Mopar1973Man

Welcome to the family... Like you I've owned a few Dodge's... 1972 Dodge Power Wagon 1973 Dodge Charger SE 1976 Dodge Power Wagon 1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome 1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins

Photo please I'm curious of what that looks like?

The last one I fired up I did nothing to. I had been standing in a field for 4 or 5 years. We installed a set of batteries. Crank on it a bit to get the fuel up and oil pumping. Pulled the air filter and gave it a shot of starting fluid lit it off. Ran fine. Couple days later had him drive it to my house and installed a VP44. No start hot issue and P0216 code.

Just put the relay in another empty hole. It will baffle most.

Easy.. pull the fuel pump relay.

Little lunch break. My last bolt and the battery pack on the impact gun died. Man even with experience of the donor removal its still a major PITA. Going to be fun installing the donor.

Hateful little Jeep... Already got the donor from another jeep... Taking some time to get that lil transfer case out. Little to no room for big paws..

I'm still rust free for the most part. A bit creeping in around the door seems. But the rear fenders I've been washing out since day one. It might be easier to order the entire bed side. Like back in the day I use to work in a body shop and did all the tear down. I would drill out all the spot welds. Then seperate the bed skin and the fix the wheel well. Then prep it for the new skin and get it close then hand it off to my boss and let him finalize the body and paint.

Bring this back around. I need to do the power point down below now. I'm finding now that I've got @Wet Vettein my life we are constantly looking for one more port for charging phone. Then any passengers are without too. So I'm going to be ordering a standard 2 plug port WITHOUT volt meter. So far the first one has held up to some serious abuse and dead device but always charges fast and cool.

I just got busted for that in the 3rd gen section...

Opps... Gotta pay attention. Need coffee yet... Still in all then swap the Quad for Smarty Touch. But the only problem its too complex for most people to even tune.

With my High idle kit switch... Yes the only two ways of enabling the ECM high idle is Smarty tuner or the Dealer. The only way to turn it off is the dealer. No I don't... I've got my Quadzilla display up typically and see the IAT before even starting. If the IAT is even close to 32*F I will disable the Quadzilla. Then come spring again then I will turn on the Quadzilla being the temps are nowhere near 32*F on the IAT. ECM is always ENABLED and ARMED it the Quadzilla that I selectively turn off and on. Still in all the 3 CYL function is WAY FASTER than the Quadzilla high idle. Yes I've got both. I can only selectively turn on and off the Quadzilla. Period. The ECM high idle is always armed and no way to turn off. So any time the IAT is near 32*F then the Quadzilla high idle is turned off and use the ECM high idle. Yes you can just disable the Quadzilla for winter time and use the ECM high idle. Spring time return back to the Quadzilla. Been that way for the entire time I've owned the Quadzilla. I enabled my ECM high idle long long time ago and never turned it back off. ECM HIGH IDLE 6 CYL - IAT must be below 32*F with the grid heaters on. ECT must be below 140*F. 3 CYL - IAT must be below 15*F with the grid heater on. ECT must be below 140*F.. For me really soon I will be shutting down the Quadzilla high idle being the next week is going to be single digits. So bye bye to the Quadzilla high idle till spring. Notice both the delay and the warm up mode are both turned OFF! It will continue the rest of the winter with the ECM high idle now. I'll just use my high idle switch to control which mode I start with. Remember to set the switch on the mode before you start up.

BD fueling box needs to go. Replace that... That turbo would be for about 150 to 200 HP injectors. Plus a Quadzilla then you might really light that turbo.

Well the last two days I've been lazy and taking 2 days off. The last 5 weeks I've more or less worked everyday. If I wasn't turning wrenches I was doing home stuff. Wore out... Ive got a Jeep transmission to swap tomorrow. Fun...

Geez.. Happy times right? I've got to say at least I've got my health.

I know about the tow truck comment. Your good... As for fuel temp 160*F is high... Even my trip to Mohave Valley AZ this summer I towed the RV down there and had outside temperatures of 117*F and fuel temp only made it to a mere 145*F...

Coasting with the clutch in that is normal. ECM can see road speed and holds the idle up for that 1,100 to 1,200 RPM till the road speed drops near zero. TPS signal should not wonder when at idle. Nope that is correct the TPS value should drop to ZERO and stay there when idling. Shouldn't bounce or anything as long as your foot is off the pedal.

@Dieselfuture I would love to see your fuel temps in the VP44. No. I do what has to be done to get vehicles running and fixed. If I gotta barrow a trailer and haul it back I will.

Might consider getting it replaced. But yes you can try a reset... Most likely do nothing being the APPS reset only reset the min and max values of throttling but does nothing to set the IVS for idle.. It has ZERO to do with the IVS (Idle Validation Switches) inside the unit. Now the IVS is controlled by voltage in a stock APPS where a Timbo's APPS is based on position of the sensor. APPS reset will not change that fact. Most likely...

Looking into it. Most likely a permission switch over looked.

Now that I found it again...

Part of why I made this post is to show that old school drawstraws can perform just fine if installed correctly. The other factor I'm finding is fuel temps on the old school drawstraws are typically lower than sender based straws which recycle the same hot fuel back to the injection pump. Then being able to drive long distances and no 1/4 tank pressure drops as fuel sloshes around. After all these year the AirDog is still holding a solid fuel pressures and no issues with old school draw straw. The biggest problem is people cutting the straw to short, cutting the end diagonal, etc. Even the sender based straws are typically hotter for fuel temps being fresh cool fuel is nowhere to be seen being same fuel is reused over and over.

Yes. You can measure voltage drop along the main power cable. Like I verified my ground cables and have a mere 3mV drop (0.003 volts) from end to end of both ground cables. Basically BLACK probe on NEG post then RED probe cable on clean metal of the block. Same can be done with positive cables. Again RED probe on the battery terminal and black probe at the next positive terminal it should never rise over 0.2 Volt under load. The article uses the starter to load the cable.

After 422k miles I'm on my 3rd Sending unit. I just changed the sender just a couple of months ago. I've never ran it below an half a tank while Mom was going back and forth. Now my last trip I barrowed a trailer and would you know it no lights on the trailer. I had magnetic lights but only the right flasher worked. I knew I had to run for home in the daylight. I didn't stop for food or fuel at all. Just kept driving and made it home by just dust. That what I had left after the trip to town to get fuel this morning. I'm also a 35 gallon tank but since my batteries went dead my gallon amount on the iQuad app was zero'ed out and didn't have accurate data to work with. Rather not chance the thought of running out of fuel when its subzero here. Walking would be a bad idea...

Would be nice... Just like Sunday did a rescue of a vehicle in Boise drove down and back with the car. I'm trying to get out of here and go to Boise for a bit of fun and time off. I've still got a ton load of work here at home. I could take off and head to the other shop and pull a transmission.