Mopar1973Man

2001 key trick only reads the PCM. Hence why you see P1693 code. The error is on the ECM. 2002 model year is the only year the reports both ECM and PCM on a key trick.

Let's say there has not been enough testing for me to jump in line for the vaccine. I've already seen one doctor get the vaccine and still got COVID.

My Timbo APPS is quite old and been going for over 250k miles. APPS failure is typically dead pedal and or P0121, P0122 or P0123 codes. This can be seen with a live data tool as TPS signal goes to ZERO or 100% even thought your not actually in that position of the throttle. VP44 typically will dead pedal or limited pedal without setting any error codes. This is because the PSG is not translating the data from the ECM properly. Only way to test this is replace the VP44.

Very true... not to mention the main side effect of death. I've seen another report the chances of death is higher after you been vaccinated. A good friend has COVID right now but after he's cleared the infection his antibodies will be much better than any vaccine. His wife already kicked it.

https://washingtonnewsday.com/news/covid-19-kills-113-fully-vaccinated-oregon-residents-13166-new-cases-are-reported/ Since January, at least 113 Oregonians who were completely vaccinated have died of COVID-19. At least 63 of the deaths affected adults above the age of 80. There were 29 cases involving persons aged 70 to 79, 15 cases involving people aged 60 to 69, three cases involving people aged 50 to 59, and three cases involving residents aged 40 to 49. Ok so does it actually work? I would say no. If a side effect of death because the vaccine doesn't protect you.

More and more that I study Cummins parts the more I'm finding out Cummins doesn't make anything, top it off most parts are produced by 3rd party manufactures. Like thermostats made by Mr. Gasket/Holley then Cummins head gaskets produced by BLK. @JAG1is correct that Timbo's APPS is a high quality part not made by Cummins but completely electronic free and completely mechanical in design. Also be aware of cheap China knock offs there is several that look like a Cummins part but price is super low.

Be aware if you lose 1 brush in the starter it will still turn over and start on a primed system. Now try to reprime a system with the same starter is pretty tough. Just one brush will drop the starter to 50% power. Not as fast of a spin. Been here done that.

I've never seen anyone have to beat a firewall. Are you sure you have the right pipe?

I've seen truck where there is fuel already weeping out of 1, 3, and 4 and not start it not a prime issue but starter speed issue typically.

Harbor freight you can get o ring sets for super cheap. Ive got a set in the service truck (Thor).

I won't be buy a Cummins head gasket again. There is many other brands that could be way better.

Still better to have the ECM sent in and rebuilt for the lift pump circuit.

Another 39*F morning again. Man this makes me wait longer to head up into the high country for work. If its only 39*F hereat 2,800 feet, that makes it colder up in McCall at 5,200 feet. Being I'm working outside I'll wait a bit longer.

I've had a shop just take too much off a set of Honda Goldwing head and now the motorcycle no longer runs cool and over heats (too high of compression).

Even just changing the steering box there is a slight offset in my truck I've got to adjust. Same thing...

Now we are going into the freezer. This morning is mere 39*F and it won't be long before winter-like weather is coming soon. Only be a high of 80*F.

Red is the ignition power from I think fuse #9 in the cab. If your having trouble identifying colors and placement let me know.

I'm curious where did you get your rebuild kit and how much? Not that I've got one to fix right now but curious for information value.

Yeah there is always just a bit of difference in length from one bar to the next. I've always had to adjust a bit one way or the other.

Too keep all rebuilders honest. Make sure to make a identifying mark on the pump (make a domino mark, paint marker, etc. Then make photos of all the numbers and the pump itself. Then when they make a claim to void the warranty. Then tell them to send you a picture back of the pump. If it does not match your numbers, ID mark, etc. then you know they are trying to cheat. This method has help a few beat the void warranty claim problems.

Like I said not even a full amp. If the batteries are like 7 years old, full charge I can run all night and still be 12.1 to 12.2 in the morning. Im running dual 12V now but I'm planning on upgrading to dual 6V batteries. Sad to say my last trip home I must of rubbed the radio knob as I was packing out and left it on. The the RV was not plugged in so yesterday found out they where ZERO volts dead. Plugged it in to charge but with the age I think they are done.

Whole problem here is... Either the hacker managed to inject code to direct the user to go elsewhere this requires a website with poor security to be able to inject code. The other way is to make a look alike website with close to matching URLs to fool you. Example be like... amazon.com -> amazon2.com Basically a look alike site but the url might be slightly different. This is common I get emails from a hacker site trying to bill me for services but when you click the link it not the same website. In my case it's... sendgrid.com -> sendgrid.com.zzz (random tail)

120 VAC... no DC function.

All of Idaho's river gages. https://waterdata.usgs.gov/id/nwis/current/?type=flow Here is the river across the road. https://waterdata.usgs.gov/id/nwis/uv/?site_no=13316500&PARAmeter_cd=00065,00060,00010 I'm about a 100 CFS (Cubic Feet per Second) low right now. River looks like a creek.