpeed: 55 MPHAmbient Temp: 104*FWeather Conditions: Hot, 15% RHYear: 2002Model: 2500Trans: NV4500Driveline: 4WDWinterfront: No (IAT Temp 128*F @ 195*F coolant)RPM: ~1600Boost: ~2 PSI Note: Yes. I'm using the actual IAT sensor and not the MPG fooler.

No... Turbo has zero bearing on the grey haze at idle being the turbo making 0 boost at idle... But timing would have a bigger effect on haze than anything else... Oh yeah the other thing is weak lift pump ressure. Like Relentless just changed his lift pump and huge difference in performance. 6-7 PSI is normal.

Little better pic...

Summary needed... That is a huge thread I'll have to get back to it...

+1 Pictures needed!

Glad your safe... The truck can be fixed... But I'm sure you'll block the tires next time... I had a simular thing happen in my yard with the TT. I thought the yard was level enough not to block the wheel of the trailer. So I unhitched and had it sitting on the jack block as usual bu the ground being soft it rolled just enough to drop the hitch on the ground and stop (about 2 feet). So now any time I working with a trailer I block both wheels.

Here you go I got more information on it... http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/Voma/Solid-Trac/15374

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/41373/10002/-1 Found it... Yes... I've got a low pressure light get my attention that something is wrong...

I need to run back and place a link to this...

Only time you don't want to push the caliper piston back in is when you know you have a bound up piston. So like my truck right now the front caliper is binding up from debris most likely. So if you push it back in you take the risk of tearing chunks out of the seals. If you brakes are working fine then I've push the pistons back in as well. No issues here...

My bad... But still be careful with the mixture...

Like the truck...

Remember the VP44 pump is designed for 3-5 cSt (centiStoke) fuel not 50 cSt @ 100*F its just way to thick. The only way you could burn large amounts of this oil is to heat it to 210*F then it drops to 9 cSt. So what happen is you put way more stress on the VP44 pump trying to push this thick cold oil in the cool mornings. Then the oil is so thick it doesn't atomize so it doesn't burn good either. Any oil is a cetane reducer so if you add too much oil the burn rate is so slow that you'll actually degrade your MPG number trying to save a few pennys... Once you drop below 100:1 ratio most people report back they lose performance and MPG. The exhaust smoke turns more white. 5% volume is 1.75 Gallons of oil which is cummins designed max... Which is 20:1 ratio. My biggest worry is the the oil viscosity more so that anything else that little VP44 has to pump up that oil to over 4,500 PSI just for a idle. Thicker the material the harder to compress...

Not a problem...

Hmmm... 40 weight... I would start out at 200:1 and work your way towards 128:1 then you can figure out your happy spot. But you won't need to go below 128:1 ratio and you shouldn't need to be above 200:1 ratio.

That seriously crazy EGT's there... Either need more boost pressure or your need smaller injectors...

Now there is a real fixer-upper...

Is the pedal fighting you back? Like the ABS pump is runnig but like fighting to keep you from stopping? What I found out in my case was the 2 front sensor didn't match quite right and so the ABS pump was trying to keep the wheels from locking even though they were not locked. So if the wheel sensors are functional and showing speed but there is a mild offset to it it will treat it like there is excessive brake pressure on on side at this point you'd have a hard pedal. But since both sensor are functional its not going to throw the ABS light. You might consider replacing the other side so the are both matching...

Have no idea... All I know this was a unversial kit that fit many applications...

Here what I bought at NAPA to do mine...

Hmmm... Corroded connector or wet connector some where?