Mopar1973Man

Same... Bore can't rust if it made from aluminum. As long as there is no moisture there is on oxidation. I don't have a cast master cylinder. Just like the current clutch cylinders are aluminum as well.

It is when people don't have gauges and trying to use strictly the Quadzilla for gauges. I al ways highly suggest gauges vs. Rely on digital tuner. Even Edge has this same problem. I more or less just use Quadzilla boost reading for diagnostic more so. Use boost gauge is more accurate and Quadzilla will at least tell you if the sensor is working. Thats it. Accuracy just isn't there.

Again hook up a live data tool and check your rail pressure. Then you might look up how to test return volume. Might even check the fuel pressure to the CP3. If it running weak it might be starving the CP3 on the top end.

No idea... All I know I've never seen one Quadzilla yet with accurate boost numbers. I love looking at my logs and seeing Quadzilla reporting some crazy super high boost number. Right now I'm pretty sure my wastegate is blowing open easy. I top out at 35 PSI of boost (ISSPro EV2) and sure enough the Quadzilla will report like 45 to 50 PSI. Previously I was getting 47 to 49 and it would report 67 to 69 PSI of boost in the logs. The only time mine is close to right is below 25 PSI.

Then try for 17 PSI spring. I thought factory FASS or AirDog spring is 14 PSI...

Just like @Taz truck sitting in my yard he's got a couple of bad injectors. It starts and runs slightly off beat idle. No real smoke difference and no growing oil. He's parked he waiting to get the money together for injectors. The last truck that blew up was a 2005 Dodge and it washed the rings out but didn't grow any oil at all. Required rebuilding. Then the last truck I sold was a 2010 Ram 6.7L owner didn't want the injector replacement issue he also had the grid heater light on. The new owner has the issue which I notified them as well.

No no change in smoke or anything you might detect a slightly long cranking time. Most injectors fail without warning without any smoke change.

Just remember at 100k to 150k miles the injectors should be consider for replacement. Not cheap either I see a lot of people ditching the truck right around this point because they don't want the injector replacement cost or just not know and performance is dropping and just ditch the problem so the new owner can deal with it.

Bingo... All the exactly correct answers. All pros. Then con's only con I found is don't be dumb and come down a slick slope with only 2nd drive it will lock the rear tires and start it sliding uncontrolled. Pros.... You can combo with my high idle kit and apply the exhaust brake for super fast warm up. Do take note doing this adds more carbon ot the oil But it possible to warm up from -20*F to full 170*F coolant in under 10 minutes. If you want real rumble like a big truck...

Injectors are wasted... Time to replace them. Common rail injectors are only good for 100k to 150k most. Replace them all. Yup I know that a roughly $4,000 for just the injectors. Make sure to buy only new injectors if you want long life. Like on my 24V truck when the injectors wear out the idle starts to lope because the spray is wrong, and pop pressure are too low. Mine will lope as well on bad injectors. Even I find that 24V injectors are wore out about 100 to 150k also. Same problems can happen on CR engine too. The bad part is continue running on bad injectors could do damage to the engine. Last one I dealt with burned up cylinder 5 and 6. Lost all the compression and fuel washed the rings out. Needed to be sleeved.

Hook up a live data tool and watch the rail pressure. Also how many miles on the current injectors?

Personally I would just drop to a smaller tires like I did but 99.999% won't. They will continue to fight to keep there lift and 35 or 37 tires. I've got no solutions or idea because I have zero experience building lift trucks other that what it causes and having to take it all apart and replace everything back to stock for customers. Once back to stock height and stock tires the problem goes away. Hence just like I learned on my 1972 Dodge that a ruined the front axle to the point I bought out all the available parts locally and was now have to resort to axle replacement. I sold the truck for a mere 1,000 and bought my new Cummins. I made a promise I would never lift or run oversized tires. Since I never did I never had all the issue your have. Again most customer end up buying someone else's nightmare like I got a meet and greet in Ontario, OR today to fix a lifted truck and explain this again so he can replace all the lift junk with stock parts and drop tires sizes. I will not even attempt to fix a lift truck to keep the lift. It ends poor typically with the owner selling the truck because its undriveable. Just like I sold my 72 Dodge... I couldn't fix it...

That's about it the closer the exhaust brake valve is to the engine the better the performance. It just that the engine has to fill more pipe area with pressure before hold back occurs. Just that the valve is a distance from the manifold and there is added volume space hence the delay but the hold back should be the same being it will hold up to 60 PSI of drive pressure from the engine.

Shouldn't be any valve on the return line. Truthfully should be no valves at all in the fuel supply system.

Slightly slow to engage being the pipe has to fill with pressure.

Mine is the reverse. The bottom end from 0 to about 20 to 25 PSI is good but beyond that I know my turbo tops out at 47 PSI roughly and the Quad logs that I reached 69 PSI. Tried two different MAP sensors (2001 which is installed) and my OE 2002 Sensor both react roughly the same. Weird... I've more or less given up on boost accuracy.

It should be getting to you soon. (New Timbo's APPS). Keep your battery terminals coated with engine oil you never clean them again. They will never corrode or oxidize.

ZERO or near ZERO loss. When your under power the valve is OPEN. If there was any loss in performance I would not of high marked 14.7 MPG towing my RV.

Well I guess you need to send the ECM out to Auto Computer Specialist and let them repair that.

I'm on the other fence with Valair Dual Disc. The clutch itself is rock solid. Throw out bearing is loud in every one of these I've installed. Works good throws fairly easy. Gotta be slow with 3rd gear mostly. 4th and 5th just a bit slow to throw too.

Too high need to drop below 12 PSI. 7 to 12 PSI is a good cranking pressure. Bad idea it only going to make the pressure higher. Need to change the spring for a 14 PSI spring then shim to meet your pressure you want. You need more return flow. Mine is set for 17 PSI and typically only drops to 15 PSI WOT and then 7 to 9 PSI cranking.

Remember factory halogen bulb is about 1,500 lumens. LED and HID's are typically 4,000 lumens.

No problem one of the many features I wanted for my gauges. Programmable warning lights. Offer is open for anyone that reads this...

Need to upgrade to full 1/2 inch lines you'll get more volume through the VP44 keeping the fuel temps down. I'm 1/2" from the DrawStraw in the tank, to the AirDog 150, then up to the stock filter and then finalize with 1/2" between the stock filter and the VP44. I struggle to get past 120*F fuel temps. This is my last trip to McCall ID with temps in the high 90's. Climbed a 7% grade and did my shopping and came home again.

Remains with the last reading. If you want send me your gauge I can program the warning light for any temp, pressure, etc. Or just pick up the EV2 programming cable its like $27 bucks for the programming kit.