Mopar1973Man

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@JAG1 Is right. The high pressure line is snugged up first then the injector hold down. If you reverse that then the injector hold down is tighten first then the injector can't center itself and typically creates a leak inside the head in the return rail and it just runs out the return line at the rear of the head.

Not a bad starter injector to upgrade too. Sad to say some of getting that terrible infection that you can't cure with stock power. You get addicted to the power and like a junkie gotta have more. Stock to RV275 Rv275 to Vulcan +50 HP Vulcan +50 HP to DAP +75 HP DAP +75 HP to DAP +150 HP I'm a very sick man... Stock ECM to Edge Comp +120 HP Edge Comp to Quadzilla Adrenaline +180 HP I'm seriously infected... Help! I'm not sure if there is a cure for this...

Yea. That's about right. If you can drop down to 55 MPH it gets you back up in the low to mid 20's if set up right. I'm hoping that these fresh injectors get me there.

Need a press to change the carrier bearing.

So... Need to test the green and blue field leads quick. BLUE field lead - Just unplug from the rear of the alternator and start the engine. Red Probe goes to blue wire and Black Probe to battery NEG. This should show battery voltage only while running. Key ON, Engine OFF there should be no voltage present. GREEN field lead - With it still unplugged and engine running. Red Probe to the battery POS and the Black Probe to the green wire. This should show battery voltage while running. Key ON, Engine OFF there should be no voltage present. Black Charge Lead - Should show battery voltage without the key on or engine running. If not the 140 Amp fuse blew.

4 Allen Screws and you can change the pump head pretty quick. Just need the filters removed to change the pump head.

Even easier yet. Remove the alternator have it bench test for performance. Replace if it fails or marginal...

That a small problem of the Smarty S-03 it wasn't designed for larger injectors really. No real way to cut fuel below stock levels to control smoke other to dial back the total fuel. Even the Edge Comp and Edge Juice have this problem.

265's where offered because of the large tire craze at the time. Everyone loved the larger tires and looking beefy but came at a cost. Even I bit that too it looked cool that way but not worth a darn. Now after all the years and even larger tires and all the front axle issues that people created there are very little good points about larger tires other than they float on mud much better but horrid for the snow.

Yes they will. I'm in the system I've just replaced my orignal pump head this last summer which lasted 13 years. Now this one barely made 6 months or so. Strange part is the last one got noisy and loud this one remained quiet and just died popped the fuse. I'm going to pull it off and look and see what happened. Man, it just crazy for me these days. Get up early work my tail off and feel even more abused by the end of the day. Wonder why I have high blood pressure. So I got to focus on doing repairs to the 96 Dodge which I got the MAP and TPS coming today from RockAuto. Then swap that truck out of the shop and stick in the Cummins. Now The only reason I'm betting this caught me totally off guard is typically I do a full creeper inspection of everything under the truck during my oil changes. This last one I was stuck with a catheter and couldn't do it so I had a friend do the oil change for me. Of course the inspection wasn't done. I would of seen the fuel weeping form the pump and diagnosed what was happening. I'm stuck just getting back to my shop and getting the work hashed out.

Dude, I'm not getting any breaks here. Got MoparMom to dialysis and then after dinner in Ontario my AirDog blows the fuse its locked up. Now finally get towed home last night yeah that was expensive and running through a snowstorm. I finally made it home and got to bed by 1am this morning. Now I'm up calling the hospital canceling my appointment till I can get repairs done on the 96 Dodge and get some sleep. I'm going to be train wreck today. I will admit that Kryptonite towing is awesome Derrick is a super nice guy and took care of us and got us home safe and sound last night. Hopefully, he made it back to Nampa, ID last night and didn't have much trouble. Now I'm going to be in repair mode getting vehicles fixed and going.

