Mopar1973Man

I purchased a tapped banjo bolt from Geno's Garage for the fuel pressure gauge... (Staock system) Since you got the older style filter housing you can use the port on top. (Inner most port sohuld be to VP44). Then yes you need a needle valve so you going right ans the braided line to the gauge is fine for under dash but A-pillar it going to be a really PITA. If all the fittings are 1/8" NPT then yes...

I love it so far... Worth it...

There was actually 2 styles of VP44... 98.5 to 99 was a 215 HP truck... Then there was a SO (standard Output 235/460) then HO (High output 245/505) SO typically were 5 speeds and Automatics and the HO was the 6 Speed trans...

Yeah ISX is cheating and pulling my photoshop pic... But I agree I would keep it in the green... :thumbsup:

That's simple just a calibation away... I need to get the funds together... But the SG II can be calibrated for this were the stock overhead if FIXED...

Personally I prefer a fuel pressure between 14-17 PSI as a normal. Reason being is above 14 PSI now the overflow valve is opened and excessive fuel is now flowing from theVP44 pump. This increase volume flow around the VP44 thus cooling it greatly. But as for maximum pressure documented by Bosch there is none as far as I can find. But as for safe and relible pressure I would hold a span of 10-20 with a normal of 15-17 PSI. Now there is a few pioneers out there with 12V mechanical fuel pump pushing 35-45 PSI into a VP44... But there is no long term results on this yet. So you got some at one extreme saying 5 PSI is fine... Then at the other end of the spectrum there another group saying extremely high pressure is good. I use common sense at this point that ther overflow valve is designed for 14 PSi to open. so if you want to increase cooling ability you got to get just enough pressure to open and hold open the overflow valve to increase fuel flow around the VP44. So going to full extremes and pump beyond 20 PSI is a waste and below 10 PSI and the valve is shut and most times out of ten cant meet the requirements of VP44 at WOT...

So the truth comes out now... My comments are in blue...

Well here is simple data given from my ScanGauge II for comsumption rate... On my stock truck I remember seeing 18-20 GPH consumption rate with mt RV275 and Edge Comp on 5x5 I'm seeing 30 or so now... 20 GPH Demand / 40 GPH supply = 50% consumption rate (50% left ofr cooling lubing) 20 GPH Demand / 30% Requirement = 66.6 GPH needed to meet Bosch 30 GPH Demand / 40 GPH supply = 75% consumption rate (25% left fo cooling/lubing) 30 GPH Demand / 30% Requirement = 100 GPH needed to meet Bosch So for stock setup you would need at least 66.6 GPH to meet the bosch requirement... Since the closest pump to that is the FASS 95... Once again it proves that Dodge cut corners on the fuel system... So now with my AD 150... 30 GPH Demand / (AirDog) 150 GPH supply = 20% consumption rate (80% left fo cooling/lubing) Remember this is simple math figuring it out but real world loading and demands is way different...

I would contact a radiator shop and ask them what they use to clean out a block and radiator... Like I said I've used nothing more that standard Prestone and creek water to flush my system. I'm coming do for my next flush I'll grab pics again... I'm sure its going t o look fine again...

Yeap... The fact is Bosch requirements is 70% to be returned and 30% to be burned. So if the supply is under rate the the cooling and lubing is cut to keep the engine going...

Well so far I'm pleased with the injectors. I've seen to have a very slight miss that is very very mild and rare to occur. But so far I'm enjoying the +2 MPG increase to the fuel mileage. I'm now able to touch 21 MPG with winterized fuel in Idaho... Never done that before... But I got to admit you must be careful with the new found power that comes with the injectors. On wet or icy pavement things can horribly wrong quick.

Hmmm... In the bed of my truck is 7 gallons of drinking water and 2 MRE's under the back seat... After being with fire dept this long I know a full MRE is a hell of a meal... Even comes with its own heater to heat the meal... coffee, candy, snack, matches, main meal, even a mini bottle of tobasco... :ahh:

You do have a point there... :bang: But still even with good water (distilled and coolant) and you leave the coolant in too long you will end up with the same problem in time... But I've been changing every 30K miles... Here is mine at 100K miles and 5 years...

I'm currious if you got a result on the error codes? :confused:

Becareful Gasser... Your right the first time... The wastegate if rusted shut so the P0234 code is present becase the boost exceeded limits. Washing the MAP sensor isn't going to to correct this problem. But full removal of the wastegate motor and working the watesgate free will correct this problem. P0234 code means the MAP sensor is working properly because it sensed over boost condition. Yeap Gasser is right about the rest of the codes... But I would suggest you get some gauges at least ofr your truck so you can monitor Pyrometer, boost, and fuel pressure.

Depends on what you tagged the gauge for? You must enter AVG for the gauge letters... So if you tagged the gauge AAA thats what it will be till you change it...

Funny... I've been using tap water so far for the life of the truck and not even had a bit of rust or anything at 5 years and 100K some odd miles... Even took pics... I'm on well water but normally load with irragation water (creek water)... Crazy maybe... But Zero build up, Zero failure yet...

It so I would use a live data tool like ScanGauge II to verify the IAT temps. Grid heater are not enabled till about 60-65*F and colder. So getting a live data tool and checking would tell you a bunch...

Problem with it its only a 40 GPH pump compared to AirDog, Raptor, or Full FASS at 100/150 GPH. Then by the time you add the relocation kit to it you got a price very very close to a Raptor but still the Raptor is lifetime warranty and comes with relocation and doesn't require ording from a second supplier for parts. so comparing... FASS DDRP to Raptor you end up paying just as much for a limited warranty, sub standard pump, that still barely meets the requires of ONLY a stock truck... So with a Raptor it good for at least 500 HP of toys...

Be aware the only reason for a heater core, oil cooler or radiator leakage is from lack of coolant changes. Dodge recommends that you change every 30K miles. Now from a few posts I've been informed that the oil coolers are a dealer only item and costing upwards of about $600 bucks... :shocked:

OMG! Guys... I would check codes just for the starts of things...

Just to verify you can't have 3 cylinder high idle with the pulse correct? :confused:

IAT sensor controls the grid heater you can test it by reading error codes and by using a live data tool like a ScanGauge II. 99% of the time the IAT is just fine but the relays are known to fail... Check the to light gauge wires for voltage and then check them back at the ECM for voltage too...

Like myself I'm doing work here in the idaho valley for $65 a hour. Reasonable price...

My favorite scanner been a ScanGauge II nice little tool for scaning error codes and showing live data from the computers...