Mopar1973Man

Well gang... I finally had enough of the random misfire that I was having. So this morning I broke down and got the shop clean up enough to get my truck in. So I did the typical disassembly and got the injectors out... This is the internals of a 24V injector (RV275) What I did was made a jig to hold the injector while you remove the nozzle nut. I used a allen wrench in a vise to make said jig. Then before you can remove the nut you need to remove your copper washer. This can be done with a putty knife and a hammer just lightly tap the putty knife and it should be able to pry it up enough to using a screwdriver. Now as I set my torque wrench for loosening and kept adding torque to the handle adjustment looking for the click and loosening of the nut. Well I found it at about 32 foot/pounds so I backed off to 30 foot/pounds and set the wrench. Loosen the nut. Now you need a clean area too. I set up a shop towel and a old ashtray. I filled the ashtray with Coleman fuel (Naphtha). So I would open up the injector carefully and place all the parts in the solvent to soak. Now in the pic above there is a shim that goes in the bottom below the spring. This shim might be stuck inside the body don't sweat it let in soak in the Coleman fuel for about 5 minutes and pick it up and it will fall out. Now that all the parts are soaking take a old scotch bright one thats been used a bit and rather soft. dip it in the solvent and light rub the nozzle clean of soot. Yes you may rub the tip but be gentle about it. Now look at the pintle (needle) look at the tip for damage or wear... Now check it for smooth sliding action in the nozzle. If it feels rough rub the pintle gently with the scotch bright pad and it will help it out... I was doing a mini-spray test too... Dip the nozzle in the solvent keeping the fuel hole up and holding the nozzle horizontal using a blow gun just a light burst of air will show you your spray pattern some what but also insures the nozzle tip is not plugged. Now just blow all the large parts clean and dry from the solvent. Make sure to blow the fuel passages clear. Once you happy with the clean up and every is clean now reassembly the injector exactly the way it came apart. Put your shim in the body take notice of which side was up. You'll also notice the shim has wear marks from the spring so be sure to put it back in the right way. This side down. Heck... Let me get more pics and I'll continue this write up...

Because where I'm at the winter dip down to -20*F around here and the AirDog has no fuel heater... So I kept the sotck housing for the fuel heater. Yes there is a filter in there to to protect the VP44 from inhaling jello (gelled fuel).

APPS reset here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm And 2 Cycle Oil here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm

Comments in blue... Here is a quick vid of the blend door... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=-h6ufg1-Dag And here is the wiring...

No black magic... There is the wiring for the blend door...

I'm not certain what would cause that yet... I'll study up though...

Normally charged A/C system will not cycle on and off if charged properly. Like mine runs solid never cycles and pumps out 45*F air from the center vents on a 95*F day... The only time you might see the cycling on and off is in the dead of winter and using DEF then the A/C is cycled because the freon reaches freezing point rather easy so it kicked off. The allows the system to condense moisture on the evaporator and dump it outside the vehicle this why DEF in the newer vehicles work better than old school...

Check error codes... P0121, P0122, P0123, P0222, or P0223 are all APPS sensor codes... Ah heck... Here is the error codes for both... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-codes.htm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm

Ok... My I say make a second set of cup holder for the passengers in the back. Then you need a tall bin in the center say about 3-6 tall at the most. But then leave a bit of flat sapce for like toss coins and other small articles so your not digging in the bin. Be kind of cool to have you invert hidden under the plate some where so if you do slam the brakes the cup doesn't sloosh on the inverter... Hmm... Another crazy thought is a rocker switch panel for accessories and such...

Ummm... I'm kept my stock filter housing and even got a filter in the stock housing... But I ran 1/2" line from tank to VP44... So now my fuel pressure is rock solid... (AirDog 150) Short vid... Cruising 55 and stomp on it to 70 MPH... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY

Give it a try and see if the boost is improved... Worth a try!

Got you covered... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm DTC P0215: FUEL INJECTION PUMP CONTROL CIRCUIT Description Information for when fuel injection pump control circuit is monitored and conditions required for DTC to be stored are not available from manufacturer. Possible causes are: defective fuel pump relay, defective Engine Control Module (ECM), or defective connectors or wiring.

Here the boost elbow I got from White01 A x10 mag of the bleed hole. Profile pic Another profile pic...

At least rebuilt you know the Trans was taken apart and full looked over and clean out internally. Where a use trans might be full of debris, might not ever had the fluid changed and part damaged inside that you won't know till driven under load... Just my

The problem with those is the fact they are extremely hard to adjust just a 1/16 of a turn can mean 10 PSI jump or loss... The one given to me I going to try and modify slightly to improve adjustability... What I'm using is a Edge elbow now and I can hit 35 PSI just about every time...

Once long ago my truck looked like that with only 24 miles on the odometer... But after 171K miles and one tree hitting the truck she not a well perfect condition... But I do have to admit they are doing a awesome job on the paint... The part I like about my truck now its got a few paint chips, a few small dings, and still shines up awesome but you can still work with it without total panic...

Go for it... At the worse that will happen is you'll learn something...

Well that's how you learn from it... But yeap most say its not worth it... But a winning combo that with get the smoke to roll is a set of RV275 injectors and a Edge Comp on 5x5. I've got to roll into the throttle really light to keep my smoke down. But once I clear 5-10 PSI I can roll into the throttle hard and heavy. But now from a dead stop and row out the gears when I hit 3rd gear and drop the hammer you better not be near me... I'll change your paint job to flat black really quick!!

Holy cow... You didn't make it to 100K but darn close there Dorkweed... Do you have a pic of the Blackstone report? I'm really curious about the results after 84K miles!

That right there is the driving force that keep me going here... Thnk you Russ those kind words make the world of difference!

Comments in blue... ---------- Post added at 04:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:27 PM ---------- Well I double checked my book... It shows the cruise for the Gasoline system which use the vacuum motor setup... But the steering wheel controls are the same... It just the wires don't go to a vacuum motor but the PCM is wired to APPS...

Ummm... Do you remember the error code number again? I know I scanned it once but I need the code number again I can look it up in my books...

Hmmm... I got a set of white spoke rims I might have to clean up and shoot black and them mount my Coopers on...

Black is constant vacuum...

Reason why is my stock rims are getting rather corred around the edges from wheel weights being put on and taken off. It has got a couple of small corroded spots on the rims... Sure I know "Diesel" doesn't help it either but hiking his leg and watering my tires in the morning...