Mopar1973Man

Building tunes is a no big deal. If anyone want a hand at building tunes I'm more than willing to help out. As of OP's original question. The thing is when you start tuning and setting up timing you'll find that as you get the timing set up correctly the engine load will go down. I know stock ECM vs. any of my tunes might be about 2 to 5% lower engine loads on the Quadzilla vs. Stock ECM. This is because the stock ECM tune is retarded so more the flame front is turn into boost. When you advance timing more the flame is doing more piston work and less turbo work. Typically a good tune will roll on next to nothing for boost.

There is different things that affect timing amounts. Pop pressure the injectors are built too. High pop pressure makes them late (need more advance). Final gear and tire size, Large tires like more retard. Manual or Automatic (manuals like a bit more retard to launch). Cetane of the fuel. High cetane needs more retard since the fuel lights easy. Low cetane could use more timing because of its slow ignition quality. Best way I found is play with the timing on a flat quiet road. Then keep trying different values to the engine load goes down. Basically if oyu have a flat road and set the cruise for 65 MPH. if the current timing was 22% engine load and you advance timing a degree more and your next test at 65 MPH on your flat road nets you 20% engine load try advancing again if it goes down again keep going till the engine load rises. This rise will be negative torque in other words you firing so early that the piston is being forced down while traveling up yet. Then back off a few degrees and now you should be about right. Like my "economy tune" lands me right about 23* at 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH, 245's tires gives me a final ratio of 3.69:1. Being my tires are small and the final ratio is lower I can start up with more timing in the bottom end and do a spread of +4.5* between bands. 15, 19.5, 24, 28.5. Then have +4* for cruise timing. Even with my injectors at 320 bar this works out great. Engine oil temp float 160 to 170*F typically. EGT's are lower. MPG is up. This tune with high timing builds little boost till in the upper end. Not designed for racing... Switch tunes to my performance tune. I dropped to 14, 18.5, 23.0, 27.5... This gives me a bit better edge getting launched in a hurry from light to light. Fuel table is a bit fatter across the mid to upper end. With a bit less timing I'm now building more boost get launched.

That is huge...

Matter of fact I just talked to a gent this morning about his 03 Dodge and his 04 Dodge with the same intake horn. Those are choked compared to the 2nd Gen that flow thru fine. I must be OK being I'm only a 500 HP truck right?

Problem is the Edge Juice is only going to set up for stock injectors timing wise. If you injectors are any larger than stock this is where the problem starts to grow. I was Edge Comp user for over 10 years. As injectors get bigger the timing needs to advance more. EGT's will get out of hand and smoke included. Since switch to Quadzilla EGT's are no longer an issue even with 500 HP roughly because of adjustable timing. I run wide open on the Quad on towing tune and it really hard at 17,300 pounds on a 7% grade to even get close to 1,200*F with (7 x 0.010) injectors 150 HP cruise set for 65 MPH. My turbo might be a bit bigger on the compressor (60mm vs. 54mm) but the rest is exactly the same as a stock HX35W. Just be aware of this limitation...

