Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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First off. PCM is the primary computer and the ECM is secondary. Either computer can shut down the engine. The P1694 code most likely points to bad CCD Bus between the ECM and PCM. You might check the PDC box and that big connector that is bolted down. When you tighten again be gentle it doesn't take very much tension to ratchet tight for it. Being it starts and runs with a hot-wired VP44 but not with the ECM that tells me there is an issue there at the ECM. The fact the WTS light is not coming on points to ECM that is failing to boot up completely. Basically, if you don't see the WTS light when the key goes ON then the ECM is not booted up and is brain dead till it does light up. So check again make sure you are seeing the WTS light before starting. Without that WTS light, the fuel pump relay will not trigger power to VP44. It will not start or run. You mention the possibility of security. You would have to check the central timer see if its a high line or standard. High line has the security feature typically and the key fob. From what I know if the security is set it should start at all and that is controlled by the PCM. -
Hello to you sir from way across the ocean. It's been a while since I've had someone from EU. Bring us your problem and we'll do our best to help solve it.
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Let's put it this way it's so rare to trip a P0168 code that I can only find a few posts on CF of people getting past 160*F. I think there is only one post here long ago that someone tripped a P0168 code. Quadzilla is much more of a tuner than Edge Juice. Both have the cooldown timer but Quadzilla can be either time based or EGT based where Juice is strictly EGT based. Then Edge Juice is canned tunes you can't modify the tunes at all. Take it or leave it tuner. Quadzilla can be programmed for many types of road conditions, performance, etc. The solder topic went around years ago on how they dropped the lead from the solder and it was making bad solder joints. To this day I think that was an isolated problem that I've never seen again.
Quadzilla turbo timer could be used the same way by setting the EGT shut off limit to 275 or 300*F and the engine continues to run pulling heat off of the engine till it reaches that shutoff point. I've noticed even on hot days it will pull the coolant temperature down to 188 to 192*F even if I pulled in and had 200*F coolant temperature shown it will cool everything down. Being you dumping turbo heat into the oil. Then the oil cooler dumps into the coolant. Then the coolant dumps into the air. Even yesterday I only topped out at 135*F fuel temp in 100*F weather coming home. Just getting all the heat off the engine helps a bunch. I rarely see much gain of fuel temperature.
Fuel pressure sensor does not pick up the temperature. Only pressure readings... Fuel temperature is measure INSIDE the VP44... The black tone wheel pickup on the right side of the picture is what gets the fuel temperature measurement for the Quadzilla. It's buried inside the VP44.
Ok I know several members have done this mod and said it was easy. It sure is easy. It takes about 2 hours from start to finish to complete this project. You'll need the terminal lugs and the metric bolt that @W-T specifies in his article. First thing disconnect your batteries. I unhooked the two negative leads. You need to gain access to the loom going across the front of the engine. So you'll need to remove the upper alternator bracket and the the two loom holders on the front of the block. I did this during my coolant flush project so my upper hose and thermostat are removed. If you have my crankcase vent that will need to be removed as well. Now I started at the battery and the alternator and started unhooking the wiring from these devices bring it forward. Now you start working on getting the split loom off the wiring. Start at the tape with a small exacto knife or razor blade and carefully split the tape to release the plastic split loom cover. Carefully remove it. I found out mine was brittle after all the years of engine heat. Once you remove all that slpit loom you can again split the spiral tape holding the loom together. Now you show be able to have both the ground lead and the alternator charge lead loose now. I will admit the alternator lead took a bit of work to release at the knot of tape on mine where it breaks out of the loom heading for the PDC. Just take your time with your razor blade and your get it released. You can clearly see the splice of the ground just like @W-T mentions in his article. Once you get the alternator lead out in one piece. Then the ground lead I used a pair of wire dikes and cut the ground right at the end of the splice. Now the alternator lead I reused the wire since it was in excellent condition. I mocked up the alternator lead by hooking it back up to the alternator like it should be and gave it a nice loop of slack then cut it to meet the positive battery terminal. On my terminal lugs, I took