Mopar1973Man

Nope. Very controllable and no real issue with EGT's on my last tow which was a 8,000 pound 31 foot Jayco RV. This includes climbing grades at 6% and 7% not a problem. 14.93 MPG for towing the RV from New Meadows, Idaho to Parma, ID. I've got to work on the tuning tune a bit more I'm sure I can make it work awesome. Injectors are DAP VCO (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) which is different from your Ducky Fuel Injection (7 x 0.009) popped at most likely 305 bar.

285's isn't going to be optimal either. Still puts you at 3.44 on the final. Need to go smaller yet. This will impact the EGT's still not as bad but you still adding quite a bit of rolling resistance. Even with 285's you would be optimal if your re-gear with 3.73 gears. More on rolling resistance... http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html

Cooldown still applies to any turbo including smaller turbos on a gasoline engine. The turbo bearings can coke up from the excessive temperatures at shut down. The only reason a deal would void the warranty is that racers tend to use the pyrometers to watch for excessive cylinder temperatures and meltdown.

Gear ratio. Strictly gear ratio and tires are too big and adding way to much engine load. I've got the tune dialed into the point I can WOT all the way to 100 MPH and never reach 1,200*F. But then again I'm running a mere 30-inch tire but the ratio is correct. Might look cool but your just going to burn it down with those huge tires. The only way to keep those tires is to re-gear the axle with 4.10 gears.

Gear ratio is wrong and too low. Need to re-gear the axles or change out the tires. You'll need 31-inch (3.55) or 30-inch (3.69) tires for optimal ratios. EGT will naturally fall with ratios between 3.55 to 3.73. My current tune would cover you for the Daily Driver. My turbo is slightly bigger (60/60/12). I'm already running 7 x 0.010 injectors but mine are popped at 320 bar for economy purpose. I'm 1,800 feet to 5,000 feet typically. I'm going to release another version here soon. Being summer fuel is in full swing and I can run even more timing. I just tested to see how much timing I can run. I'm pretty well maxed out now.

The article goes over the voltage and grounds. Then while testing with a DVM you will test for shorts to ground and open wiring.

Done it again another set of cheap WalMart seat covers and made them fit like they were meant too. I'm good for another 100k miles again! I got a set of Dickies Seat Covers and with a bit of trim work for the seat belt, they look great!

Timing is too retarded for few revving typically. Even my truck will do the same thing this is totally normal.

I was just looking at the number of times my system has been dry and the reprimed. The snubber is at the tap point not at the sensor/gauge. So the chances of water being in contact with the snubber is a good chance. This depends if the truck has the factory fuel filter or not. Then if the addon fuel system has a water separator or not. I'll admit even mine has had some water at the AirDog but nothing at the stock filter can. Like my fuel up here is drier than most where biodiesel has more water because of washing the fuel. Then southern states with high humidity have had algae issues which is water in the fuel issue again. Just thinking a wider scope that all.

