Mopar1973Man

Don't do the intank pump... All the error code are right on and correct... The lift pump failed by having a open circuit... Then the fuel pressure fell and the electronics of the injection pump started over heating because of lack of fuel pressure and the heat generated by friction spinning part inside the VP44 pump. So now the electronics dies and so does the truck... But THe P0232 might be the reason for the it won't start again.. Not sure of that internally of the VP44 or wiring issue.

Been using cheap ol' NAPA 190*F thermostats my max temp is 202*F typically.

Are you getting power to the compressor clutch?

Yes I did last year at this same time... But the core has failed... It's leaking... I pressureized the system with compressed air and ran the A/C to move the dye around. Then shut it all down and watch with a black light in a dark shop and never found any green dye in the engine bay area. So this means the evaporator is leaking again... I even pulled a vacuum back on it and checked and it loses 5 in/mg in about 10 minutes time. So it a good sized leak... So now that I got the new core I'll grab the video camera and record the re-do of this... And you guys will find out its easy as pie to do... (Serously!)

Very interesting way to look at it... 7,400# = 3.7 Tons (Just weighed my truck today)21 MPG Which is 77.7 miles per gallon per ton for my truck. As for my Mom's 96 Dodge... 5,500# = 2.75 Tons (Using old weight)14 MPG (On a good day) Which is 38.5 miles per gallon per ton for a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Ext Cab Short Box 5.9L Gas engine with automatic trans (3.55:1 gears). Hmmm... Going out long... Honda Rancher ATV (420cc engine fuel injected) 835# = .4175 Tons (With me in the saddle - rough weight)30 MPG 12.5 miles per gallon per ton.... Weird way to look at it but it does make sense...

Like you said everyone is in a hurry to go nowhere... I'm sure I've told this story before but I've had people pissed off at me and tell me so when I've stopped for fuel but when I ask the person how must fuel mileage he/she gets "Oh 12-15 MPG" you know the person get rather pissy when you tell them to slow down and enjoy 20-22 MPG. I've also got another follower that calls on a regulare basis and he was asing would he be able to make a 190-200 one way trip with 100 gallons of diesel? I told him I can get 700-750 miles out of 35 gallon of diesel only if you slow down and get off the interstate. He typically drives 75-80 MPH... :banghead:

No... Just seem I got the wheel twisted left about 30-45* angle to hold straight line down the road. Even when the truck was brand new it was very slightly to the left and now it growing and getting worse it just seem like way too much over correction. As for slop there is very little that I can tell... I'm expecting to replace parts in the front end after 180K miles there has to be some wear in parts... But since my budget for part is thin I need to know which one is the worse right now and start with ugly and work my way back to easy breezy...

I think I explain that poorly... I didn't mean you sacrificed performance or HP/TQ but we can't drive our truck at MAX HP/TQ and expect to have high MPG's. Like in my study of it Economy comes with engine load of less than 15%. So if I dyno'ed at 381/831 back in 2007 that mean I'm only using 15% of 381 Max HP/831 Max TQ which happens to be roughly 57 HP/124 TQ. I've still got all the muscle I need under the hood but only use a very small fraction of the power now very efficently...

The wonders of a video camera... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwFu8ffH3JE Well it looks like Track Bar is on the list... From RockAuto.com page I'm going to try prying on the knucles a bit more and see if there is other play... I do have the up and down movement...

Ok Gang... I just got my replacement evaporator core from the local NAPA store. (Lifetime warranty - No cost) So when I go to pull the dash out I'm going to grab the video camera and record out the whole affair. Show you that pulling the dash is really easy on a Dodge Ram!

Ok Gang... I have had enough of my truck need constant counter-steering to the left it get back enough I'm starting to have problem hold it straight. I've got 183K miles on the clock and nothing but front axle bearing have been done. Anyone got sure fire ways of inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends to tell if they need replacing. I know I could look in the Dodge FSM but I rather hear from all of you that have done axle work and what to look for. I can say my tires are still wearing good and straight no feathering or tappering of the tread. I'm going to jack up the nose of the truck and take a peek and see what I can find...

We as for the performance / economy its a give and take relationship... Economy (Hi MPG) <---------------------> Performance (Hi HP/TQ) As for the IAT temp that is a smog/emissions control so no one in the corporate field will even go here because all in all I'm sure it will turn noses up in CARB/EPA testing areas. But I look at it this way if I'm saving fuel I can't be producing that much more emissions. Kind of like the out of the box thinking of 2 cycle oil in diesel fuel... Still to this day corporate American will not acknowledge the 2 cycle oil but in the private sector like yourselves everyone is at least trying it and more like the results.

Floating ground... It a separate ground system from the actual ground of the body.

Your going to laugh... The air horns on my truck are over 20 years old and cheap Pep Boys air horns like $29 bucks. Then I wired the horns into the stock horns by picking out the rubber seal on the stock wire carefully and slid it back a bit then tucked the new horn wire right along side the factory wires. The end of the wires are just stripped and push into the sockets and the rubber seal pressed in place... Serious...

Stodg hit it... I read the post and found this tidbit... http://www.candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/9004_9007.pdf

I've got a set of cheap air horns tucked behind the front bumper... I did that a long time ago... I have no idea if my stock horns work or not but I sure hear the air horns good...

Well that suxs... Hopefully you get something from Harbor Frieght... I'm glad my truck is going on 10 years old and has its rash of scratches and dings... I remember the day I bought the truck brand new... Fresh paint job and worried constantly about getting scratches and dents... Sure pretty all painted up but hell of a time worrying about the paint, parking lots, door dings, shopping carts...

Welcome to the family... As for the Smarty I wish I had one I would mail it to you and let you borrow it. But I don't, so I can... Hang loose you never know if someone might own one pop in and be able to help out...

I'll say it nice way of getting your attention on the gauge when there is a bright LED winking in your face...

Keep reporting back your results...

Actually better at Edge Comp on 5x5... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDvurlwOYsU

Smarty or a trip to the dealer would do it... As for a design template for the MPG fooler Yes... But remember you need the IAT plugs and the 2K resistor in place of the other parts shown. Yes. Prowelder is the site's manufacture of the high idle kits... Currently in debug phase for the MPG/High ilde kits.. Well the high idle designs are here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/high-idle.htm The MPG fooler design are here in the thread... I'm already feeling the pinch here at $4.319 and going up yet...

Download both files?

Well the limp mode should have a error code with it. I would start there and see what is going wrong...

Basically build a ECT fooler but using IAT plugs and then replace the resistor with the 2K ohm. Really simple.