Mopar1973Man

@Dieselfuture I'm going to bet your valve guides are worn and that why you're having an issue with needing tophat style valve seals. I've just run 250 miles round trip to Ontario, OR and my blowby is greatly reduced. The engine runs super smooth now. No startup oil smoke anymore. I've run hard down, cruise set at 65 MPH and did a few 40-45 PSI passes reaching 95 MPH with no problem. Even this morning I left the truck outside because of the power steering and fuel dripping. Let the grid heater hit and fired up with the typically blackish/white puff of smoke which turned over very light haze of white as the engine warm up it vanished.

If you are near me I'm been known to bring out my CCD Network tool of @Chris O. I've been known to set tire sizes for people. I've got one of his BETA units. That how I changed from 265's to 235's then now to 245's tires and kept odometer accuracy. I've ran alot of China tires. Never have I had a blowout or sudden tire failure. I've even ran Black Lion tires which are China made as well. 235/85 R16 Load Range G's. (3,750 pound rating at 110 PSI)

If @Chris O. finishes his CCD Network tool we will have another tool that can calibrate the ABS speed.

NAPA sells the brake cables. I tend to replace mine either yearly or every other year just depends on how fast the cable rust up and break. Idaho changed over to straight salt on the highways 3 years ago.

Been a 3 wire sensor for the entire span of 1998.5 to 2002... I don't know of any single wire sensor on our trucks there is either 2 wire for temperature sensors. Then the pressure sensors like MAP and Oil have always been 3 wire.

Another website I tend to surf of mechanics that report all the weird stuff they come across. (Secret resource...)

This should help.

Here is a bill for total replacement of a 2016 Focus Hybrid electric motor. I could rebuild my Cummins 5 times for this bill. Even CR injectors could be replaced several times.

@Quadzilla Power I'm back in action again. I need to know if there was another update you want me to try. I've got a few minor issues to deal with other than that the Cummins is running and doing quite well.

Your welcome.

I think the ISB is a plastic cooling jets if I'm not mistaken. There is an upgrade for metal cooling jets.

Hankook ATm 245/75 R16 now. Hankook ATm 235/85 R16 previous set. 235's have done excellent in the past and extended the front suspension lifespan considerable. Now see how the 245's hold up to the test of time. Like I'm heading for 200k on these ball joints. 245's should extend the brake pad life. I can already tell the brake performance is better with the 245's over the 235's.

After just having my oil line off for the head gasket it was still clean.

Ummm... All Cummins engines have oil cooling jets.

Dealer or wrecking yard. At least it doesn't have to be a diesel just any 2nd Gen will work.

Yes. Like I said just set the fuel map for 100% across the board and your stock fuel rate. Then set the timing for what you want. Again you just want to inch up the timing just enough to reduce the engine load. MPG tune on stock fuel...

You got to start somewhere... Like my A/C business I did the right thing and hooked up with the local Chevron station which happens to be a NAPA supplier as well. Now they stock my freon for me and I sell it for there price. So, Steve Crump (the owner) makes money on the freon I make money on the labor. Being I've done him right (free A/C work) I still to this day get all his referrals which typically keeps me super busy to the winter time typically. Now my reputation from the website has kept me going with VP44 replacements and Cummins work for the last 5 years. Like I'll go meet up with a few people today and they will see the head job I've pulled off and gives people confidence in having me do the work for them on their vehicle. Basically, dive into your 24V Cummins now put in the effort into making it run perfect and beyond stock without failure. Like the thread about CR injector failures. When I go into Riggins, ID people spot my truck and typically grab me to ask a bunch of question on their trucks. Those 3 people were asking about starting and performance issues on CR engines. All 3 have failed injectors. It pissed them off but it is what it is.

Ummm... What to do you think I do? I do the very same thing. I also live in a rural community too. The closest diesel mechanic is 50 miles away. I've got my own area to work with doing odd jobs. Insurance? What the heck is that? Never had any. The scary part is "Mopar1973Man.Com" is a registered doing business as (DBA) name also have a sale tax ID with the state. This gives perks of being able to buy parts at wholesale prices.

You could just set the fuel map to 100% all the way and the Quadzilla is on a stock tune. Then you can play with timing too.

Level 0 = Stock ECM Level 1 = Valet Mode Level 2 = CANBus fuel only to 100% Level 3 = CANBus fuel Level 4 and up are wire tap MPG is about finding the lowest engine load with timing. Most will say 19 to 21 degree for timing will produce the lowest engine load.

Be thankful. 24V is fully dynamic timing. The 12V p-pump is static timing. So if you set a p-pump for 14 degree that is the timing you get across the full range of RPM. Where 24V with the Quadzilla you can get a max now of 32 degree across the full range of RPM. 24V way easier to time. Fire up the Quadzilla. As for the P-pump you have to have the timing kit. Basically remove the #1 delivery valve on the pump measure the lift of the plunger. You have to pull the gear and relocated it on the shaft and tighten the nut without turning the pump shaft. Timing kit isn't cheap either. DAP timing kit. https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-cummins-timing-kit-9498ctk

Thanks for mention of the vent. Lot of people forget the vent.

Better get out the checkbook for tools. Being that all tuning is mechanical this means you need the proper tools for setting timing, etc. You thought your 24V is retarded the 12V factor timing was around 11 to 14 degrees with no advancement. Most have to advance the timing to improve the performance. Fuel wise its done with fuel plates and adjustments. DAP has adjustment for the fuel plate for in cab.

The only problem I've got is a minor fuel leak that is at the rear. Either number 5 or 6 line. I also want to replace the sealing washers on the return banjo.

2WD where you live? I say no. You'll end up parking it most of the winter or running chains.