Mopar1973Man

Here we are worrying about lift pumps. I look at this way the truck fails for whatever reason. I'm better of getting to services then placing a phone call for tow or repair. At the point of failure, I see my truck as one thing shelter. If the weather is poor at least the cold wind is not blowing on you or being soaked by downpour rains or snow storm. If you got food and water and possibly a blanket you'll be able to relax and wait the storm out. Even if its just a simple flat tire. There is no need to get out and get soaking wet. Yeah, you can carry a spare belt if you want. I quit doing that because in 356k miles I've broken ZERO fan belts. I don't bother with the spare lift pump idea anymore. In 13 years of service, I've never lost a lift pump on the road. Typically those give warning like my AirDog was loud and pressures were dropping over a solid week. I knew it was dying. I do carry fuses. That a simple fix but if it blows twice do NOT insert the 3rd one. There is something wrong! Like my trailer blew the trailer fuse. then blew the second one. Yeap. The tail light shorted out and MELTED everything! Again even though some of these things appear like they can be fixed in the field are typically wind up not being to repair because you need another part. Just like my lasted I hitched up my RV in Parma, ID and dome light went out and the power mirrors quit. Wasn't a fuse problem and couldn't be fixed in the field. This is why I don't bother with a ton of tools (which I carry one socket set that's it!). I will not carry spare parts like belts because by the time a year goes by the belt is total beat up and worthless and still never used.

Jumper cables only work if there is a second vehicle. If there is a second vehicle your rescued. I typically have a cheapy set in the bed for the winter time. I've never need a jump start but I've given plenty to others. You could be waiting a very long time. Like Idaho country no longer comes to Riggins much anymore. The Adams country rarely goes north towards my place one in a blue moon. Hoping for a deputy to bail you out is not a good answer. With budget cuts in both country patrolling is no one of the highlights any longer. Fire starters to go along with the matches.

As for @IBMobile he lost his VP44 pump north of Riggins, ID leaving him dead on the pavement. No cell service and had to get a ride to Riggins by a passing deputy.

LOL... You would be stuck. Even traveling through my home area there is no cellservice for over a 100 mile span of the canyon. Ask @IBMobile he learned really quick even though he was right on US95 and just north of Riggins, ID by 8 miles there was no cell service to get help with. Like the New meadows tower only has service for about 12 miles total and it gone.

Never carry any tools or parts. No sense in it. Every time something has happened to me in the backcountry there isn't a tool that will fix it. Like for example breaking the main shaft of the transmission. Unit bearing failed. None of this stuff can be fixed along the road. What I do pack is everything to ensure my own survival. 2 MRE's (Meals Ready to Eat) 2 half gallon jugs of water Extra jacket Gloves to keep my hands warm Cigarette lighter and matches First aid kit Mutli-tool Poncho or tarp GPS Flashlight & batteries So when this happens... You know the list above will keep you alive till you can get to safety. It wont do you any good to have a bunch of heavy tools if the part that failed you don't have. Like I said before whatever fails typically you don't have the tools or the means for repairing in the backcountry. Now the truck is dead and not moving can you ensure your survival?

I would skip the Smarty and think about the Quadzilla. Just have a dealer flash the ABS computer. With your rev/mile value. Smarty S-03 would be fine if you plan to be stock for life. It will not work if you increase injector size and you'll need to adjust timing more advanced which Smarty won't do.

Then you would freak out to the thought I've been using "creek water" and "well water" for 16 years and the cooling system is perfect condition. I've NEVER used distilled water ever in my cooling system.

What are you getting for MPG now? What tuner (if any) are using? What size injectors are you using? Well it shouldn't it should help with MPG a bit bring down the RPM vs MPH. Like I'm running 3.55 axles with 245/75 R16 tires and that gives me 3.69:1 ratio. I'm right at 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM in 5th gear. The biggest thing that is getting me in the 19 to 20 MPG range is the Quadzilla Adrenaline I'm cranked up to about 20 to 21 degree of timing between 55 to 65 MPH. Stock ECM timing is about 13 degrees which is just way too retarded.

