Mopar1973Man

Yeah but limits selection of replacement turbos being there is very few than can accept a turbo mount exhaust brake.

The only thing I'll suggest is stepping up to the Morimoto HID's. I did the D2S lens which cover everything in even light compared ot halogen or LEDs in stock housing that tend to do a poor pattern on the light. Then change the turn signal bulbs over to switch back LEDs and now your designed like modern vehicles with halo lights or daylight driving lights. I will say Morimoto D2S are expensive BUT worth every single penny for sure.

Nice job doing home build plumbing for that exhaust. It would be super cool to have all that finalized and then chromed. Then throw a heat shield on the pipe that is chromed too.

Personally... I would upgrade control arms so the bottom arm are adjustable to gain your caster back. Then I would do a adjustable track bar to gain your thrust angle back. Got to remember there is some of us that don't get death wobble or have front end issues that require these mods. This just points out there is a geometry issue that has be created by customization. I'm completely stock front end. Never had death wobble. Still stock tie rod setup, still stock track bar, still stock steering (blue top quick ratio). Consider what you've changed you'll find your issue. Making more and more changes on top of a problem you will chase your tail trying to fix. 435k miles still rolling...

+150 HP I can lay my foot WOT and never reach 1,200°F. I've ran all the way to Arizonia in summer temps and never got over 1,200°F climbing grades with my 31 foot RV. Proper timing, proper gear makes a huge difference even MPG wise. Average 65 MPH is about 550°F EGTs. Oh skip Cummins OEM head gaskets, there is much better out there. After having one delaminate in under 1,000 miles.

Like I'm wanting to modify my setup. I'm going to build a locking dog house for my generator so it remains outside. My inverter had an auto start feature so if power goes out it can start either gas or diesel generator. Just wire up the auto start feature so when house loads are high enough it just starts on it own. No setup like now, roll it out the man door start it up and plug in. I get the natural gas prime problem I've got the same thing in my RV nothing works till the stove burns a bit.

Just my combo puts me close to 500 HP. Quadzilla adrenaline, DAP +150 HP injectors (7x0.010) , HX35/40 hybrid turbo. The best part was breaking my old highmark of 27.2 MPG to 28.04 MPG.

I would better to change the full turbo and exhaust brake reducing more restriction. Get away from the exhaust brake limitations of the turbos that only fit my set up.

Yeah but need to replace the exhaust brake because I have to keep the stock turbine housing. So it close to 2500 dollar upgrade needed.

I'll be the first to admit reaching 50 PSI of boost on a 12 cm2 housing is bad and blew my head gasket. On top running 29 degrees @ 3k. Even with studs I'm limited to 35 PSI now till I can get a bigger turbo and a in line exhaust brake. But the side effect of my setup is 28.04 Highmark MPG. 425 miles on a half tank.

Sorry to hear anyone have a loss. @dripley we are all here if you need a shoulder.

I would but If I need support ill never get it. I've been banned on Smarty side. Not to mention the cost is just out of hand.

Well there is much more to it. You can change the torque number just by changing tires. So final ratio will impact the final HP/TQ. Then there is rotational mass less rotational mass the quicker to accelerate and more torque is passed to the tires. For every one pound of rotational mass you remove that is like taking 8 pounds off the frame. This is why true racing rear slicks are super light. Then I can dive into engine functions like timing. Currently I've got a tune capable of 28 MPG. My empty EGTs are like 500 to 550F at 65 MPH. So less drag and proper gearing setup you can get efficiency up which means you not wasting energy in heat. Excess heat is wasted power. This includes axles, transmission, engine, etc.

Why I love BHAF. Gets dirty toss it get a fresh filter. All these reusable filters I don't trust at all. I've seen plenty of dusted engines.

DVM will work on DC Volts. Black probe to ground Red probe to the two pin in the OBDII plug. IIRC it's pins 2 and 11. Check in the article for CCD.

CCD network issue. P1698 and/or P1694. P1694 is the ECM is not able to listen or talk on the network. P1698 is the PCM is not able to listen or talk on the network. Since it's the ECM you'll have to check few connections. The screw down connector in the PDC. Then the two connectors on the cowl near the fuel filter. You might have to ohm out the CCD network from end to end. Also you can check the CCD voltage too. It should be 2.49 volts and 2.51 volt after all the modules stop talking this can be done in the OBDII port.

??? Weird... I thought it was part of the package? The Edge boost elbow is well rather good and bad. It will provide boost to about 35 PSI but not adjustable. The cheap adjustable brass elbows don't work too great either very hard to get the right pressure limit barely twist 1/16 a turn could be 10 PSI difference. Now some here did a wastegate spring and adjust spring pressure till the drive pressure blows the waste gate open. A few of us found adjustable wastegate regulators that is hook in the waste pressure hose. this is not what I got but I got a China made that was $7 or so. The one below is about GBP 12.95 Approximately US $17.67.

Need to get your 65 MPH up around 2k RPM to catch me. Like 245/70 R17 would match me ratio wise.

Same tank now at 400 miles at half tank. I'm in Caldwell ID. I've got enough fuel even to drive back home. Yeah I've got the tune dialed in.

You would have to change the timing slightly maybe? Being pop pressure is low and timing is more advance than stock 310 bar. Rest of it should work good. Just for info this is the 3rd time I'm doing 250 miles on a 1/4 tank. Still very efficient pyro is much lower than level ZERO.

Most likely an open circuit since the other lights are working. Start with a test light.

https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/ As far as visually the skies have been clear the last few days. Rained pretty good yesterday I went out with a friend to help gather lodge pole for his daughter to build a bunk bed. Then hauled to McCall with him for to deliver 3 cords of firewood in his 1994 Dodge Cummins (+140 HP injectors). Then came back home for a bit and had dinner with him as well last night. But here at my place its wet for sure and nothing will burn.

I took a brake light switch apart one time to see the locking part of the pin and it so SIMPLE design. The bad part was getting all back together. Once I did it worked flawless. The second one I pull it out and carefully pried on the pin till it clicked twice and the n re-installed and that truck the brake light were stuck on. After the two clicks outward it was off.

@Sycostang67 He came and gone already I did the +100 HP injectors with new connector tubes, and then did the ARP studs for him. The only thing I ran out of time for was doing the W-T ground wire mod but next time I head south I hook up and do the W-T ground wire mod.

Its going to be the same wire colors as the fender wires and just leaves the tailgate and heads under the bed to hand the tailgate 3 lights. Same Black/Yellow leads.