Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... Current form... RV275 Injectors, Edge Comp 5x5, Straight Pipe Exhaust and BHAF. Cruising at 22 MPG (55-60 MPH) I see 500-550*F EGT and about 1-2 PSI of boost. WOT at 100 MPH - 34.5 PSI of boost - I'm tipping 1,500*F EGT. (Only done this once!) I'm very PRE Turbo...

That's the problem if you increase the signal voltage out of the APPS the voltage would most likely cross the printed voltage on the APPS if your stock. So this would trip the switches to reverse (off idle). I'm wondering what your at for voltage now (APPS Signal) and what you APPS voltage is on the tag? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=699

The problem is the elctronics are faced against the fuel side of the module so mounting something on top isn't going to do much. The CPU cooler and fan idea was tried for many years but there but so little proof that it actually works. I've seen people use blowers from power boats with plumbed in cold outside air with a timer box that runs the blower till the VP44 is cool. But once a again there is no proof or long term testing showing that it actually worked... I'm starting to lean back on the though of a good high volume pump like a AD 150 or FASS 150 and keeping the fuel pressure between 15-20 PSI this way I'm sure the overflow valve remains open all the time. I had a conversation with another fellow that was telling me that he works with VP30 and VP44 pumps on tractor and such too. Come to find out that both models of injection pump have a very poor ablity to pull fuel even though the have the on-board vane pump. (Which we knew to the more part). But the I'm starting to think the internal vane pump isn't really doing its job all the hot. even at low pressure like 10-14 PSI that vane pump if it was working right it should be able to pull a enough fuel to push the overflow open...

I think you both have lost your minds...

You could crank up the APPS sensor but now you'll have problems with the idle validation switches... So I not sure how you would get it idled up more without making a new problem... Vp44?

Might have??? But know since you got a new sensor and the problem is solved I would hang on to the old one and lean it pu and see if you need a new one in the future maybe it will work for ya...

Yeah I do but I don't want to think that I'm turning 40 years old, and only old tymers wear them (no offence to you guys!) I've been wearing glasses since I was 11 years old. So that doesn't bother me...

Engine remains turned off... Place the cap over the mouth of the turbo and now you use compressed air and regulate it to 20 PSI. Which this now simulates turbo boosting 20 PSI. You should be able to see wastegate function on a stock setup. If not you'll have to increase the air pressure to your wastegate setting... Don't exceed ~35 PSI I don't want to hear about blown head gaskets from boost testing. As for the air if you got a regulated air supply you now can spray down the system with soapy water looking for bubbles. Check IAT & MAP sensor, manifold cover gasket, boots, intercooler, etc... If the air is bleeding through the engine shut off the air supply and rotate the engine a bit and try again. I don't want to hear about people getting tangled up in the fan as the air pressure twisted the crank around on them.

Hey JohnFak... I just bought the supplies for building a boost leak tester... I'll assemble mine tomorrow and get pics of it for ya...

Well when it rains it pours big time in Idaho... There isn't a heater in the western states according to Napa. The closest one is in New York state... Then I ask my sales rep to dig and find out if there is another vendor that can handle it. Sure enough he called the dealer and I was quoted $280 bucks for heater core from the Dodge $tealer... Well I told him to hang on to his notes and I'm going to do some research... So I call one of my vendors and check to see what he's got... well so far it looks like a waiting game and see who can get a heater core the quickest and cheapest... Hmmm... Now I'm stuck driving a gasser... I was just getting all excited because the weather was warming up and I was starting to pull good MPG in the Cummins and hit another rock wall... :banghead: (Ouch ouch ouch!)

