Mopar1973Man

No I'm more bummed that every time you've came do to hang the weather sucked. Now is a good time to be up here highs in the 90's today. Weather is calm and mild breeze through the yard. The spot I'm building out back is under the huge maple tree and the RV stays naturally cool back there.

Always go for the largest pump and use the largest hose 1/2" and fitting. You need 1/2" straw in the tank and keep the stock filter and 1/2" big line kit too.

Timbo APPS is a completely mechanical APPS sensor no electronics just a heavy duty rheostat. Even have them in the store...

Rumor is that the 5th gen pumps are actually pretty good. Just need to modify the unit to fit into the fuel tank.

Welcome to the family...

315's tires make your final ratio 3.27:1 to the ground way too low in final ratio you NEED to change to 4.10 gears to reduce stress on the drive line. MPG number is not correct either being your odometer is no longer close to correct and percent offset don't work either. You need to track mileage with a GPS. Optimal final ratio should be 3.55 to 3.73. Like myself I went from 31.7 inch (235/85 R16) tires to 30.5 inch (245/75 R16) tires and final ratio is 3.69:1. Really hard on the transmissions and driveline.

I worked there for 2 years back as a kid. Van Nuys, CA.

Not me. Last thing I want to do is be stuck at home.

Yup I typically do. Low failure rate typically. All the shops out here use NAPA since there is no Autozone, No O'rilleys, no Pep boys, etc. I have a NAPA in McCall, ID. Then the main NAPA store is in Council, ID. Then there is NAPA in Ontario, OR (no taxes and better discounts), then there is a NAPA in Grangeville ID. Now Ontario have Autozone and O'Rilleys but typically part guys are dumb as posts.

Been extremely happy with the Hankook ATm... Worth looking into. Harder compound and tire wears like iron. I've been running those for over 250k miles 4 winters and excellent traction in a foot of snow at 55 to 65 MPH. No studs in the tires either. Last set I got two winters out of. This will be my first winter to just stay home. I've got Discoverer AT3 on the 1996 dodge not too happy with those either.

I would never use a FRRP pump. First off the stock line size is too small for that pump. Enhanced wear. Pump is too far from the tank. Pumps are not design to pull fuel long distance. Then the pump has no return line so when it dead heading with low flow it cavitation creating air or foam in the fuel. Typically suggest full AirDog or full FASS. More so AirDog since FASS pumps tend to gell up fast out here vs. my AirDog.

All i can say is swap the axle gears for 4.10s. Final ratio will be too low.

Brake fuild should changed every 30k miles. The fluid has moisture in it and oxidized all the seals hence the black color. Now I suggest you rebuild the whole system. New Master, New calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Look over the metal tubing rust holes or leaks. Double check all the rubber hoses too.

Just starting to add a second RV spot in the yard which will have full hookups by next year most likely.

No! Do not set for the old voltage... This why I'm suggesting the Timbo to get you way from this old method of voltages. It was that Dodge APPS has a logic board to control the IVS switch by electronics ot TPS voltage to trigger idle or throttling. This is all based on the current APPS if replace DO NOT ADJUST. Leave it alone!

That tag voltage number is the break point between 0.320 0.420 Idling ............................ | Throttling...................... > Now you set it so it rocking back an forth between throttling and idling. It is REQUIRED the idle voltage be BELOW the tag number at least 0.1 volt so you need to set it to 0.320 volts to get back in range again. Idling software disregards the APPS value completely and now runs a internal software of the ECM for idle control. Manual truck have the anti stall feature in the software. The Auto do not have the anti-stall. Adjusting the apps never does any good other that fouling up the idle circuit. Hence there is none of that in Timbo's APPS. You can see the zones in the rheostat. Even on the install of the Timbo they ask to measure the TPS voltage and adjust the stop screw till it rises and then back of to that point it started and the loosen the stop screw 1 more turn to drop the rheostat in the idle zone more so.

