Mopar1973Man

P0216 code... ECM has nothing to do with it. P0216 code is caused by... Is your pump gear still in time? Like this member had it off by a tooth. What's your fuel pressure like at highway speed?

That would work excellent on a cold engine when all the oil has ran to the pan. This is an updated gearcase... That is a first for me to see the pump gear off by a tooth. I know people mention that it not possible to lift the gear high enough to skip a tooth.

Here is the CCD Network bus. You can see the Central Timer, Radio, Instrument Cluster, Airbags, ABS and Overhead console. The PCM is the master controller of the CCD network. ECM is companion module.

Why buy a kit? Just buy a fender washer, a tube of grey silicone, and front crank seal. Take the fender washer and shape it on a grinder so it like a teardrop. Pull the bolt and install the custom tab. Install a new crank seal and re-seal your cover. Your done.

KDP problem is from 1989 to 2001 model year Cummins engines.

Any standard error codes on the OBDII port?

Electrical problem for sure. The cluster is still getting power but PCM isn't fired up so the bus is dead because the PCM is not powered.

I can tell you that lifting the head is a two-man job even with an engine hoist. As for the Head gasket job isn't really that hard. It's time-consuming. Basically, all the fuel rails have to come off on the driver side. The passenger side the exhaust manifold and turbo come off and remember to pull the injectors. Then the head you need to pull all the rockers and the push rods. There is two rubber plugs in the cowl for lifting the push rods out for 5 and 6 cylinders. Unbolt the head and team lift that beast off. Now just need the head to be taken to a shop and checked for cracks, then made true flat again. While its there I highly suggest valve guise and have the valve seals dealt with. This is about $1,000 just for the machine work. Head gasket kit is right around $150 if I'm not mistaken. Then its just reassembly at this point. Clean your deck really good and place your head gasket down. It will only go down one way because of the alignment dowels. Now carefully place the head on the block again and make sure it seats on the dowels. Start your assembly process... First time... Removal with a friend was 3 hours. 2 days on assembly. I had help to place the head but that all. Rest was on me.

I've seen one dealer invoice for 2002 truck with a gear case replacement because of a KDP. Typically the end of the line is 2001. Just that fluke that a few 2002 trucks ended up with an old school KDP case. I've checked mine and have the updated case already.

I'm going to tag @Dynamic on this maybe he's got an idea on the problem.

Ok.. I'm going to fully agree with @dripley on this. Dodge Ram truck, if you use the dimmer part at all like dim 50% brightness or lower the dimmer itself will get extremely hot. I'm going to have to say the rheostat part of the headlight switch is shot and the entire headlight switch will have to be replaced.

Just make sure to never let the can flip upside down. This will dump liquid freon on the suction side of the compressor which can possibly cause a hydro-lockup of the compressor. Can be rather explosive.

It takes 3 cans of freon to make them cool. What is happening is the can is freezing up and quits producing gas. This is where I get a 1 gallon ice cream pail and fill with hot water and place the freon can in the water. The pressure will rise sharply in the can so it's best to have a manifold gauge set.

Looks like you get to do a head gasket job.

Did you load the system with green dye and check with a UV light if the dye was leaking back out? Might have to blast out the nipple with a bit of brake clean to start clean and to check if the dye is leaking back through.

It shows the commanded timing by the ECM which for idle is 12.86° BTDC. Like back when my VP44 got stuck at full advance it still only showed commanded timing event though the timing was maxed out and the truck was rattling to beat the band. Barely could do 25 MPH home. So you only see what the Quadzilla commands or ECM commands.

Well CR engine has the absolute best control of fuel and timing. Being there is no mechanical limitation like the VP44 where you have to pump fuel on a cam lobe. Yes, EPA has there had in this where its possible to preload the cylinder and then have the main event happen after top dead center.

No. As you seen in my picture you have to remove the entire HVAC case so you can flip it over and remove like 15 Phillips screws. Then you can open it up and remove the heater core and evaporator and wash the entire case out. When I do go that far I lube the pivots of all the doors so they don't stress the vacuum motors or the stepper motor.

Actually since its common rail that mean all injectors have constant common pressure. This means if the injector(s) wear out and start to hang open this means those cylinders will be sprayed with fuel all the way through the 4 cycles of the piston. Intake, Compression, Ignition/Power, Exhaust. The injector never closes.

Just wait... That little oil leak will cost you later. As the oil soaks on the rubber mounts like engine mounts, transmission mounts and even like me currently the control arm bushing. It will rot the rubber and typically will cause transmission mount tear. Engine mounts will sag. Like in my case the control arm is now clunking where its mashed the rubber.

The fact you looking at about $3,500 to just replace the injectors. BBI 0.5 Stage injectors (mild increase) https://smartyresource.com/store/product/32-bbi-injector-set-stage-05-03-04/ True new Bosch factory injectors. https://smartyresource.com/store/product/64-2003-2004-stock-bosch-injectors/ No one around here has $3,500 extra laying around for injectors. I know of at least 2 trucks that are now parked and no longer used. You can buy a used Ford Ranger truck for that much... Here I am with a older 2nd Gen... For ten times less... https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-75hp-aftermarket-performance-injectors-7x0-0085-vco-vp7x85vcoa

Reason why...

Now that changes the topic a bit. Like my experience with tire I was always the miser type looking for the sales and cutting cost figured the same thing. Tires are tires. Nope. So wrong I learned. As you start to reach back into the name brands like I found Hankook ATm have a harder compound and wear like iron. Where cheap tires are much softer compound and tend to wear quickly. There are two tires I tend to avoid now is the Cooper STT and the Toyo M/T being they are both made the same great tread pattern good for offroad use but extremely heavy because of the extra steel belting for protection offroad. You'll lose on average about -2 MPG for these tires. This what bought me back to A/T which was a good mix between road radial and something that could handle snow, mud and such. Still the compound of the rubber need to be hard enough to give long life. Back in the motorcycle days. I use to keep a set of R compound tires on hand (Racing Compound) typically lasted about 7k to 15k miles and then were spent. Extremely soft compound and excellent traction. When I finally gave up illegal canyon racing and street racing I changed over to touring tires. They are so darn hard of a rubber I had troubles changing tires by myself and typically sent the wheels in to be changed for me. @Greenlee I would suggest weighing out your truck and you'll see what I mean about axle weight and tire stance. Now measure out the contact patch and figure out your weight per square inch. Another way to look at it if you going to crawl up on a weaken roof typically you would take a sheet of plywood and slide up on the roof first. Then you can stand or kneel on the plywood without the risk of falling through. Again another example spreading your weight out to prevent falling through. Another tidbit. If you walk into any flooring store most will NOT warranty flooring against stiletto heels. Why? Even if you have a 120 pound woman which is not much weight at all but when you amplify the force of a 120 pound woman into a 1/8 inch square that makes that downward force somewhere 900 pounds of force in that tiny heel and it can shatter ceramic tile, poke holes in carpet, and even dent hardwood floors.

Still pointing to AC noise issue common to see on a manual transmission truck. Like on my truck if fouls the tach signal and the ECM sees the AC noise for a moment the revs up past what I'm commanding for speed the AC noise frequency shifts and then the throttle cuts even though my foot hasn't moved nor has the TPS signal changed. But the RPM signal on the OBDII port is all over the map up and down.