Mopar1973Man

I'm NOT doing oil analysis so there is no way for me to double check the condition of the oil (Very Important) But the thing I really think is quite important about this is... That this proves that Petroleum base engine oil are just as good as Synthetics. They can go just as far. Being that Dorkweek is using cheap SuperTech Unverisal Diesel Engine Oil (PennzOil) and made nearly 100K miles with just a bypass filter throws new light on the whole Synthetic Oil race. It more of question now is it worth pay big money on a Synthetic oil when a standard old Petroluem based oil will do just as good?

I was curious about the motorguard so I did a quick look for ol' Ralph... Sometimes you got to add the e xtra 2 more cents to the pile and little more effort to learn something new...

Funny how a phone book can answer a bunch... But at least now you know there is a Cummins dealer now near you...

well I' done some digging around for Ralph Wood and MotorGuard... What I found is he left the air in about 2008 roughly but was a very knowledgeable guy when it came to oil filters and filtration. But the reason I found that he quite making was that company that was building the filter didn't want him modifing the filter to be used in oil applications any longer so basically that shut him down. Then he was having health issues on top of that too... But yes the MotorGuard is just as good as Frantz design is basically the same too..

Just to make sure you cover up the the fuel line ends so no debris or water gets into the old system... Other than that it becomes useless if its plugged with mud or pumping debris...

Hmmm... I can't say I've got a cheapy in now... ($800 bucks worth of SBC)... But if you plan on stock operation and don't plan on adding a bunch of mods then yes a stock clutch is fine... If you want to save a few bucks get the friction plate, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing. Then have you flywheel surfaced in a shop...

Running 1/2" line and never see much more that 1 PSI drop for typical cruising but 2 PSI at WOT... Stock line is 6mm (0.236) 3/8 line (0.375) [Gain of 0.139] 1/2 line (0.500) [Gain of 0.264] Like in fire fightig... Try to fight a housing fire with a 3/4" garden hose and lose... Or attack that fire with a 2 1/2" fire hose and win the battle!

Thanks guys for the dig on the links... (ISX and W&F) But I'll say this... The Dodge dealer says its 8 hours to replace a VP44... My Mitchell books say 6 hours... But I did my first VP44 on a customers truck in just under 4 hours... Simple to do... My static page is update with a few tricks... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-replace.htm

I was hoping to see CajFlynn show up and post his mileage of 820K miles... Ugh!

Shoot you should of got pics of that...:banghead:

Contact pureflow directly and ask them... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm

My first injection pump failed at 50K miles... My second pump is still going at 166K miles with no signs of failure...

ISX I heard that there is a trick with using lugs nuts to pull them out... Basically find a lug nut with the same thread and screw it down and it will pull the injector out... I never tried it but is it possible?

Well here really soon I'll be picking up the stuff to do the A/C evaporator and I'll get the camera out and document as usual. I better too... Because once it done I'm not planning on pulling it out again for another good 10-15 years...

Here is a Cummins dealer near you... http://yellowpages.superpages.com/listings.jsp?CS=L&MCBP=true&search=Find+It&SRC=&STYPE=S&SCS=&channelId=&sessionId=&C=Cummins&L=Oconomowoc+WI&x=0&y=0

Not really from what i understand... Don't get me wrong they will filter the debris out but do a poor job for water separation... My that why FASS and AirDog only work with Fleetguard filters too (Stratapore)

Another good compare to give... Yesterday I was going to class in Cambridge Idaho about 90 miles from me. Ok. I started out with a cold truck and headed out the current temp here was 40*F but by the time I climbed to New Meadows, ID it was 22*F and the IAT was showing almost 60*F (floating 58-59). But would you believe it my MPG on the SGII was down to 13 MPG in 20 miles of travel... By the time I got to my class 90 miles away I barely got 16 MPG. This with conservative driving too (55-60 MPH). Now The class is over the temp outside climbed to 65*F and was nice out with a mild temps in Cambridge ID. Now on the way home I kicked it up to speed limit (65 MPH) after completely warming up the engine. But now my IAT was 105*F and the outside temp was holding 63-66*F most of the trip... By the time I got home I pulled 20.5 MPG. Air temp in the manifold is important...

Did you install the washer under the pivot ball stud (if it came with it)? You hydraulics might be wore out giving you problems getting the clutch depressed completely...

Typical fleetguard fuel filters are about $12 bucks at a Cummins dealer or shop. Like where i'm at in Idaho there is lots of little Mom & Pop fuel stations that sell diesel fuel but it might sit there for months if not years (Ekkk) Then some store the fuel above ground tank with no weather cover from snow. After seeing my WIF light once... I relized I got to stick to the big name brand fuels in the area and ask who sell the most volume. Yes I actually asked the store owners how much volume they sold... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=931 Take notice on the box it says Stratapore this is Fleetguard only function. Generic filters like Wix and Napa are just paper filter that don't separate water... But the Fleetguard filters do... (at least what the Cummins dealer was explaining to me).

Here is a manifold for a 3rd Gen I think will do more good... Comes from... http://www.hellmannperformance.com/welcome.html Just found this gem...BLING!

Sorry... Long day and did go back to read the initial post... So what is you pressure now?

Fuel pressure normally tells the full story for you... Like mine is 17.5 @ idle and no lower than 15 @ WOT. Now with my old Carter pump typically I saw 14 @ idle and 12 @ WOT. Once if fell to 11 at WOT it was time to change... Being the factory lower limit is 10 PSI... Stock carter lasted about 9 months to 1 year if you lucky... So get a fuel pressure gauge, change your filter, and check for air leaks...

This is mine... http://www.wefilterit.com/ I change mine every 5K miles with another roll of TP (Kirkland brand or Scott's brand) Then change oil evry 10K miles...

Simular case... I'm not exactly right up against the tank either but hidden behind the transfer case so the skid plate protect the filters and the pump is shielded from flying debris... If I crack the fuel line at the pump inlet I get fuel flow siphoning effect is really good...

I'm going to use that write for sure... Sounds simple enough... Thanks!