Mopar1973Man

Good question attempting to find a 140 amp fuse?

Still in all the best way is to pull the HVAC case. All the flushing in the world won't fix debris problems.

Manifold temperature so you don't melt a piston. Aluminum melts at about 1,281°F. After the turbo is going to be much lower in temperature.

Timing will impact EGTs. Typical cruise timing should be about 19 to 20 degrees for 2,000 RPM. This will vary a bit truck to truck. Higher timing typically makes cooler EGTs. Being your using the MM3 you might need to tweak your tune.

Plugged heater core possibly too. With a 190°F thermostat it 163°F out of the center vents idling in zero degree weather. Even my 180°F is still cooking me in the cab.

Heck just good fuel management will do more that all the bolt on mods you can buy.

Red / white that comes in the cab.

243k miles on my last VP44. @dripley is going to beat me on the VP44 lifespan. ...and they said the NV4500 had weak input shafts and 5th gear nut problems. Never had any issues with either. I proved them wrong when I broke the mainshaft in half at the 3rd/4th gear syncros with nothing more than Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. I tend to take most of this transmission weakness as rumor now. As for all the transmission fears I don't buy into them at all. Now I'm running +75 HP injectors and Quadzilla which is way more power than Edge Comp and +50 HP.

I know @dieselautopower has that same book and he could answer the specs.

Comparing notes with @pepsi71ocean my injectors are about the same stages as his +100HP and getting low in the pop pressures.

Stay stock...

RV275 are ISB stock injectors for the RV series engine. Yes, they are VCO. You are better off getting a tuner before considering playing with injectors. Even RV275 are going to be smokey and laggy because of the lack of timing to fit the injectors. This was common back in the days before Quadzilla. There is no way to increase fueling without smoke when you are without a tuner. Jus the tuner alone will jump you forward +180 HP that is clean compared to a mere +40 HP of RV275 injectors that will be still smokey because of lack of tuning.

First I would fix all the external leaking. Even if it just the vent tube. Power wash the engine clean so you can be sure. The amount lost could just a fluke. Check again on the next oil change.

Now to source out a 10 AWG fusible link...

Air brake line is typically rated for 600 PSI bust point. Fuel and oil resistant. Where cheap oil pressure gauge kits typically get brittle and break with slight flexing. Air brake tubing is way stronger and more tolerant of heat and flexing. I've got roughly 4 years on my tubing still flexible and holding up good.

Agreed!

362k miles... Still rolling the odometer...

@IBMobile for our 140 Amp alternator what would you suggest for a fusible link for that?

Interesting...

Need to have at least 5 feet of tube between the last snubber before the sender for the gauge. This allows the pulses to fade out over distance of the tubing. The ISSPro EV2 gauge will come with a sinstered snubber as well. Stack that after the needle valve then 5 feet of tubing then the sender. NOTE: Grease gun hoses doesn't count. Too short of a distance and the flexible hose doesn't dampen any of the pulses.

Yes, you grid heaters are hitting. I would say the diodes are OK but I would do the W-T ground mod. On a grid heater hit I'm barely 29mV AC and idle no load is now about 12mV AC.

Remove the dash bezel. Then you might have to drop the steering column to remove the cluster but it held in by 4 screws. Once the 4 screws are removed you should be able to pull it out of the dash socket. Like mine won't come out unless I drop my column slightly to gain clearance.

In the yard no. As for in New Meadows, Idaho I drove there a nasty winter storm last night so bad it buried my headlight till it went nearly dark on me. HID lights don't have even heat to keep the snow off the outer plastic in a bad storm. That is my exhaust brake switch.

I've got to ask another wild question do you have a live data tool? if so take notice to the IAT temperature. If the engine coolant temperature and the intake air temperature don't match then more than likely the IAT sensor could be bad. It's possible for the IAT sensor to fail within specs and not trip an error code. But... The intake air temperature reports wild temperature could be very high and prevent the grid heaters from coming on. This poses another thought too. I know my High Idle Kit has the MPG mode which fools the IAT to show 143°F at key on the grid heaters will not fire at all. Then after starting the grid heaters will cycle in. I wonder if the IAT circuit has a homebrew resistor added as a fooler and causing the grid heaters not to fire. This could be seen with the live data tool as well it will report 143°F typically regardless hot or cold.

Even with the grid heaters running I max out at 29mV AC for ripple out of the alternator. That is full load on the alternator.