Might be dreaming. Like 6BT engines are in the range of 17.5:1 and CR is 17.3:1 compression. Yeah the VP44 SO engines have the lowest compression in all the series. I think a big part of it is the timing. Stock ECM will retard when the IAT rises above 80*F. This makes the engine quieter. So a cold start will be audibly louder because timing is racked up to 21* on a cold start. Then high cetane fuels make this worse being we are already be blended with high cetane fuels. This is why 2 cycle oil typically reduces engine sound considerably because of the oils natural cetane reducer and member have measured a considerable drop of engine noise volume. Comes back to ASTM testing labs comment... The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to ensure maximum fuel availability."

Be aware of the spacer weakness and failure rates. The calculated gear ratio is going to be 3.82:1 to the ground. With the DRW axle its going to reduce traction because the pound square of axle weight will be spread all out and it will be extremely easy to spin the tires.

Bingo. Discharge rates have to be limited as well as charge rates to keep the venting under control with AGM batteries. Where a lead-acid has a much wider range of operation, handle larger loads for long times and discharge at quicker rates. Then lead acid can be charged much faster because moisture loss can be replenished. Your talking about a mere RV. I'm talking about a 3 bedroom, 2 bath 2 story house. Powered by a 4kw inverter for the last 20 or so years. Hydro and solar powered.

Might consider a different intake. Remember Bank intake is design for the 24V and VP44 pump, not a p-pump. You'll have to consider a different intake that is designed for the 12V p-pump engines. The curve is different to fit over the lines.

I'm assuming that you only leaking coolant and not mixing oil and coolant right? If so the gasket and seal change is rather straightforward. Remove what you have to get workspace. Next, you spin off your oil filter and unbolt the oil cooler. Replace the seal and gaskets and reassemble. Now I'll warn there is a seal under the lower radiator neck on the block as well so verify the leak source with a coolant system tester on a cold engine and follow the coolant trail back to its source. Like my last coolant leak happen to be the passenger rear corner of the head gasket. This is way more involved than a oil cooler gasket. This brings up another subject to make sure to change coolant on a regular basis. Don't rely on the 5 years and 100k miles coolants even these don't make it that far. With the Mighty Cummins requiring a large current draw to fire up the engine, the negative polarity is rushing through the coolant and charging the coolant. This will make it corrosive. Hence the gasket failure. Make sure yo flush the block out really well and reload with fresh coolant and fresh thermostat.

The only thing that is different... HO is 17.0:1 compression and the SO is 16.3:1 compression. Then the HO pump is higher pressure and less volume where the SO pump is high volume and less pressure. Injector wise I think the 235 and 245 injectors are 0.0001 of a difference of hole size. Other than that, it's the same engine...

Maybe that why I've never had kids nor been married yet.

Too bad PenzOil doesn't have all the specs too.

Nv4500

Mine was the reverse of JAG1. My old 1972 Dodge Powerwagon required monthly wheel bearing packing, old school drum brakes so long downhill grade cooked the grease really easy. The the quote auto-adjust brake were flakey at best. Then with add on of 265 tires and breaking the outer stubs and wheel joints, the bigger tire cooking the grease out more with long downhill grades. I'm glad those days are behind me. I just done my first joint at 356k miles on the passenger side and my second set of brakes are still 50% with 180k miles on the pads. Ill get better than 200k on the front brakes.

50 SAE is also GL-4 fluid.

Ok... Here you go...

Welcome back, stranger... I've got to admit you've proved they are quality products to reach 1.3 million without any serious oil related problems.

This is where I poke at the thread a bit more. How does a person like @cajflynn go 1.3 million miles on nothing more than Fleetguard filters and 15w-40 Delo and changing oil every 20k miles? Nothing special about the oil, nothing special about the filter, and nearly extending the change interval to nearly 3 times the book value?

Before, stock OE lights After, Super Bright LEDs

Now that's it true dark out those LED's are about 2 to 3 times brighter looking.