McCall ID is a tourist trap town. The local mayor made a mask required city inside or outside. Most of use refuse to wear a mask outside. (Me included). Now as for Riggins, ID there suppose to be 1 case down here but never found out who. No one wears a mask down here. They do the right things with social distancing. Like myself I slept with the window open and its 53*F this morning so my nose is running and dripping this morning. Eileen thinks I've a got a few mild allergies (yeah I'm allergic to getting up and working - Right?) Seriously I do have a bit of issues but neither of us have the COVID-19 virus. She been tested not to long ago and still clean. Now up here is rather relaxed about the the whole Corona problem. Now @Wet Vette is in Mohave Valley, Arizona again. Her daughter want to break free for her own vacation. Arizona is one of the hot bed places between the air temperature being over 128*F in the last photo I seen and the most cases of COVID-19 coming out of Kingman, AZ. Little concerned about her being down there alone. She is a MA (Medical Assistant) so she understands masking up and all that. Now I've got to mention this WILL NOT NAME member called me 2 nights ago. He's was visibly upset, depressed and ready to quit. I talked to this member on the phone for at least 30 minutes. He's feeling the effects of the COVID-19 on his business. He's bills piling up to eyes and it getting worse. I told him you need to disconnect for you job for a short time and head home to your family. Now spend some time just letting it go for a day and then another day talking over the his issues with his family. Get some feedback on how to handle this issue he's in. Now in this realm I'm just as freak out as him because no one can see the end time of the COVID-19 lock down and restrictions. Between the rock slide blocking US95, detour time (2 hours for a 15 mile round trip) and thinning economy out here. It's rather spooky. I'm even very cautious about even spending the $1,328 to buy a VP44 for a local to repair their truck. The local economy is based on rafting right now and it nearly impossible to social distance on a raft or in a small drift boat. What we missed for income periods... Jet boat races, Riggins Rodeo, Salmon fishing (closed low count), now rafting is hurting... Even I'm managing to grab few job here and there but not like last year. When I met Eileen I did a picture of my weekly pay there was a ton a of cash laid out on the desk. Now I struggle to make just a quarter of that pile. The only thing different is I don't have the overhead of Mom and long distance travel and truck repairs. But I'm still paying bills on Mom's medical which I think I came to the end of... Yeah it depleted a bunch of my saving trying to hold it together and keep my cancer bill paid. It no day at the park for anyone... So all I can say is be smart about what you do and be careful out there.

Most likely a VP44 failure with the P0251 and P0252.

We would have to call it the JAG1 strain of COVID-19. No mask required.

Just remember you can throw matches at diesel fuel all day long and never get it to light off. Diesel fuel need to be heated above flash point to created vapor. Typically around 150 to 160*F.

Then the 10 to 12 earthquakes didn't help either. Mostly based out of Stanley ID area. Ranging 3.0 to 4.0 magnitude. Then is slid out and crushed that steel container like a plastic toy.

Extra ground strap between batteries is not going to make it better. That just points out the master grounds to the block are weak.

Still going to be a yellow mess... Being the bulb itsself will not produce any more light. 9004 and 9007 bulbs (1,500 lumens). The reflectors are still low quality and the pattern will be hot spotted. lot of scattering around the rim. The thing is the HID's I'm running are 4,000 lumens (Morimoto D2S HID's) this is a 35w ballast. These are 4,500 Kelvin color. Yeah I know everyone dislikes LEDs. 1996 Dodge 1500 is a standard headlight reflector (clear lens) but running a 4,000 lumens LED bulb (18 watts). Now you changing the light color with LEDs 7,200 kelvin color (bluish white) mere 18 watts vs. halogen at 2,500 Kelvin Color (orange/yellow warm color) using 55/60 watts. I'll try and remember tonight to fire up the 1996 Dodge and show the LED pattern.

Rolled through today and grab a few photos but only one is worth a darn... Look at that cargo container...

I tend to prefer soldering. The reason for soldering is the terminal is welded on and provides a solid connection that can never fail. Where a crimp can corroded between the wire and the crimp and later on fail. With solder filling the voids and welding the wire to the crimp there is no way for the crimp to slide off or corrode between. The solder seals the wire from wicking in any corrosive materials like battery acid as well. Like my solar / hydro system has 2/0 cables all soldered between each. 25 years later the cables are still sealed and no corrosive has enter under the jack of the cable. Also these are lead acid batteries (1,000 pounds) which never venting corrosive vapors if charged correctly. Then an update with the truck... All solder connections. All solid and clean yet. Passenger side with alternator charge lead on the positive post. Also take notice I've got ZERO corrosion on the battery and not venting anything. These are 8 years old. This is the second year of the W-T ground wire mod. Driver side battery. Terminals still in excellent condition. No corrosion or venting of acids. ECM and VP44 gorund still clean and tight. Here is the ground point. I will admit this ground cable could wick in acids easy being the solder doesn't make the jacket of the wire.

