Mopar1973Man

The problem is finding where the oil is coming from. Is it truly the valve seals? Did you buy the truck used? Did the previous owner run it hard? Excessive high EGT's? Are the seals just baked and harden? Rubber seal are not going to last forever. Like all other seals on the engine rubber will harden and start to leak. So if you going to buy a new truck are you willing to go to the 4th gen? Because any 2nd gen you buy at this point will all need to address age problems unless you pay big money for a truck that you know has a freshly rebuilt engine and transmission. Just things to think about. One of few reasons I still hang on to my truck because I can't swallow the idea of $4,000 every 100k miles for CR injectors or take the risk of eating $5,000 worth of engine washing out a cylinder or two.

Quadzilla is $674 Reman'ed RV275's $379 Only $295 more for the Quadzilla. Heck even my +75 (7 x 0.0085) Injectors are $349

You'll find out that if you that far you might as well pull the head and just do it right. The thing is I never knew the seals where there in the head till the oil was drained off. Chances of you finding the seal bits with the head full of il is going to be thin. Then if you going to pull the springs then you got to pull all the rockers and have the compression tool. The cylinder would have to be at TDC to hold the valves from dropping into the cylinder. So now you got to pull the injectors just to check for TDC of each cylinder. Heck at that point just pull the exhaust manifold and turbo and unbolt the head. So either commit to doing it right. Or just let hang in there till the problem worsens like my cases the oil smoke was producing a fairly large cloud and burning at least 1-2 quarts in 7k miles. Then at the same time my head gasket started leaking.

Bingo...

The only way you going to find the seal bits is dig around with your fingers. I never seen the bits of seal till I tipped the head and let the oil drain off then the seal bit showed right up. Most likely find 5 and 6 cylinders with the most. Then you need the valve compression tool and take the springs off and check and see if the guides have excessive play. If the guides are worn then replacing the seals will not hold up. In my case I'm glad the head gasket went. It would of really sucked to do all the valve work to replace the seals and then just find out that I'd been the same boat as @Dieselfuture where the seal would of been damaged again by the wobbling of the valves.

A bit of tweaking to the timing making a small retarded area to get spool up faster and the jump into advancement but keep it down around 19* total at cruise. This will help a bunch with launching smoke and EGT control too. Then fuel map start out about 90% and work your way up 1% per 1 PSI of boost then after 10 PSI than you can step up 2% per PSI.

Ummm that is part of the reason I pull the head and had it reworked. I had failed valve seals. Valve guides start to fail and valve wobbles and the seals get damaged.

Easy to answer if your normal highway speed is 65 MPH then 3.73 final ratio would be optimal. This would put your at a perfect 2,000 RPM's at 66 MPH. This has just been pushing my MPG just over 21 MPG just before I parked for the head gasket. Quadzilla Adrenaline

4 choices... 1. Deal with the ugly faces and pissed off people and possible smog violation. 2. Change out the wheels and tires to correct your final ratio. 3. Spend the big money on getting the gears changed in both front and rear axles. (about $4,000) 4. Change from the Edge to Quadzilla and add some lag to your daily fuel map to control smoke,

Final ratio to the ground is 3.39 to 1. So your very tall geared...

Basically, with Ibmobile he's got 30" tires (245/75 R16) and 4.10 gear ratio in both front and rear axles the means it takes less fuel to get rolling and spools the turbo faster so smoke is not an issue. Basically the 245's tires change the 4.10 gears into 4.26 gears making more torque for the tires. Now with 265/75 R16 tires and 3.55 gears in the axles, your much taller gear and takes much more fuel to launch and spool so smoke is now more common place. Now with 265/75 R16 tires and the 3.55 gears is factory SLT package. So you are 3.55 final to the ground. Now if your tires are larger the ratio number goes lower so by the time you reach 37" tires your final ratio is 3.00 to 1. This makes the truck struggle and smoke is typically way worse. Optimal is about 3.73 to 1 to the ground. Basically 245's tires and 3.55 gears.

There is most likely a gear and tire difference between @IBMobile and @leety . I know Ibmobile is 4.10 gears with 245's. But I'm not sure what Leety is running. This will make a difference for smoke.

Edge EZ is easy to remove. There is power, ground, MAP sensor and CANBus lead. Unplug all that its gone. Quadzilla will hook up the same way except for 2 extra wires. There is the wire tap for the VP44. Then the extra keyed hot lead into the dash fuse panel. You do have the optional fuel pressure and trans temp. Then EGT gauge hook up.

The problem is the Edge EZ fuel map is design around only the stock injector. So now that you step up ot the RV275 there is no way to remap the fuel curve versus boost to control the smoke. This why people like myself in the early years raved about RV275 injectors and Edge Comp because you gain a good amount of power be could clean up most of the smoke with the limited setting you had. You couldn't step up above +50HP because of the smoke issues. Now that I dropped the Edge Comp and replaced with the Quadzilla the +75HP (7 x 0.0085 VCO) that I've got installed I've got cleaned up to near nothing for smoke starting my fuel map BELOW stock fuel at 80% and rising up from there. Then with the timing I'm able to push a bit more advancement to get more fuel burnt in the cylinder and without pushing out the smoke.

@Dynamic I know he would know the exact answer... Myself I would check for error codes. Then hook up a live data tool like an OBDLink LX or similar and now with the key on and engine off. Watch the TPS display as you slowly squeeze the throttle if it does jump or drop suddenly or trip error codes the TPS is not the cause. As far as what I know 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear shifts are all hydraulic. 4th gear is electronic. You might look at the fluid condition and check your throttle valve cable adjustment. If it too tight or too loose can change shift behavior.

They are done. 100k you're basically already lost most of your pop pressure. Like my stocker injectors are 150k miles and down to 240 bar when DAP tested them. They are basically junk now or good core bodies. My current injectors are closing in on 100k miles now and I'm planning on having my old stock bodies set up with 7 x 0.0085 at 315bar again. Then hang on my use injectors as spares.

Take a few split shot fishing weights and put them on there. That will take up the slack.Then you can test if you are getting a full pull. You might pull the cover of the bellcrank and check the way it is now and see how much split shot you need and adjust accordingly. Side note, I would address that hydro booster and get it rebuilt its leaking power steering fluid on the inside.

Here you go.

Already have Mopar Performance PCM and the timing is running a full 40* cruising down the highway. It requires 91 octane now I'm sneaking by with 89 octane.

354k miles here. I'm not going to complain. Rather common for head gaskets at 300k to 400k range from talking to people. Yeah there is people that get more miles but nothing out of the ordinary for my head.

Truth is they are not just a pet or just a dog. They are a family member! They are part of your life and family. When they are gone it leaves a hole in your life. Just like this morning not having to do certain things anymore and not having Diesel push my bedroom door open when my alarm goes off. Things like this you miss... Seems simple but still part of your life.

One of my favorite times with Diesel. He always loved to get a good howl on when we traveled in the truck or vehicle. Like this video I was driving an 8 speed Frightliner that day and going be hauling hay. Diesel, later on, was able to howl with me as travel on the road. @Taz is in the background with a deer horn whistle...

UDC = User Defined Catcher In other words you program everything in Windows and save on the SD card then the Smarty Touch flashes the tune into the ECM. I know @AH64ID is a Smarty user, @4Play is another Smarty user.

Not smarty Jr... Smarty Touch UDC.

Smarty Touch UDC would be the tuner for CR engine.