Well I got started on the A/C... I started by pulling all the ngine side stuff out of the way... BHAF, tubing, heat shield... No comment about my silencer ring... (Shhh!) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1039 Drain some coolant off and pull the hoses loose to the heater. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1038 Broke out with the special release tool and pulled the A/C lines loose... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1037 Opps... I though I had gotten all the pressure off... Not much left but enough to scatter the dye pack around the firewall. Yes I'm using a black light ot show this. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1036 Pull the first screws of the kick plate and remove the kick panel. Then remove both bolts on each side. The 5 screws across the top, and there is 2 bolts and 2 nuts in the center. 5 speed you got to pull up the console. Also drop the steering column down on the seat which is 2 10mm nuts. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1035 This is where I quit for the moment... Whew! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1034 WARNING! The dash does have sharp edges and will cut you easy... Becareful! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1040 Then... When it rain it pours... My heater core is going south... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1041

Well it must of rattled loose and pop out just as I ramped up to 35 PSI (Bang!)... Passing a RV on a grade... But the funny part is I just got done wrenching the bolt back in tight and found out the bolt never hit the hood because of my crankcase vent was in the way... So looking at it closely it hit the pipe and tumble back against injector line #4 and laid there... Talk about lucky... Closest hardware store with metric bolts is 20 miles away now...

Boots are all in place... I was a assuming its a fender rip from contact because I can still build about 5-8 PSI... ---------- Post added at 11:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:04 AM ---------- Nevermind... Problem figured out... 1 of the manifold bolt blew out hit the hood and fell back into the injection lines and laid there... So I found my boost leak and will still build my boost test to verify I find and other air system faults now... So time to break out a 10mm socket and tighten a few things... Yeah I know Dodge makes and Cummins shakes it... Well the old girl is shaking out here fastners...

How offen do you change oil? Remember even the owners manual suggest every other oil change (15K miles). You might be changing too early...

It might be the APPS is pulling it down because of wear... I notice that the measurement is of the APPS and ECM hooked up so its possible that APPS is wore out a bit??? Margin of error in your DVM???

Yes it can...

Yeah I would check for codes first off... If the APPS is truely to blame it will throw a code. If the VP44 is to blame most likely there won't be any codes... But there is a host of different codess that can be toss by both.. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-codes.htm

I'm with you JL... I'm also running the RV275 and enjoying my last trip to Boise, ID at a comfy 22 MPG. With a Edge comp on 5x5 and RV275 it does wonderful pulls strong and more than enough HP/TQ for what I need. As for myself I'm keeping my tire on the smaller side to provent breakage of the driveline... I rather slip a tire than break a trans ot transfer case...

Well John... The boost tester is basically a 4" rubber sewer boot a small piece of 4" black ABS sewer pipe and a 1 4" plastic sewer cap. You glue the cap on the pipe. Trim the pipe to fit the boot without being overly long. Drill and tap the cap to fit a male air chuck. Now assemble and clamp onto your turbo. Pressurize the system with about 20 PSI and now look for the hissing air or soap the system and look for bubbles. Mine will look simular too... http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/500/medium/Boost_Tester.JPG

This power system been here for about 14 years now... Our summer power bill drops to about $40 bucks a month roughly. We use the power we produce first before the city. Since the load and demands for power have been reduced there is times look at the display when the house loads are so small that the solar and pelton wheel cover it... After going thorugh the flood of 96/97 here we had a just a generator and managed to keep all refrigeration and freezer going the whole 14 days we were trapped here. So that was the starting point of building the power system and taking advantage of the water, the long bright days, and do a little something for becoming Green!

Well gang... Mopar1973Man is down... I had a air system failure yesterday about Council, ID climbing the grade and passing a RV and heard. BOOM! Psssst.... As I let off the throttle the noise stopped. Get back into the throttle and boost might climb to 5-8 PSI, pyro going like a rocket, lots of black smoke and the noise returns... I stopped in New Meadows, ID for a moment to look and can't see the leak... so I stopped at the hardware store to pickup the stuff to build a boost tester. So I'll be fixing 2 leaks now A/C and boost...

Right on! Teach him the ways of diesels quickly in life...

That's my problem... My floor was oil and grease soak for years... I finally got sick and tried of it and sent many days of scrubing and wash the floor before I painted. I'm hoping it does good but if it doesn't I understand why... Don't say things like that being I'm rounding the corner to 40 years old and my eye doctor told me bi-focals will most likely be my next set of glasses...

Ahh man that would of been killer to see...

well even if it get a bit chipped up it much better than the dirt near black color it was...