Mopar1973Man

Actually, this is stacked in with the Airdog relay to cut the power to the fuel pump during cranking. So basically when the starter is running the relay opens the power wire to the lift pump. Typically the ECM does this for you by pulsing the power wire 50/50 and this causes the fuel pressure to fall during cranking.

Easy. Cut it so its flat to the bottom like you see mine with a thickness of one quarter (coin). No quarter tank issues. The fact is you need to the measurement with an empty tank because as the tank empties the bottom rises up to the straw closing the gap. So keeping better than a half tank of fuel open the gap between the tip of the straw. This allows the straw to pick up every drop of fuel. Being that diesel is typically 6.1 pounds per gallon this places 106.75 pounds on the tank bottom at half tank, and only 53.37 pounds at a quarter tank, then 26.68 pounds at a 1/8 of a tank as you can see the plastic would deflect upwards to the straw again. As for the sump be careful offroad you can swipe that sump off the bottom of the tank ruining both the tank and the sump both. Leaving the truck stranded until you find a new fuel tank. Let say some local boys here learned the lesson for us.

Simple solution. Test the alternator for excessive AC noise measure the AC voltage at the BATT post of the alternator and ground. You might end up replacing the alternator diodes or alternator completely. Now do the W-T ground mod. Or the simple version...

Need a fuel pressure gauge. Typical cranking pressure for me is 7-12 PSI. Normal idle pressure is 17 PSI and WOT is 15 PSI. I would have never installed the sump bad idea. Just wait till the sump start leaking the only solution will be to replace your fuel tank and they are very hard to find. Not to mention some areas consider bottom draw illegal might check your local state laws. If sumps were legal all the newer trucks would have had them installed from the factory. I've been using the old school drawstraw now for over 13 years and 250k miles and ZERO issues. Not a good idea. If the alternator fuse blows it will wipe out the fuel pump because the alternator will ramp up to well over 48 volts when the PCM no longer sees charging voltage. Airdog should be hooked up to the PDC BATT terminal. This way you not hooked up to the batteries direct with corrosion issues but as close as possible to the battery. The ground I use a body bolt for a ground.

New fires... Island Bar Fire started yesterday on the Salmon River. Vehicle-caused growing rapidly. Basically running down the east side mountain range. Sad part this burned 3 years ago with the Teepee Springs fire. Then Midvale, ID has a fire currently burning. Council, ID has a fire burning. Banks, ID is burning yet. Not good, it's smoke everywhere and still hot as hell without ice water. Resources are very limited. Our Fire Dept was going to demob last night from the Rattlesnake fire. Kind of a good thing having the resources back and ready to jump on the next call. I've got to talk to the fire chief about a few truck repairs.

Give Jon a call and talk to him he's got a bunch of mods like oil cooling holes drilled in the case and clutch mods to make it more bulletproof.

Should of the HX35 turbo on for those injectors. You don't need a turbo till you get to about +100 HP for injectors. 7 x 0.010 would be a good start for that current turbo.

Talk to @Dynamic he does rebuild kits.

Same here boost pressure is skewed above 20 PSI. Then EGT is about 50F high on the Quadzilla compared to my ISSPro EV2.

Ummm... Well yes and no... Some trees will torch and if there is no pitch trail on the bark typically the tree does OK as long as the temperature doesn't exceed 140*F that is the kill temperature of the needles. So if the fire has short flame lengths and moving long the ground slowly then most likely the trees will survive. Now if it was like the IA (Initial Attack) there was trees torching up and would light up the valley like the sun came back up at 1am. Within about 1 minute the glow would fade back to black.

You are doing the right thing by having the Quadzilla checked out. Being the truck is running fine without issues with the Quadzilla removed.

Shows how far my sense of humor has fallen off since the smoke is affecting my brain cells and lack of sleep.

Welcome Dylan. You might fill out your signature with all your modifications done to your truck so we know what you have. Then we can help you better on tuning. As it stands I would say bigger injectors. Injectors are too small for what turbo you've got. 7 x 0.010 would be a good start. I'm running 7 x 0.0085 injectors (+75 HP) now with a HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12).

I've not found a reason to even replace my OEM water pump after 350k miles. Still going strong. The biggest thing is coolant flushes, fresh thermostat and making sure the radiator face is clean.

I do think its rather strange that they placed the sprinklers in my yard instead of up on the hillside where the fire would be burning. Like I've currently got my sprinklers set up and going behind the house and keeping a huge area wet. With 4 sprinklers I've managed to make a wet line behind the house.

It would be chicken and potatoes if we ever get together...

Then yes you are going to want to do a full cold air intake to keep the EGT's under control. I would put more effort into the intercooler though. Being that is the biggest factor in controlling IAT temps more so than cold air intake really. Here is that calculator for ya. Now you can see in theory how each affects the temperature at the intake. http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

Not much, if you average boost is 2 PSI. Way different if you running WOT and racing. Again we are talking daily driver. Not 1/4 mile track star. There is little to no effect. Not the same topic... But if you want to see some really wild IAT take a peek at my 1996 Dodge 1500 V8 5.9L it normal for about 150*F to 170*F gasoline engine no wonder I need 92 Octane with a Mopar Performance PCM. Cold air intake is in place but has much higher IAT... No intercooler... Funny though IAT can be traded they are the same sensor... 120 to 140*F on my diesel seems like child's play.

Being there is IAT calculator that can, in theory, give you fuzzy math of the IAT with intercooler you'll find that normal highway driven Cummins typically has a very low turbo outlet temp close to the inlet temperature. Once it hits the intercooler it will be close to the outside temperature. So 90% of the temperature is based on the intercooler the inlet temperature really doesn't make a huge difference for highway driven trucks. Being I monitor IAT and Outside temperatures closely and rarely ever see a crazy IAT increase. Still pretty much always a +30*F IAT for 100*F weather. Even idling for 3 HOURS my IAT never rose over 135*F with the outside air being 103*F. Once I got rolling it dropped with air flow not a bunch but like 125-127*F. This is totally normal for 2nd Gen for summer temperature to range in the 100-140*F range. BHAF and stock air box will result in the same values. Daily driver. No real change will be seen for BHAF or Stock Air Box sucking from the fender. Now Racing... That is a whole new battle and rule set. Yes IAT has to be held down for EGT reasons...

I'll challenge that bet and say that Stock Air Box will be the same IAT as BHAF. Being that IAT temperature is based 90% on the Intercooler and not where the turbo is sucking from. Yes, I've still got my stock air box. Very easily prove that myth...

What?!?! Riggins from Google Maps. There isn't a cornfield for over 120 miles of Riggins, ID. North in Grangeville ID is all wheat fields typically. Then South is typically onions and corn in the Ontario, OR area.

Be aware that that fuel data is BETA and not functioning very well when my last trip home shows I'm only making 4 MPG.

BHAF has about 3 times more filter area compared to a stock panel filter. I really doubt there is any loss to BHAF but there is a limit of how far it will reach typically the boundary is around 600 HP (generally speaking). There are people that reached past this mark with good results too.

Website like this, and the knowledge of fixing up an 2nd gen to be more reliable than a new 4th gen. 2nd gen truck and becoming highly sought after and the collector's item.