Mopar1973Man

Sound like a upgrade is in your future...

Hence why I suggested to do a pin to pin test to absolutely find which line is actually causing the error and fault. Add one more test being between ground and the pins this will verify none of the wires are shorted to ground which is rare but does happen. Both plugs have to be disconnected.

Problem. Doesn't create any heat. 6 CYL high idle doesn't generate much more heat. Now when you use 3 CYL mode or even 6 CYL mode and exhaust brake different story now you have loaded the engine and it does warm up much faster. Even my truck is quick to warm up when the EGT's floating 600 to 800*F. Compared to 250 to 300*F which does take forever. If you use @JAG1 broom stick idea now the high idle there but you now cancelled the exhaust brake warm up feature.

Zep or the HDX product work excellent for wheel stripping off all the brake dust on wheels. On oily or leaking oil mess it work good too just makes it rinse away. With greasy and grimy it might a few passes and some soaking time to get nasty stuff off. Personally I like power washing first it really does save my skin a lot of abuse of scrubbing nightly. Just a few warnings... Do NOT leaving on any aluminum for very long it will blacken aluminum in a short time Do NOT spray on the gear case tag it can erase that plate pretty quickly. Do NOT spray oven cleaner on aluminum as well it will blacken just the same. Another quick and cheap way to clean too.

Me. If I was face with that I would test from pin to pin between the MAP sensor plug and the ECM plug. @dripleyhas dealt with all kinds of mystery problems around the MAP sensor plug and wiring. There is a shared sensor ground for the MAP sensor which is where Dripley found his problem the ground was bad.

I'm also running the DAP +150 HP injector (7 x 0.010) @ 320 bar. I'm running a HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12). Using my current tune I'm running its completely smoke free but seriously powerful enough you really have to dial back the power (Level 2 or 3) in the winter just to keep the tires with good traction. Yup typical as injectors wear the pop pressure fails and the sprayed fuel is with bigger droplets and injected too early since its easier to hit 260 to 280 bar vs 310 bar. Yes, the injection events was early and big droplet hence the white smoke in the mornings. This why with the new injectors your back up to a stockish pop pressure and atomizing much better. Just like myself I'm coming to a end even on my injectors I'm half way through the life of my injectors and soon I'll be replacing again. The 320 bar has really enhanced the life span for sure it used to idle at 13% engine load now I'm down to mere 6% engine load warm. Check out all the tunes there you might find another that fits your needs. I'll be uploading more in the spring time too.

Still in all the quiet power is always welcome being I've been living off a battery power house for 24 years now. I can say that for sure nothing wrong with good old lead acid batteries. After killing my first set at about 12 to 13 years I learn never ignore the electrolyte level. I ran at least 1 cell on every battery low enough to expose some of the plate material and ruined the batteries in a short order. It really does help to have exact charging voltages and how to properly charge them. What is the max discharge voltage allowed etc. All these values are now programmed into the Inverter and it continues to charge and discharge those batteries daily. Solar wise those are eight 50 watt panels. Eventually I would like to upgrade them to a bigger set of 1,500 watts or more. That would do so much better in the winter time with the short amount of daylight. Still in all even the way I built the system its still a great fall back power source. Back to the batteries... The simple fact I can equalize charge and pull the sulphation back into the plates and change it back to lead is priceless. This is something a AGM battery can't do. Being that both AGM and Lithium batteries are sealed they can never be equalize charged. Being I've got lead acid batteries in the truck I can simple just pull the batteries and hook them up to the solar power bank and equalize them too as part of the solar bank. Hence my long life span on my truck batteries too. My last set I will admit I ran dead several times to 0.00 Volts (Lights left on in the cab) I mean dead so it shorten the last set to about 8 years and quit. I'm now on my 2nd set of Walmart batteries.

I "had" a 1951 Willys that I use to run around in started having way too much issues with the axles and suspension and gave up and sold it. I was 4.88 gearing as well with 31 inch tires wasn't too bad at 65 MPH I was right near 4k RPM on the Chevy V8 I had under the hood. Then with the Turbo 350 trans behind it.

Correct. There is no way to shut it off. It's enabled by the Smarty without a way to disable. This is the way I got my high idle. I barrowed Bob Wagner's Smary and ran a few tunes found out I don't like it at all. In 24 hours sent it back. Still to this day it is enabled.

I paid $4,800.00 for eight 6V batteries. These are not the small one each battery is roughly 125 pounds.

Basically in a nutshell the PCM turns on both green and blue wires when tach signal is sensed. It might be still a defective PCM yet... if the PCM isn't getting this signal then it won't charge.

