Mopar1973Man

Correct the shift tower should be slightly above the floor line. Make sure that the shift tower can rock left to right enough that it doesn't bang the floor metal. Forward to rear space of the floor hole is only for the install and removal of the transmission.

Stock head bolt do stretch. So torquing bit tighter will stretch the bolt more. Doesn't improve clamping force. The only way is to use a harder bolt or stud. The ARP studs if IIRC is 125 foot pounds on the final torque. Where @dripley said the stock bolts you tightening an extra 90 degree turn.

2,000 is doing the job yourself. Might be doubling that figure for a shop to do the work.

As long as the ball joint is ventilated by burning a hole in the top so it doesn't hold pressure.

Pull the head send it to machine shop have the valves and guides done. Then have the head surfaced flat. Then pickup the studs. Mine was about $2,000 to be done, 18 valve guides, valves lapped, and surfaced flat. Head gasket and studs.

No. Shouldn't have to mess with retorquing the head much. The studs are harder than stock. Even ARP mentions in the docs not to retorque.

Turbo rebuild kits are like 50 to 70 dollars. Fairly easy to rebuild.

Yup that would be a good spot to start... The other 1600, 40, 40 will work but may not be big enough for boost if you upgrade in power. Then fuel pressure is in the 10-20 PSI range. The 0-30 would better accuracy.

The stock head bolts tend to stretch on the ends and then the leaks can occur. The machine shop suggested the 425 studs to help keep the head clamped down tight.

Head gasket for sure. Mine leaked in the same spot. Its head curl. 425 ARP studs will fix that problem.

Not really being it was over 4 hours to get to there shop and then 4 hours to get home. From that point I had them mail the module back to me.

Yeah I jumped into Module Master back in the day and for $130 and being able to visit the shop and meet the people which was awesome. Took care of me very well. I'd would still use Module masters again. For a company to do a repair for $50 makes me nervous. Not to mention the Module master 5 year warranty that is worth it.. SIA is only one year warranty.

Remember... If its snowing outside and you step out in the snow your feet press down through the snow as you step. Then if you want to walk on top of the snow you put on snowshoes (wide tires). Personally I want smaller tires to concentrate the axle weight in a smaller patch increasing the pounds per square inch. With wider tires it will cause the truck to float on top of the slush and snow reducing traction. This is why I went with 215s on the 1996 Dodge its barely 6,000 pounds loaded. Then the Cummins took the 245's which is about 7,500 pounds loaded. This amplifies the traction in snow allowing me to travel at 55 to 65 MPH in the snow. Fun part is watching all the lifted truck with 35's and bigger trying to catch me and can't because of traction problems. Typically pass them at 25 to 35 MPH and keep truckin' at 55 MPH most of the time. Another 4 months of this at least. Yesterday it was just a mere 15°F out...

How about 215/85 R16 tires on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. Works great in the snow.

Like for multiple reasons I dropped to 245/75 R16 tires and love them. Way better power, better MPG, and less failure brakes and steering.

DAP = Diesel Auto Power (Utah) great vendor supplied most of all my parts.

Ok... Dotted underlined words just hover with a mouse it will show the WOT definition. In this case (Wide Open Throttle) to force that engine to produce max boost for a period of time to exercise the wastegate arm. Inside the injection pump and requires full replacement of the injection pump. I would suggest DAP for supplier for injection pump. Good prices and good service. Basically in a nutshell you need a new injection pump. Then you would need to pull that turbo and see if you can free the wastegate. If not you'll need to upgrade the turbo. Oh forgive me I'm a Ubuntu Linux laptop and don't use Windows.

ABS module can't be removed... Speedometer won't work. Grid heaters won't shut off after 20 MPH. Cruise control will fail. Maybe a few other issues.

Wastegate could be rusted shut. Common problem for people in salt environments or don't work the truck hard once in awhile (WOT operation to work the wastegate) which is the P0234 code. Like my own truck it will typically see a few WOT operations per trip passing on the highway at just about 47 PSI of boost. P0216 code is the fuel pressure possibly, lack of fuel lubricity, poor filtration (excessive wear). The timing piston becomes damaged and the ECM calls for timing and the VP44 can't respond fast enough.

Full diagnostic documents for your codes. Corrected definitions.

The other thing that should be looked at is fuel pressure. Would be a good idea to check on too with a test gauge.

There is a expert function to the OBDLink where you can use Bluetooth terminal and call commands to the computers (PCM and ECM).

White cotton looking fiberglass.

Moog and Spicer are junk. Like myself I've got a cheap set of AC Delco's in my truck still going strong.

I've been working in my spare time to get more wood split and stacked. Being that winter is starting late here I'm not really using mush wood right now. Still got 2 more cords suppose to be delivered soon. Like this morning it 44*F and mild here little rain in the night.