Mopar1973Man

Won't happen. Being the ECM timing curve is way too retard for most driving styles. There are only two tuners that give full control of the timing and fuel curves now. Quadzilla Adrenaline and the Smarty UDC. Hands down the Quadzilla Adrenaline gives the best control of the VP44 for the money. Smarty UDC is way too expensive and way too complex for most people here to even dive into the UDC tuning. Quadzilla with a handful of numbers can create a good tune. Being that most your time will be spent at about 12* to 14* BTDC timing with just a ECM tune. Now with the Quadzilla I'm floating 20* to 21* BTDC at 55 to 65 MPH. Then problem is once the engine load (commanded fuel) is above about 18% to 20% stock your timing falls off into a blackhole which now creates more EGT's and slight rises in boost pressure which is not needed at cruise state. My current Quadzilla tune drops the EGT's as low as 450*F at 55 MPH and boost falls to nearly ZERO this brings the engine load down as low as 15% (commanded fuel). I'm floating 20-21 MPG now and pushing upwards.

Be careful some of these can be just as dry as the fuel itself. No to mention raising the cetane and reducing BTU's. After clearing 243k miles on my last VP44 with just 2 cycle oil I seriously doubt any other product can do as well at lubrication. As you can see this timing piston was galled up badly. I had to heat the pump body with propane torch to just remove it. The timing piston movement are based on fuel pressure and lubricity. VP44 is having timing piston issues. This is just about what mine was doing when it failed at 243k miles. Mine was horrid in the failure being it was in full advancement with heavy knocking and max speed of 30 MPH then when it let go it would run fine for at least about a mile then the timing piston would stick again. Power would drop pulling my max road speed down to 30 MPH with heavy knocking. When I got home you could smell the hot blow by from the excessive timing. Still got me home 15 miles away though.

I can say without a doubt I'm going to keep the 245's for future tire size. I'll never look back at 235's or 265's. You know how people whine about 5-speed transmissions and you have to wind it up tight to get from 3rd to 4th. Then people claim this is why the 6 speed came out for better overlap of gears. Well, guess what? With 3.55 axle gears, 245/75 R16 tires and NV4500 transmission, the gear has serious overlap now. I'm in 4th gear as early as 25 MPH and 5th gear by 35 MPH. No joke. Way better power and spread of gears. No need for winding uptight anymore. I can do the majority of my trip now in 5th gear that includes winding through the canyons. City stuff tends to be mostly 4th gear. 2nd you basically launch in and 3rd gear is long gone by 15 MPH. As for fuel mileage, I've got to grab my fuel logs and crunch some numbers but I'm loving the idea I might start skipping the fuel station on Thursday. The last trip There and back I was right at a bit below quarter tank used. Power wise if I downshift one gear, pound the throttle allow the Quadzilla to hit the 15 PSI limit for the wiretap when fuel comes on the whole rear axle starts to wrap up and tires start to break loose on dry pavement. The power is quite impressive. Even in 5th gear, it builds speed very fast. Downshifting is not required anymore. Steering wise it feels much lighter like my 1996 Dodge 1500. Kind of steering where you can hook your single finger on the spoke of the wheel and control with one finger for miles. No double grip, no saw steering, no fighting, straight as an arrow and smooth. Easy to steer with that Bluetop quick ratio and the 245's.

Most likely either the cowl or the front of the fender near the headlight. I don't know any others.

If your running on CANBus tune I doubt the wire tap means much. But if you tune has the wiretap starting at zero boost then maybe.

P0216 code is a timing piston code. More than likely the Quadzilla called for some advancement and piston bound up. See if getting pump up to temp helps and add a shot of 2 cycle oil to the fuel.

I used the existing ground screw for both the fuse and relay.

Check the field wiring for shorts to ground.

No speed signal will be given. Module Masters will rebuild that ABS module for mere $130 and 5 year warranty.

There is a scale in Nyssa, ID also that I hit as well. Then in Council, ID the Shell station has a scale just ask before using she'll write down your numbers.

Should be all listed here in the thread.

If he's not starting in first there should be error codes. Then you should be able to manual select first and get first.

Either speed sensor or the ABS module needs rebuilt.

Welcome Greg.

I'm going to assume the rear axle speed sensor is failing. If the speed gets above the governed speed limit which I think is 110 MPH then the defueling occurs.

Kind of risky being above 20 PSI some people have had the front seal blow out from excessive fuel pressure. So have ran 40 PSI but just risky.

Here you go... Door jamb is for max capacity weight to pressure. What about if you not to gross vehicle weight well my formula will figure that out for you.

Completely empty 2nd gen system is just about 2 quarts. The steering gear box alone takes nearly a full quart to itself.

That little tube is for ventilation for the blower motor. It to route cool air to the motor winding to help keep them cool. Way too high look much lower. The heater core hose nipples are the top the HVAC case. The drain is near the fold in the metal on the firewall. Below the A/C accumulator and just towards the fender a little.

I'll keep my Diesel truck, thank you. I don't need to die in one of Telsa's death traps. https://www.theregister.co.uk/2018/06/07/tesla_crash_report/

Normally the A/C drain in the HVAC is just a plastic stub poking out if the firewall. Typically the water dribbles back into the cab through the foam rubber seal. As for the water dribbling from the body metal joint is rather odd. Unless the water is pooling under the carpet and draining back through a hole into that area. I would lift the carpet up and check the floor and body metal for damage as well.

@Quadzilla Power is right 3.90 version is correct I just remember seeing the previous version my bad.

Thankful for old school mechanical injectors. Makes it easy to clean up and reassemble and fix many of these little problems. Where with a CR injector I'd never suggest messing with.

I'm being lazy laying on the couch, watching TV, surfing the website on my phone. Soaking up my first cup of morning mud.