Mopar1973Man

I tend to agree... The 24V Cummins is not a good one for retro fits. Yeah it can be done but there is a lot to do with the electronics and making them work right. Yeah the ECM will work as a stand-alone but all diagnostic info will be gone. Need the PCM for the CCD network and then you need the instrument cluster for the Bias voltage for the bus. Then you need the ABs computer for speed signal for cruise control. The whole thing starts falling apart quickly.

This is true too. I've got two cables that are only charging cable with no data pin connection. So those two cables do not beep at the time of plugging in. I do have one shot cable which is for my Garmin that also works for my Quadzilla.

Been through to two belts now. Still the belt squeal in my truck does happen it can be just as a simple as replacing the alternator and the pulley is painted black. Now the paint comes off and glazes the belt. That's what killed my last belt was a new alternator with black painted pulley.

You'll have to pull the turbo off the truck. The wastegate motor has a very strong spring which requires both hands to even install the wastegate motor new. There is nothing you can do with the turbo installed on the truck. No. Just need to remove the wastegate motor. Then the wastegate arm can be worked with to free it. Typically it rusted shut because of not using the full ability of the turbo.

P0234 is an over boost pressure code. Most likely the wastegate is rusted shut. The p2509 is a power issue from what I can find.

Reset all error codes. Then go for about 10 to 15 mile drive see if it returns. If it does there are issues with the PSG on the VP44.

If the front channel is dead from the stereo then both front speakers and tweeter are dead too. Wiring might be fine but the front channel is burned up.

Any leveling kits installed? Leveling kits change the caster as well.

No issue here. No sump. Old school straw. 300k miles still trucking. I've even been down to the empty mark. . Not many can do what I have. Most screw up the tip with cuts or notches.

Napa Gold Oil filter and either Napa oil 15w-40 or Chevron Delo 15w-40.

Actually, the ground behind the starter is the fuel heater, and CANBus and lift pump ground. I wouldn't suggest moving any electric motor ground to a computer ground. G107 at the bottom.

Ok, the ones are flowing close them and leave the weak one open and open like 5 or 6 if you can reach it. You need at least 3 lines with good flow to make it start. If its troublesome, disconnect the grid heaters at the battery on the driver side. Then spray a small squirt of starting fluid at the turbo and light it up. Some starters are too weak to spin fast enough to get it to light off. Make sure the batteries are full charged too. Cables are in good condition. NOTE: The starter has 4 brushes on the armature. If one fails then you only have 50% of a starter and cranks slower.

Another one, I seen the same problem and it turned out to be the factory stereo had failed. I would find an old speaker and probe the outputs and see if there is sound or not. This will tell you if its a stereo issue or a speaker issue.

This is why you should have the fuel pressure gauge AFTER the last filter so you can monitor the supply pressure to the VP44. This also gives you an idea of how restricted the fuel filter is and you'll see pressure fall out under load. Good clue to change the filter.

Talk to @Dynamic our site transmission guru. You'll want to to do the WT ground wire mod to protect the computers. I would suggest that the Edge Comp is ditched and look towards a Quadzilla personally. Way better control of fuel and timing over a canned tuner. With kind of mileage, I would consider having the injectors pop tested or replaced. The Raptor should hold up for some mild mods in power. I see its a 4G pump so it should hold up good. Another one to talk with @Dynamic about this shifting issue. Might want to change the fluid and adjust the bands as a starting point which will allow you to see what is in the pan bottom for debris. Could be the filter is plugging up.

Replace the battery temp sensor it controls post grid heat and battery charging. As for starting reprime the system crack 1, 3, 4 injector lines and get it running.

No problem there is a ton load. Even a Forum strictly for Quadzilla be we are the largest storehouse of Quadzilla info. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/

I would pull the BD out. Most likely junk.

Might double check both the red wires. The ignition wire to the cab fuse panel might be weak. This wire is needed to hold the engine running. It back feeds ignition circuit and keeps the engine going till the Quadzilla drops the ignition then it shut down.

P1698 and 1694 are CCD network issues. The data bus is not talking between the PCM or ECM at all. So all gauges will act goofy.

Radio (premium) Remember the amplifiers are on the front speakers. Standard stereo...

One of the few reasons I love Linux. You can verify the USB connection and see the device plugged in. I know it's not very helpful. Like my example, my cell phone is plugged in. You can see my printer is a Canon. My keyboard and mouse. Etc.

Let's just say there are 52 versions of software for the PCM and ECM per year. Best off getting matching PCM and ECM for that year of truck for a manual. Smarty can flash only the ECM it cannot flash the PCM.

Yep... Just go to your local NAPA store and get the u-joints. Personally, don't bother with Spicer its not going to be last any longer. You need something you can grease. Unless you plan on pressing out the u-joints every oil change and greasing them.