Mopar1973Man

Anytime I do a heater core it always gets flushed out and new coolant. Rather dumb to put the old stuff back and still all the debris in the block to just fill the heater core up with debris. Like doing a engine rebuild and putting the old oil back in. Doesn't make any sense... Coolant system should of been flushed before even installing. So now when your done you just fill with fresh coolant and water and your done.

Actually it was a very funny evening. The first time I've been dressed up for Halloween in like 35 years. Stopped by Eileen daughter place hung out for a bit with her friends then went on to Kuna ID where Eileen best friend and her friends got together. Then started playing "Cards Against Humanity". Now things got stupida and crazy. People just laughing till it hurt. Finally got back to the motel at around 1am. I've got a photo on my phone showing the time change. Two 1:30am's... Yeah I had a good time and got a weekend off... Now I'm ready for the next week... But not really...

just like @IBMobile to spit that out...

I'm talking about PenzOil Syncromesh. It does not meet the synthetic spec.

Might need replacement if it wasn't flushed before installing. Now all the crude is jammed it the tubes.

Eileen and I got it to costume and enjoyed a Halloween party in Kuna ID last night... Hope you all enjoyed your evening...

Give me some time ill figure out a way to explain better.

Both Nv4500 and NV5600 should be using synthetic fluids. Be aware syndromes is not synthetic. Good reason why NV5600 has bearing issues.

Typically 150 to 160°F out of my center vents. The biggest thing is keeping coolant flushed and changed well before 100k miles.

Myself.. I opted for the ISSPro EV2 gauges. They are electronic and USB programmable. Since the sensors are all under the hood there is no worry about tubing breaking or leaking in the cab. I had a bracket built for the sensors being mounted on the fender protecting the fuel pressure sensor from water hammer damage. Nice low pressure warning light. Now you don't even have to look at the gauges I know what is wrong just by level the red dot is in my corner of my eye. Boost is set for 45 PSI warning light, fuel pressure is set for 13 PSI, Pyrometer is set for 1,200*F, and my trans temp is set for 225*F. There is optional relay function too so if you got a automatic you could use the trans temp gauge to turn on a aux fan.

Be aware there is vendors that sell VP44 without actually being fully rebuilt and bench tested on a Bosch 815 test stand. If so during the 3 hours its ran on the bench it would fail the test for timing and WILL NOT flash the PSG. Hence why I checked out who does build pumps correctly.

Problem is you need a good amount of low end retard to spool the turbo. This is done by retarding the timing more flame and expanding gases are sent to the turbo and get it spooled up. Now when your spooled up and get the boost building now you can switch over to high timing to burn the fuel more complete. This now brings the flame front more down the cylinder wall if you over advance. Funny part is you really do see the engine oil temp jumps. The other thing is don't drop the wire tap in too low. Like I'm running 15 PSI before wire tap jumps in. Totally smokeless being the turbo is spooled good, CANBus is starting to rise to its end (my tune stops at 125% on CANBus), once the wiretap jumps in the tires are really starting to want to spin.

P0216? if so the VP44 is done. The timing piston is physically jammed in the pump and can't get the desired timing in the allotted time. Smart S03 is NOT the cause. 4 ways to kill a VP44... Low fuel pressure (14 to 20 PSI optimal) High AC noise (Less than 0.05 volts optimal) Poor Filtration Poor Lubricity (Greater than 420 HFRR lubricity score) Your most likely a P0216 code and that is typically cause by low lubricity since the piston is most likely be galled up and stuck hence the code. So this why I've done the 2 cycle oil study years ago.

I wanted to share some of my secrets im still learning about Quadzilla timing. I'm finding that you can start as low as 13° on the 1.5k band. This really does build way bottom end power. Im still running +4.5 step up to the next. I was playing with my economy tune and when I drop every band by -1° it really did make my truck want to rip the tires off. Boost builds super fast. Now keep in mind my injectors 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar. Then ive got winterized fuel and daytime weather of barely 40°F. Stepping up to 14° or 15° in the 1.5k really took the power down for me under current fuel and temperature. As for my summer tune as the winterized fuel came on really start making it buck and pop in the 3k realm which is a sign of over advancement. This why I shift every down 1°. Originally I started at 15° and +4.5 step up worked good in the summer with LOW cetane and warm weather. As the winterized fuel starts it slowly raising the cetane hence why my summer tune starts bucking in the upper RPMs. Then today coming back from town I stopped and dropped that 1.5k to 13° and step up +4.5 now it jumps up to 15 PSI of boost, wire tap jumps in and it feels like a continuous power all the way very smooth and pulls so hard in 3rd I could hear the tires giving in and starting skip and spin. Remember neither the Quadzilla or ECM cannot sense cetane changes so when the tune just don't have the power because cetane change some times its best to try a bit of retard. Lower the cetane and warm weather the more you can advance timing.

Heck even I'm running 60/60/12 with 500 HP.

gotta keep the family together...

Good to hear. I heard from a few members that they haven't seen you in awhile. I took it apon myself to just dive in and send you a text message. Still love your response.

Wiped out... lots of carbon.

Ahhh... Just thinking about it. Not much a person can do for prelube other than pull the fuel pump relay. Cranking over has little load per say vs. running with 30 pounds of boost pull a trailer. Starter will turn in over slower than idle.

Not worth it. Way too much work to access the oil pump to pre-lube. Personally I would just change oil, fill it up and start it up. Leave it idle till warmed up a bit. (100 to 140F).

80 PSI will carry a total of 3,042 x 4 = 12,168 pounds. 4,000 pounds over the rating of a 2500 truck. Again 60 PSI will carry just over 9,000 pounds. Why make the ride crappy?

Yeah... Gas is about 123k BTUs where Diesel is 137k BTUs per gallon.

Yup... Love towing... Five one-ton hay bails.

Hooked like a addict... I've got both 5.9L V8 and 5.9L Diesel... Always reminds me that I need to fix the Cummins when I start driving the Lil' Red...

Full article including dual pressure math...