I've got to roll into town today for a job... I'll grab my camera and shot a few photos. Take a look at the containers these are shipping containers that were shoved out from the large rock fall. Give new perspective of the size of the rocks vs a normal semi-truck container. You see the temporary dirt road below, the highway is more inward towards the hillside barely see the south bound lane shoulder.

What I try to encourage is you to play with setting in a control environments. Like quiet streets or back roads in farm country. Every truck is different in what it likes to be tuned. For what ever reason my truck loves the 23 to 24 degree around 2,000 RPM. The engine load drops out very low, engine oil temps drop into the 160 to 170 realm. My economy tune has the wiretap late for the reason that most normal driving can be done without wiretap. But nice to WOT and have it kick in for passing. I'm constantly watching and learning and trying to squeeze out that extra 1% more power and efficiency. If you export your current tune you can import it back if need by if you screw up. The biggest problem both of us (Me78569) face is people wanting to product smoke. That is a sure sign your flooding out the turbo and need to cut back. Quadzilla allows you to make clean tunes that produce more power this way than all the old school coal rolling from like Edge Products and others. Why is this because as injectors get bigger you need to add timing. No of the other tuners allow for controlled timing adjustments. Then with bigger injectors you need to build a defuel zone to allow for turbo spooling. Once the turbo is spun you can drop in quite a bit more fuel. My Economy tune when the wiretap hits there is ZERO change in exhuast smoke but you sure feel the truck pack up and leave. I still get guys asking for smoke tunes... No one will build them because its such a waste. Smoke tunes are much slower than any clean tune @Me78569 or myself can produce.

You not going to like it much. I owned mine for about 3 month and sold them. No improvement in light at all. The secondary light are narrow thin bands of light more of a vertical column than spread on the highway. The main light are the only thing cast on the highway. Pattern is scattered and poor. I even did the relay mod to get both bulbs to burn. Still no help from the secondary bulb because of the pattern it gives. Next step after this is HID...

Most likely the rheostat on the sender is wore through my first one failed that way... My 1996 Dodge is got a bad spot between 3/4 to 7/8 of a tank drops to EMPTY. Below that shows correctly too.

All the error code and definitions are here... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/

I can give classes on this its super easy to build tunes on Quadzilla. Think this is hard look at a EFILive or Smarty Touch no that is complex and confusing as hell. Pump Tap Parameters is all the setting for wire tap. How much time to add wire tap in microseconds. When does the wiretap max out vs TPS signal. When does wire tap start based on TPS signal. How much wiretap signal to start off with in percent. When to start wiretap based on boost. How far to go with wiretap based on boost pressure. Timing Parameters is all the setting for timing. Load based timing after load increased past cruise state. How far to retard timing based on heavy throttle. Second parameter for timing reduct. Cruise timing to add on top. Cruise timing range from 0% to ... RPM Timing Max is all the setting for max timing limits. Boost Level Fueling is all your CANBus fueling based on boost pressure.

I see a injection pump in your future. CCD Bus commincation error. Boost error code.

Sorry to hear about the loss.

Just got word that since there is no new rock movement they plan on blasting the massive rocks and the remaining hillside that is hanging.

I've already got the tank hung in the bands just getting frustrated with the drawstraw JIC connection. There is just enough hose but can't quite line up the threads and get it started. Only enough room for one hand. Already hot outside and 90*F here. Taking a break and going to try again later on that.

Not to mention you have a fuel supply issue too. Looking at the two screen shots you have fuel temps in the 140 to 150F range which is getting quite hot. The only reason for this problem is fuel pressure is dropping below 14 PSI and the overflow valve is closing. I run about 17 to 18 PSI of fuel pressure at 65 MPH. Notice the fuel temp and intake follow each other... You want just enough Timing reduct to spool the turbo rapidly on quick heavy throttle. I Now my RV towing Tune is set for 33% Light throttle load. My Economy tune is 25%. This one is empty truck tune and running about 16 to 18% engine load flat but allowed for small hill climbs under the cruise setting. Now you can see the enhanced load I've got different valves for my tuning tune because my average flat ground load is about 30% to 32%