Early series came with 245's. Then everyone want big tires hence why the door stick still remains showing the 245's but upgraded to 265's. Which mine came with. On snow and ice the 265's were ice skates. The 235's I ran for year I could run foot deep snow at 60 MPH no problem. 245's kind of different problem smaller tire give more torque to the ground so it really easy to get it break loose on snow or ice but with a modified quad tune not an issue. Axles might be rated for much more everything start to degrade more. Suspension parts, handling, track bar, shocks, brakes, etc. Yes I've cross over heavy several time being I'm registered to haul up to 26,000 pound. I've done hay hauls, hauling backhoes, etc. Now more the old wood trailer 7,000 pounds and just my 8,500 pound RV. Another that was a heavy haul was Cajflynn hauling boat around the east side weighing in at 28k to 32k boats. Big! Hence what I know about heavy haul and the damages it did to his truck on a daily basis. Seem like all his photos where tiny pics and now gone.

Be easier to just replace it now being the voltage adjust does nothing but make things worse for a old APPS sensor. It based on voltage on when the ECM uses idling software to throttle software. So when you adjusted the APPS you shoved the range to far up now it dead pedal because you've gone out of range and hence to protect you from a stuck WOT the ECM just drops to idle and hold it from a period of time till it see normal signal again. Timbos APPS no electronics. I've got Timbo's APPS in stock that are fully mechanical and have no electronics. No voltage to set really.

2011 Cummins will need injectors right off if the own can prove that new injectors are already been done. That would be only way at that price. ($2,244 DAP price for Stock injectors) 2012 Ford I would do the same thing if they can prove new injectors have been installed recently then I would go for the price. ($2,800 DAP price for Stock Injectors) Both trucks are coming up on injector change time. Both are common rail and both extremely expensive. Common rail injectors have roughly 100k to 150k miles. and need to be changed. Just remember the Ford 6.7L had way more junk in the way to even reach the valve covers so even labor is more expensive. Cummins is 2 cylinders less and right there on top. Just you have to pull all the fuel rail to get the crossover tubes out properly. Adds about extra hour compared to doing 2nd Gen injectors. Also changing injectors on Cummins you should write down the fuel trim codes on the injectors and what cylinder they went into. Then have the ECM flashed with new trim codes. Yup I had to to d this for a ECM replace on a 2012 Ram. Local kid bought a 6.7L Cummins own it for about a year and fought with it the whole time. Once I came to the picture it was the injectors wore out at 182k. He cheap'ed out and only replaced the one injector. MPG was not very good. So he sold to another gal because he didn't want the big price tag for injectors. Really common people selling the truck just as the injectors are starting to fail. Hence why I held on to my old 2nd Gen. I can change out the injectors for mere $400 to $500 for a set of 6 injectors. Even the 2020 Ram is only 370 to 410 HP listed. with just 7 x 0.010 injectors, smaller tires 245's, and Quadzilla I can out pull a new 2020 Ram truck right now. 417k miles and still rolling. Heck looking at the old VP44 they are cheap compared to 6.7L injectors.

I typically aim for about 35-40 PSI lo side and about 225-250 PSI hi side.

No there is a difference Ford is a manufacture of a vehicle. But F.O.R.D. actually stands for "For Only Retarded Drivers". If you dumb enough to need muffler bearing grease I'll get out the F.O.R.D. grease and charge accordingly. You might own a Ford and be a F.O.R.D. too.

Dripley is right on. Yes you want to tight the lines FIRST. Crossover tubes will be pushed into the injectors and centered up and sealed before you lock the injector in place.

Gear number is based on the gear and tire info in the settings of the iQuad. Pan to the right one for more gauges like what ive got. You can run IAT 145°F no problem. Won't hurt it. I built my MPG fooler to set 143°F IAT Temp. Cold IAT below 80°F will cause MPG loss from the sudden jump of about 4° jump in timing. Hence why most loose MPG in the winter where I only maybe loose -1 MPG at most. Cold air is not the answer being ugnition needs heat to make fuel go from liquid to vapor to BANG!.

I've seen both. Vacuum leaks that do this and melted pistons, blown head gaskets, etc.

Pull them up again and tight the crossover tubes first. This allows the crossover tube to self center in the injector before you tighten the hold down. So now you've created a high pressure leak inside the return rail of the head. Just got to loosen everything up and upll and reseat the injectors and tight the crossovers first. Then do all the injector hold downs last.