You didn't do the P0237 testing, did you? This is not a Quadzilla fault but a wiring fault. Possible Causes Other DTCs Boost Pressure Sensor 5-volt Supply Circuit MAP Signal Circuit Short To Ground MAP Signal Circuit Short To Sensor Ground MAP Sensor Intermittent Wiring Problem ECM 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII(R) scan tool, check for engine DTCs. If any 5-volt supply circuit DTC(s) exist, perform appropriate test. See DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE DEFINITIONS . If no 5-volt supply circuit DTC(s) exist, go to next step. 2. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If MAP sensor voltage is .2 volt or greater, go to next step. If MAPsensor voltage is less than .2 volt, go to step 4 . 3. Shut engine off. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If MAP sensor voltage is less than 2.35 volts, go to next step. If MAP sensor voltage is 2.35 volts or greater, go to step 9 . 4. Turn ignition off. Perform turbocharger boost pressure test. See TURBOCHARGER under AIR INDUCTION SYSTEMS in SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING - RAM PICKUP - DIESEL article. If boost pressure test passes, go to next step. If boost pressure test does not pass, repair as necessary. 5. Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect MAP sensor harness connector. MAP sensor is located on driver's side rear corner of cylinder head. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage at terminal No. 1 (Orange wire) on MAP sensor harness connector. If voltage is 4.7-5.3 volts, go to next step. If voltage is not 4.7-5.3 volts, repair Orange wire between ECM and MAP sensor. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. 6. Turn ignition off. Ensure MAP sensor harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Using DVOM, measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 2 (Gray/Red wire) on MAP sensor harness connector. If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Gray/Red wire between MAP sensor and ECM. 7. Using DVOM, measure resistance between terminal No. 3 (Black/Light Blue wire) and terminal No. 2 (Gray/Red wire) on MAP sensor harness connector. If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short between Black/Light Blue wire and Gray/Red wire. 8. Turn ignition off. Reconnect ECM harness connector. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If MAP sensor voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. If MAP sensor voltage is 4.5 volts or less, replace MAP sensor. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 9. Turn ignition off. Visually inspect related wiring harness. and connectors between MAP sensor and ECM. Look for any chafed, pierced, pinched or partially broken wires. Visually inspect MAP sensor harness connector and ECM harness connector for broken, bent, pushed out or corroded terminals. Check for any Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) that may apply. Perform a wiggle test on the related wiring harnesses with the ignition on, engine not running. Repair as necessary. If no problem is found, test is complete.

Between the new alternator for $130 bucks in a NAPA parking lot. Then the tow home another $150 bucks. Then the $700 for the PCM replacement. Then the shipping cost to get to and from ACS and back to me. Little over a $1,000 for sure. Then the mods to protect the PCM and the circuit breaker. That project was very expensive.

Not that I would be worried about dirt but how about water and the hole rusting shut? Diesel fuel can have water in the fuel. I'm thinking of more people on the southern state in general here. Where like myself I would also do possibly a small hole damper too.

Sorry for the lag... Mine was 700 plus shipping. Mine was a full replacement.

First of Quadzilla tuner cannot be free revved. It doesn't have the timing tables for free revving.

I'm glad it worked out for you. It's always best to make sure the firmware of the Quadzilla is up to date. I know that Spencer @Quadzilla Power comes over with updates and put them in the Download section. Then the tunes are up for grabs in the download section as well.

Run the corrected I've provided.

Here is all the codes...

Are you sure it's a true data cable? some are just charging cable missing the data connection. I've got a few cables like that and it refuses to connect or do anything for the Quadzilla because of its only a charging cable. If you are on Linux I would say to fire up a terminal and the type in. michael@michael:~$ lsusb Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 001 Device 004: ID 058f:6364 Alcor Micro Corp. AU6477 Card Reader Controller Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 003 Device 003: ID 045e:00cb Microsoft Corp. Basic Optical Mouse v2.0 Bus 003 Device 002: ID 045e:0752 Microsoft Corp. Wired Keyboard 400 Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 008 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub Bus 007 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 006 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub Bus 005 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub michael@michael:~$ As you can see I can check all my USB ports for connection. But for Windows, I couldn't help you. I've not touched a windows PC in over 8 years now. The last version of Windows I worked with barely is Windows 7.

Good advise... I wouldn't exactly buy a cheapie MAP sensor nor would I hunt for a name brand sensor either. It could be a ground wire issue like what @dripley is fighting lately. The sensor ground is all crushed together in the loom. Like @Me78569 said do your testing and diagnostic work. Get your error codes and review the OBDII error code list in the article section it has all the steps for testing.

Just because Cummins is on the box doesn't mean Cummins manufactured the part. A lot of parts are made by different companies and relabeled as what ever brand. Kind of like some of Mopar oil filters are just Fram filters. As seen here... Just like everyone thinks buying a Cummins Thermostat is going to be best. There are only 3 or 4 manufacturers of thermostats and Cummins doesn't manufacture any thermostats at all. Food for thought...

No. Only 2002 will work for the key method. 2001 only shows the PCM. Doesn't mean that it's still good.

P0234, P0236, P0237 and P0238...

Is it possibly the wrong jumper in the Quadzilla? @Me78569