Mopar1973Man

I'll most likely go to WalMart and get some Sony Explodes...

Man every time I see people attempting to retrofit T style in glad I've kept my Y steering which has worked perfect for years and nearly 400k miles.

When it comes time ill rebuild my vacuum system completely with air brake tubing. Never worry again. Even on my 1996 gasser I will build it as well with air brake line. A lot of the mistake is making sure to route away from heat and friction.

I had to grab mine with channel locks to pull the wiper arms off. Once removed I greased the inside of the spline part. Road salts corroded mine some.

I dug deep in my pockets and got the ARP 425 studs. I seems to always be on the border line of everything. At least I don't have to worry about head gasket.

I used oversized ring terminals and soldered the wires to the ring, no crimp.

1973 Dodge Charger SE. Yeah now you know why the Mopar1973Man comes from.

Right on. Welcome to Mopar1973Man family. Seem like the 2nd Gens are making their way across the ocean to other countries. There is several here from the EU area.

Might be worth it to just see the ECM in and have it tested and verified.

Lucky enough. Only have HVAC and exhaust brake for vacuum. Non-issue for use without an CAD axle.

Remote mount the fuel pressure sensor is best. This is the wrong way...

Funny ARP 425 stud end at 125 foot/pounds...

Actually it will get worse if you crank up timing excessive or in the winter time with a canned tune like Edge. This is because as IAT falls below 80°F it cranks up nearly 4° of timing advancement. Then add high cetane fuel will add to the problem in the winter. Typically gets better in the summer.

High and low beam both. It's controlled by a shutter, not a bulb.

What is your 1500 and 2000 set for? If your 2000 is set for 18 degrees then a plus 1 would be 19 or plus 2 would be 20. That is how you figure cruise timing.

You are the only one of the group that got to meet Betty...

Should hit about 19 to 20 degrees typically at 2k RPM while in cruise timing. Flat ground cruise set at 65 MPH set your cruise load limit maybe 1 to 2% higher than your current cruise engine load. Slight rattle is normal but it should drop out when you pass your load limit. Timing should retard.

Out my way 1st and 2nd Gens everyone wants.

Still in all having them prebuilt saves you the labor and frustration of making mistakes and starting over to fix the mistakes.

Grey RTV here for the rear diff.

Our previous mail lady was good friend of the family. Betty Holderness she delivered mail till cancer took her life. She drove over 520k miles on a Subaru. She never missed a work day and always got the mail delivered.

Umm you mean ladies... We have got two gals that do the USPS. Then my local FedEx is a gal. Then UPS has been a guy.

In all the shops I've worked in they used RTV on lots of stuff and typically it comes back leaking. Like Myself I replaced the tappet cover gasket without sealant, no leak. Now on my intake gasket, I used gasket tack. Bad choice. It took hell and high water to scrap that gasket off when I pull the head. Nope. I'm not going to use that again. The old OEM gasket was laid down without sealant or tack. It was baked hard and stuck to the intake but it came off with a bit of work and scraped off with a putty knife.

Got to remember all gaskets and seals are installed on these engines without sealant or gasket tack. This is a big mistake most people do is assemble parts and then use RTV or other products where its should not be used. The only thing on these engines that takes silicone is the gear case cover.

If those are original injectors time to change them. Injectors in common rail trucks should be changed every 100k miles for safety reasons. If you overextend the use of the injectors you take a risk of melting down the engine. I highly suggest you look towards new injectors like BBi. Yes, the price is steep but at least they are truly new injectors. Valve lash is a maintenance item. Most people don't keep up with very well. I would run through the valve lash when you take the valve cover off for the injectors.