Ok. Just checking...

I typically use the Zep or HDX brand degreasers. Being acid based it works great on wheels and brake dust. Cut thick grease typically in one or two passes of degreaser being sprayed on. Slightly warm engine helps too. Then if you have the means of using warm water in the power washer really helps a bunch. Like at my other shop I've got access to Hotsy. At home I've got washer connection in the shop and make a fake Hotsy with my power washer. Either way the warmth will help peel the remaining grease and oil off.

Two strongest I've found is "Home Depot Industrial Degreaser" and Common Household Oven Cleaner both are acid based so do leave on aluminum parts it will blacken them. Don't get on your skin it will burn up for sure. I typically use them at 100% strength and my soak time is limited to just at the tops of 1 to 2 minutes or less. Crud... HDX brand is no longer sold but the Zep brand is... Still works just the same. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-Gal-Fast-505-Degreaser-ZU505128/202790160

Exactly.

I only use a small harbor freight box cutter. Take your time and slowly work the knife through the layers. Take your time and you'll get it opened up so you can get the wires exposed. I've done like a dozen of these mods now about an hour job to do.

You can spray them off just keep your wander back at least 1 foot from modules. Never had one problem with power washing vehicle ever. Most of the time I look under the hood before rolling in the shop if the truck is greasy or super dirty it will get a full power wash job before starting. Why work on a vehicle with dried mud falling in your eyes or having to reach down into the engine bay and get greasy all the way up past your elbows? Why? Heck I power wash and clean them up that way I don't have to wash for hours get the greasy mess off me and the customers always love to see a clean engine afterwards. Just don't put the spray nozzle again any connectors other than that you'll open up the connection to blow dry the connector and add di-electric grease.

Out here it would be best to force oil down the jacket being amount of salt on the roads will eat the cables and graphite is not going to protect from rusting.

I power wash engine all the time it will not hurt anything... Just let the engine cool down below 140*F before starting. You can spray down everything just don't spray directly at plugs or connectors. Everything can get a bath.

Still using standard old lead acid batteries. Still very capable of equalize charging. Heck, the house batteries here are over 10 years old and still going. There is eight 6V batteries tied in 24V bank of 2 banks of batteries. I've had this system since 1997 that's 24 years of service. I've also only replaced ONE set of batteries. Its no different that a RV. I'm self sustaining power system just the house doesn't roll on axles bnut fix to the ground. Just a bigger system and supplies 30A at 120VAC. (4,000 watt inverter). As for the batteries I always tend to sway away from AGM or Lithium batteries because of the sealed nature. You have to remember my batteries are in service 24 hours a day and 7 days a week. Not like a RV that you park and not live in daily. I still to this day do equalize charging and top of my electrolytes. Being my batter to replace all eight is roughly 4,800 to 5,200 dollars on today market. I've got 820 amp hours worth of batteries at 24 Volts. This system runs 24 hours and 7 days a week. Constantly charging and discharging supplying the house with power daily. These battery are TRUE deep cycle batteries designed for home power centers. For those that are "weekend warriors" can't compare usage being this system NEVER shuts down. This system power everything in the house except - heat pump & A/C, drier, stove and oven. Loads are too big for my small 4kW inverter. This system has been running for 24 years now powering my house daily! Matter of fact just last week I just topped off with distilled water and ran a 2 hour equalize charge and she is ready for the next month of power outages and burn outs. Average power outage here is 12 to 24 hours. Longest was 17 days. So for battery supplied RV or homes I do have this all dialed in...

Not really. You would have to be terminate the circuit with the same bias voltage too. So my thought is to pull the PCM and have it bench tested by a rebuilder. Very possible the same thing happen to you as it did to me... If the alternator fails and shorts out the blue wire to ground because of mechanical failure. The PCM is on a 20A fuse but the circuit board will not support the 20A fuse so it burns up the tracers inside the PCM. Hence why after having my bnech tested I found my printed circuit board was burned through completely. Required a full replacement of the PCM. To protect this from happening again I added a fuse in the blue wire off the PCM and put only a 5A fuse on that blue wire so it will not burn up the PCM again. If the circuit is burned then yes no matter the data you switch transistor is burned up. Here is how I stopped the problem...

In my case around 350k miles I had my head curl some and the head gasket started to leak near the rear of the head on the passenger side of the block.

I'm still going on my DAP pump yet no issues...

None. Never had one.

Like one our members @flagmanruss is a MS patient as well. I'm not sure if he's still with us but last I knew he wasn't going to hot.