Mopar1973Man

Subscribing...

Here is what I have for a puller...

I've heard the same thing something about voltage diffences in the MAP sensor... I agree with Whitelightnin' give Edge a call they will tell you for sure...

Actually there is a difference... High idle is a flash yes be there do not reprogram the ECM/PCM at all all they do is ENABLE the high idle function and that all... As for taking a software update then you end up with all the goofy problem hence the oil pressure gauge become a idiot light.

Sorry to say it won't... The RPM's might drop but your adding more rotational mass, more rotational resistance (tread face is wider). Just shaving 22-25 pound of weight off the tires will gain you 1-2 MPG... So what you gain in getting the RPM's down you'll lose in the rotational mass and rotational resistance of the tires. You'll gain more by actually changing the gears... Think about it ricers tires weigh like 25-30 pounds... Mine weight 60 pounds... And I know 315 are pushing nearly 100 pounds... Now you'll say you can roll them round easy... Get a axle to stick on the hub and the turn the axle without a lever device and you'll find larger tires are hard to twist. But now do this with a lighter tire and you'll find it much easier.

ECM & APPS Calibration Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. Turn key to ON position. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set.

What I did for key power source is tapped one of the switched +12V fuses in the cab and ran it to a relay as a trigger and powered the relay from the battery so now I've got a key switch +12V power source that does no harm to the stock wiring and such.

Parking lamps and turn signals are 2 different circuits really. Turn signals should as ISX shows in his video above. As for the parking lights there should a separate fuse. You might download the wiring diagram to take a peek... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=128 Edit... Opps limited membership... send me a email to mnelson@mopar1973man.com and I'll sent the file to ya...

Yeah DiPricols were the cheapest gauge at $40 bucks but the rumor I'm hearing is that there is problems at DiPricol itsself. ISSPro is also a good gauge as well... Autometer is the most expensive gauge...

Double check all you connectors under the hood. ECM and PCM then there is 3 connectors over the valve cover and check the plug in the PDC. Be careful not to strip the screw out in the PDC.

The only thing that you might watch for is possible CAT plugging at the worse case. The only other thing it might effect is the oxygen sensor. But I don't see it hurting anything as for engine wise... 256:1 should be fine.

In 9 years of owning my truck with both stock and AirDog system (5 years) I've only seen water once (WIF light lit) in the all the years... I knew why because of the cheap mom & pop fuel station I got fuel at. But during my AD150 servicing I dump the entire contents of the WS filter in a bucket looking for water and never have. Also check the stock housing for water and never have found any again...

Here is both 265 and 235 lets see if you can spot them...

Yeah elshadow01 there is another article now on the site showing that BioDiesel is creating 400% more emission compared to petroleum diesel so what are you gaining... If you want to look at the emissions that are around you... Every time USFS (US Forest Service) lights a control burn in Idaho it can produce more emissions that entire state of California...

Ok the ECM is the controller of the anti-stall (Manual trans) but on a Automatic its not needed so both the PCM and ECM both need to be rteflashed to operate properly.

As fr the copying of the hard drive I normally use Nortn's Ghost which was actually PowerQuest Drive Image years ago. But regardless the Norton Ghost 14 or 15 will make a prefect copy of the orignal drive and place it on the new drive. Comes with its own boot disk and operating system. After that its works flawless as a backup program... As for larger drives you will see a slow down after they load up with information say 1 TB or so... The way the hard drive works is that windows asks for a file the hard drive must go the index and look up the placement of the file on the drive. Then go read the file from the drive. Kind of like having encyclopedias and using the index book to look up "diesel" and pull the book and look up the pages. Now what I've normally always done to gain just a small bit of performance back is to partition the dirve up. So using your 1.5 TB drive I would consider doing 250 GB partitions or 500 GB partitions. So now your index table is greatly shorten. If a logicall drive error occurs it only effects the logical drive not he entire drive. Or better yet if a virus land on the drive it only a small drive to scan much faster. As for the screws I'm got close to 50# of those... I'll give them to you if needed...

Hmmm... If it was me I would consider just getting the vulcan draw straw and drill and tap a fitting into the module for standard 3/8 hose and attach the return line with normal rubber hose and hose clamps. Way cheaper than a Dodge dealer can do...

Randy4140... Could you do as all a favor and shot a pic of the engine and then one of the driver side door jamb label... This will resolve the engine / year problem we are having... For example like my setup... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2122-Mopar1973Man-2002-Dodge-Cummins Yeah and LiveOak's thread has everything you need for getting the job done wonderful set of videos... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2352-Timing-cover-broken?p=18016&viewfull=1#post18016

If your going to do this open the cap to the fuel tank... Use small short burst and have a partner listen at the fuel tank. Be aware the fuel might spray out of the filler neck also if you forget to open the cap it might spray back fuel on you when you release the blow gun...

Ok... A few question for you... [*]Does your running light work properly? (Headlights on) [*]Does the left and right turn signal work properly? My first thought is the multi-function switch in the column is to blame because... If you turn on the left turn signal the brake light on the left side is canelled (disconnected) and allow the flash to control the taillight. Then all the wiring comes down the driver side frame rail and splices to the passenger. So if its a wiring issues both would be dead. So the problem is forward of the driverside bulb... Hence my though of the mutli-function switch. Try wiggling the connector and the switch arm... But I think a contact wore plain and simple.

Well on my return trip to the airport today I managed to stopp and see David again... Also found out his username this time... (Diesel Dummy)... Now a little background on David he owns to Dodge Cummins trucks one is a 3rd gen and the other is a 2nd gen 24V. He's a total newibe to the diesel world so as soon as I resolve his login issue he's going to need everyone to help him learn about diesels...

No... At least not me.. Killer dowel pin fell out... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/kdp/kdp.htm Well its going to be a full weekend job... Your going to need to pull the front off the engine plus pull the cam out. That's if your replacing the gear case. Cummins or Dodge dealer??? Steel cover but aluminum case. What little I can provide...

Yeap... W&F is right that you got to becareful about the head gasket. ARP studs will most likely be the next step...

It best to get the oil pressure sender from a Cummins dealer it cheaper that way...

Like I had ISX do the math on his local red dye and on-highway fuels from what I remember him saying it was about a $3 dollar saving over a 35 gallon tank which make it buy 34 gallons get 1 gallon free... So is it really worth taking the risk for 1 free gallon of fuel (16-18 more miles)?