Very good questions... Like myself, I'm not convinced that these actually cool the transmission as well as many claim. Remember factory NV4500 with no coolers. Being I run all winter long and never reach 100*F with temp gun it more like 70 to 90*F. Most normal summer temps are between 140 and 160*F. I've only pushed it to 225*F towing but too slow, but now I understand the mechanics of transmission temperature and how to control it. I still to this day double checking with IR temp gun for temperature and still the run close together. Optimally you want to tow in direct (4th in NV4500 and 5th in NV5600). Even my automatic 46RE on the half-ton runs the same temperatures just about as the manual. It even got a full oil cooler and never tows much of anything now. Still, I can see 190*F in summertime traffic in Boise or Ontario. This is due to the amount of fluid thrashing the torque converter can do going light to light without lockup. The other problem most stick the temp probe at the bottom and this is the coldest place being heat rises. This gives a false feeling of cooling the transmission. When the probe is at the top of the fluid where the heat is. Like I found if you reach in with a probe style thermometer and get near the gear teeth this is the absolute hottest place. Then also being away from the gears this makes a false cooler number. I get the same measure with my IR gun shotting the bottom of the PTO cover. which is typically cooler than the top by the fill hole. Another factor is tires. Like myself I'm running the 245's this reduces a huge amount of stress off the gear teeth where LiveOak is running 315's on 3.55 gear which is HUGE torque stress on gears. Basically, his final ratio is 3.25:1 ratio to the ground adding a huge amount of stress on the transmission. Where I'm 3.69:1 ratio to the ground reducing the stress and cooling the transmission without coolers. Goes back to proper setup and gear that does way more than improper gearing and adding coolers to compensate. If he changed to 4.10 gears in the axles and kept the 315's he would be really close to 3.73 ratio and be much cooler on the transmission.

Considering the 245/75 R16 (30") was the early stock tire size then was changed to 265/75 R16 (31") later. Hence why the stock tire size was 245/75 R16 on the door sticker.

First off on HI there is no resistor. This why I want to be sure same voltage of the battery is present as the blower is on Hi and engine running. So, charge voltage is 14.5 Volts then you should see 14.5 or very close at the motor on HI.

Steering box brace is good for oversized tires and wheels because the leverage forces they create. Hence why I'm not required for the brace using 245's. Cause and effect...

Here is a cleaning video I did years ago. Then for the 12V injectors...

I don't have to see it... I've already heard about it.

RPM loss will occur. You have not increased the HP of the motor to blow more air so, a bigger blower is just going to run slower. Ohm something out has to be disconnected. Ohming the windings isn't going to do much. I would be looking at the voltage at the blower. Just some simple theory and math... You can draw the same 20 amp but at different voltages and the workforce will change. This why I'm looking for power issues first before modifying the blower cage. If the motor is underfed and the blower cage is increased the flow will decrease too because of the lack of power to twist a heavier blower cage. watts (work force) = volts x amps 240 watts = 12 volts x 20 amps 280 watts = 14 volts x 20 amps So if the voltage is lower than battery voltage on high this means there is voltage drop between the supply and the motor. You would have to insure that the blower motor was capable of getting the same voltage on HI fan as the battery is running.

I highly suggest you un-do the noise filter mod. Creates bigger problems with masking the problem and you'll end up eating ECM's and VP44's.

Timing wise you can run +3 up. 14, 17, 20, 23 What I'm liking is +4 up. 14, 18, 22, 26 You might want to just read my article on tuning...

Do not do quick ratio. Only use quick ratio on stock and smaller tires. Your running 285's. Wrong ratio for larger tires and places too much stress on the box.

I would look at a way to increase the blower RPM.

I sent my fsctory bodies in for new 7 x 0.010 VCO injectors popped at 320 bar. They will be at home by Wednesday. I rather build exactly what I want than buying something someone else built and not know anything about the injectors. I've ran into that few times and to freaky to install mystery injectors not knowing if they will be smoky, last good 100k or drop pop pressure in 20k miles. Custom builds will always cost more but worth it in the long haul. You get exactly what you want. No random 6 injectors dropped in a box.

That wild I lost my first set of u-joints in 20k miles. Dried out no way to live them. Had driveshaft shop install a carrier bearing he spotted an worn u-joint. He replaced it with Spicer sealed. If failed pretty quick like 30k miles. Grease-able tend to last a good period of time as long as I push out some of the black grease. 366k and rolling... Napa joints in my front shaft are over 100k now. Rear shaft is close but not quite.