Mopar1973Man

Yes its totally safe to wash the entire engine. I've been doing for 16 years on my truck with no harm... Just compliments about how clean my engine is all the time.

Could of been a weak connection between the fuse and joint connector #2. A weak connection will make heat.

Head over to the OBDII error codes and do the wire testing.

Yes. So in the OP case the joint connector #2 is the weak connection where the hotspot burned the joint connector. Also the problem line will be the one that took the most heat.

Typically something gets hot because of a few problems. Weak connection, rusted connection or corroded connection. Wrong fuse used or too high of amperage. Like I was talking to @dripley on the phone last night and reminded him of the 1970's fuse issues we had in the past. Like my old 1972 Dodge pickup was popping the blower motor fuse (now I know that means the bearings are failing). But... I knew that I had to use the proper 20 amp fuse for that circuit. End result was the blower motor fuse and wiring went up in smoke. Did you know that glass cartidge fuse were given up because of double rating for the blade style ATC fuses? What caused my failure in the 1972 Dodge was that I grabbed a 20 amp 120V fuse and not a 20 amp 12V fuse. What the difference Wattage it takes to blow the fuse. 120 volts x 20 Amp = 2,400 watts to blow the fuse 12 volts x 20 Amp = 240 Watts to blow the fuse So the circuit had 10 times the power now and I let the Magic Smoke out of the Wiring. Back to the OP issues... You can have a weak connection somewhere and mass amount of heat is generated from current flow. Back to the weak connection issue.

No. Grid heater is outside the entire PDC system with its own fusible link on the battery terminal. Most likely you have a bad grid heater solenoid in the mix too. Hard to tell now being the truck is gone.

No. It's about the fact the blowby in his case was the block cracked.

Time to ohm test wiring. For the P1689.

Basically that is a CANBus connector that only talks to the ECM. Typically all the tune information is jacked in as a priority message which overrides the ECM information. Now if you were to be using Quadzilla you would understand more about what information is on that CANBus.

What I've been told by my rebuilder "Yes." Now as for most here will say used PenzOil Synromesh oil. Basically PenzOil technically is a GL-4 fluid but it's too thin to make the rating.

At least I could verify this one. I went through RockAuto part listing for 2000, 2001, and 2002 Dodge Ram and the only year that changed was the 2002 Dodge which is a single pin oil pressure sensor. The only thing I can assume is that the ECM is still the standard 5V signal to the sensor and the ground reference is from the block itself like the older 1970's Dodge oil pressure sensors.

@dripley mention the same thing about a TSB...

I got to say Thank You to @dripley ... He's taught me something today which I've got to pass along to all you. The 2002 Dodge Ram truck have only a 1 wire oil pressure sensor. The wiring diagram is incorrect for the 2002 trucks and does NOT have the Orange or the Black/Light Blue wires. Now looking at the 2001 and 2000 model years are 3 wire oil pressure sensors. I've even gone down to my truck and checked and sure enough only one wire the black/light grey.

Behind the fuel filter housing. There should be a large box mounted to the driver side of the block.

I'm pretty sure Vulcan has 3/8" line fittings too. You'll have to call and ask him.

Here you go... Joint Connector 2 is at the top. As you can see its a power feed. for the ECM and PCM. Double check your fuse #3 make sure its the right size. As you can see the devices in this map. Watch for the connection DOT those are connected but lines without the dot are not connected.

Vulcan Performance has Parker Push Lock Tee for fuel pressure.

You asked.

Looks like you might have to beat the case out flat on top just a bit and drill a fairly large hole for that insulator to slide down inside. If you figure it out you gotta make the article for the website article database.

Ummm... You might want to look into the plugin I use on Chrome. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/grammarly-for-chrome/kbfnbcaeplbcioakkpcpgfkobkghlhen?hl=en

Not being able to keep the stud from shorting out. If your game and willing to gamble. you could try and modify the case to fit but I wonder if it will work out.

Not unless you have a deep groove. Even then you have to get a special seal now because the sleeve is making the crank thicker than stock. Like mine the dust lip left a groove so I just push the seal in just a fraction deeper and ran it. That might be a mild PITA. That fan shroud with the 4 studs needs to be removed to get the radiator out. Once the shroud is out then the radiator will come out fairly easily . LOL... Same on my Asus laptop too. The keys just don't feel right to me yet.

eCigarette will fit in either port for charging if its USB.

Sucking air into the system possibly? Suction lines will not leak outwards. They continue to draw air in and never show any sign of leaking. Now @JAG1 has a trick of using a shop vacuum where you hook up the hose for blowing. This should push enough air into the fuel tank to keep pushing fuel in the lines to hopefully push it out your leak. If this is not enough pressure you can use compressed air with a blowgun and a shop rag and put 1 to 2 PSI worth of pressure in the fuel tank hopefully so a second person can spot the fuel leak.

Take a can of brake clean and spray down the area with the engine hot so it evaporates fast. Now idle the engine and watch for where the fuel is coming from. I just got done with the same issues. Between the return rail at the back of the head and a few loose injection lines I was dripping off the rear of the head and running off the bellhousing. The brake clean will make it clean and dry and allow you to source out the fuel trail and where its coming from. I know its frustrating to have fuel dripping off the engine.