Mopar1973Man

Might double check the heater treater and the gear alignment.

Ditch that... Pull it off and throw it in the trash. BD noise filter is not going to fix the problem but mask it so the AC noise burns up your VP44 and ECM. Do the W-T ground wire mod and the PCM protection fuse mod. Problem solved! Just for personal reference. My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 the diode pack in the alternator gave up yesterday. The trip started as normal then the TQ converter lock and unlock started. Just thought oh the common AC noise issue. I figure I could limp on that for the day and make it to Ontario and just replace the alternator. Nope... It got so bad it was pull it down into 2nd gear while rolling. I double check all fluids everything was full and no issues. I ended up limping back home 65 miles at a mere 30 to 35 MPH top speed.

No. That is the project of today. I must get the Cummins up and running. I've got the transmission hanging off the engine hoist and the bucket of Mobil 50 sitting there. Just need about 3 hours to stuff it together. The 1996 Dodge I can't find alternator in any of the part stores near me. I thought about dipping into the diodes but 186k miles the bearing have to be tired. She has been a huge help. Between Eileen's health issues and Mom's health issues it been nearly constant running back and forth to doctors appointments. I have not been able to work a paying job in weeks now.

Ordered my headlight full assembled from RetroShop. The upgrades like the D2S lens and rush shipping added to the price. Then the PIAA 530 LED Driving lights where at the time I bought mine was $349 IIRC. https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO http://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP530-3-5-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx

Things just went from bad to worse... Geez... On my way to dialysis for mom and the alternator crapped out in the 1996 Dodge 1500. The AC noise got so bad the transmission was jumping from 4th to 3rd and even 2nd gear. Totally randomly. Both trucks are broke and I need to get busy installing the transmission in the 2002 Cummins. Mom is going to have to skip the appointment and I've got to work on my Cummins even feeling sick. I've been fighting a low grade fever for the last few days.

Lets say I've got fresh clear lens headlights and SilverStar halogen bulbs and they SUCK. This is my 1996 Dodge. Halogen bulbs are just a mere 860 lumens. Now as for my 2002 Cummins I've got $1,000 worth of lighting. Those light are so good I can see everything like its daylight. The PIAA LED driving lights are 4,000 lumens. The Morimoto D2S HIDs are a bit less at 3,000 lumens. There is no other way to get quality lighting. I've tried relay kits, sport headlights, etc. All junk.

Yeah I took the day off yesterday and wasn't allow to put on shoes this meant I had to stay in the house and no going to work. Not feeling to great been fighting off a mild fever. Right now I just need to make it through the day for Mom's dialysis. As for my truck I need to get the transmission installed again. Just extremely tired... Yeah JAG1 did catch me on the phone for about an hour in Ontario.

I'm bringing this back because of too much outside people constantly calling and asking what is going on... Thankfully the website is holds threads for 30 days before deleting. Too hard to deal with text message, facebook message, etc. Just tell people to read this thread. Then, I'm posting only ONCE!. Give me a bit I'll catch up here and update whats going on. I've been pushed to the wall with nothing but hospitals and ER room visits. Got home last night at 5:45pm and was dead to the world by 7:00pm. I slept till 11:30am this morning. I'm not going to work today I'm too exhausted from 3 days (Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday) driving. Not even a full month yet and at 2,837 miles... Sorry I'm going to be a bit tough to catch but I'm still alive...

Bad field lead or armature. You just saved yourself $750 dollar repair of the PCM. Auto Computer Specialist took care of my failure but it was so bad the printed circuit board burned through completely making the PCM total junk. That 5 Amp fuse saved your PCM from certain death. Thank you for confirming that...

PCM does not ground through the case. Ground is the passenger side battery.

I did the Gates 34212 on that listing thinking Gates was a good quality T stat. Mine failed the in the first week. Went back to Napa... Haven't tried again since. Money is tight and time is even tighter.

If the protection fuse is blowing out its the blue wire to the field lead is either shorted to ground internally in the alternator or in the wiring. This is NOT a PCM ground issue. It a +12V feed issue from the PCM to the alternator and is drawing excessively on the field wiring. So if it was me iif you replaced the fuse and unplugged the alternator field lead and the fuse does not blow then the wiring is fine. The alternator is shorting out and need to be replaced.

I've been a Android person for years. So far I've used... LG G3 LG G4 LG G5 Aspen Tablet The only one I seen a problem with is the Aspen tablet it was far to old of a Android software which couldn't paint the screen properly. Currently the LG G5 works fairly good. I'm bluetoothed to a stereo, can make phone calls and voice controlled texting, and run the Quadzilla. Now as for Sumsung Android phone there is a few software issues I remember but not sure if they where fixed yet or not. iPhone seem to have issues I'm just not sure why and don't own one to understand...

I would have to say mounting location makes a huge difference. My AirDog 150 is mounted behind the transfer case. The coldest I've ran was -40*F and never gelled once. I do not use any anti-gel products either and have no fuel heater in the AirDog. Now another truck I installed a FASS 150 for a gent and install as FASS suggested location he's had nothing but troubles with that truck. It's froze and gelled up way easier than my truck and we both ran together for a week. My truck always started and ran the same fuel he was. His truck was gelled up and froze too many times and required a lot of 911 and heat to get fuel flowing. Location of the pump does make a difference. Being everything else is the same fuel, temperature and working times side by side.

We have the same thing here... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

Yes sir you need to select 2nd gear it should start in 1st gear.

@Wet Vette and myself were talking about breaking loose from city services and modern technology. I'm fully set up for cutting the city power at anytime. Then live off the solar and batteries as much as possible. Even my RV is set up with a cheap 1,200 watt inverter and the house battery and meger little 45w solar panel. We've also got the hurricane lamps and the wood stove for heat and light. Average power outage is 24 hours out here. The longest that I remember is 21 days back in the 1996 flood and mudslides here.

Still running my old AirDog and ISSPro EV2 gauges. Then on top I've got the fuel pressure gauge programmed for 13 PSI warning light. Very attention grabbing.

Fly by wire has no mechanical parts. PCM reads the road speed and pass fueling message on to the ECM by wire. This is true for manuals in the later years. Now all Automatics have a vacuum motor being the 46RE, 47RE and 48RE need mechanical movement for the throttle valve in the transmission.

Most likely the governor pressure sensor and governor pressure solenoid. Select 2nd gear it should start in 1st gear. If so the it is what I said. Check error codes too.

Better off using an ohm meter on DVM. Laser is to show location. The measurement is all Infra-red. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwGS4Yn5qLo (Just for fun...)

Not true. All alternators are typically rebuilt in the states. But I will tell you that all diodes are from China even the high amp ones. I've been trying to source out USA made diodes but they do not exist. Since I did the two mods all the failures have stopped completely. Even the cheap NAPA one I've got now is closing in on 100k miles. The two mods stop the failure issues.

I've got a HF IR gun for cheap and the temperatures are fairly correct as long as it calibrated for the material your measuring. There is calibration process for each material. All in the user manual.

Excessive AC noise and need to do the W-T ground wire mod. That will fix that problem.

iPhones are suppose to use the WiFi head and the Android is suppose to use Bluetooth. Something about iPhones can't Tx/Rx data on bluetooth. I'm running Android head and phone. The only connection problem I've got is just getting the bluetooth to just connect long lags and several tries later it will hook up. Once hooked it does well. Double check make sure the head type is right for our device. I can't help beyond that being I've never used a WiFi head on a Quadzilla. Might ask @Quadzilla Power he'll be able to tell ya.