a hacksaw and scored the plastic collars and peeled them off for soldering. Then slipped the lug on and used a propane torch with the low flame and soldered the lugs right on to the wire. Good sold weld and this will seal the wire from future rot from battery acid and vapors. This is the completed alternator connection now. All I did was grab an old nut and stacked on the battery terminal. Now we are going to do the ground side. Now trim back the old splice and free the ends of the wires. Now strip back the wire so you can fit the wires into a lug. Again I did the same thing I took the hacksaw scored the plastic collar and peeled it off the lug and then slipped it on the wires and prepped it for soldering. Again just slipped the lug on the wires and low flame with a propane torch I soldered the lug to the wires. Now I cut the old plug off the splice on the passenger side ground and then trimmed the length of the wire with the plug so it would reach between the driver side battery and the gear case. Same again I peeled the plastic collar and slipped the lugs on and soldered with low flame propane torch. This gives you an idea where the wires go. Take your metric bolt and attach the ground wires to the case. Then the ground cable to the negative battery terminal on the driver side. Beyond this is just clean up. Now you need to tape up your loom again. I'm going to replace my split loom with smaller size being the old loom was brittle and was breaking during removal. The only thing that should run across the front of the engine now should be ECT sensor which is a twisted pair. The A/C compressor, A/C high pressure switch and the alternator field lead. Before AC noise level was 0.038 AC volts now after the mod its dropped to 0.015 AC volts. View full Cummins article
Ok I know several members have done this mod and said it was easy. It sure is easy. It takes about 2 hours from start to finish to complete this project. You'll need the terminal lugs and the metric bolt that @W-T specifies in his article. First thing disconnect your batteries. I unhooked the two negative leads. You need to gain access to the loom going across the front of the engine. So you'll need to remove the upper alternator bracket and the the two loom holders on the front of the block. I did this during my coolant flush project so my upper hose and thermostat are removed. If you have my crankcase vent that will need to be removed as well. Now I started at the battery and the alternator and started unhooking the wiring from these devices bring it forward. Now you start working on getting the split loom off the wiring. Start at the tape with a small exacto knife or razor blade and carefully split the tape to release the plastic split loom cover. Carefully remove it. I found out mine was brittle after all the years of engine heat. Once you remove all that slpit loom you can again split the spiral tape holding the loom together. Now you show be able to have both the ground lead and the alternator charge lead loose now. I will admit the alternator lead took a bit of work to release at the knot of tape on mine where it breaks out of the loom heading for the PDC. Just take your time with your razor blade and your get it released. You can clearly see the splice of the ground just like @W-T mentions in his article. Once you get the alternator lead out in one piece. Then the ground lead I used a pair of wire dikes and cut the ground right at the end of the splice. Now the alternator lead I reused the wire since it was in excellent condition. I mocked up the alternator lead by hooking it back up to the alternator like it should be and gave it a nice loop of slack then cut it to meet the positive battery terminal. On my terminal lugs, I took a hacksaw and scored the plastic collars and peeled them off for soldering. Then slipped the lug on and used a propane torch with the low flame and soldered the lugs right on to the wire. Good sold weld and this will seal the wire from future rot from battery acid and vapors. This is the completed alternator connection now. All I did was grab an old nut and stacked on the battery terminal. Now we are going to do the ground side. Now trim back the old splice and free the ends of the wires. Now strip back the wire so you can fit the wires into a lug. Again I did the same thing I took the hacksaw scored the plastic collar and peeled it off the lug and then slipped it on the wires and prepped it for soldering. Again just slipped the lug on the wires and low flame with a propane torch I soldered the lug to the wires. Now I cut the old plug off the splice on the passenger side ground and then trimmed the length of the wire with the plug so it would reach between the driver side battery and the gear case. Same again I peeled the plastic collar and slipped the lugs on and soldered with low flame propane torch. This gives you an idea where the wires go. Take your metric bolt and attach the ground wires to the case. Then the ground cable to the negative battery terminal on the driver side. Beyond this is just clean up. Now you need to tape up your loom again. I'm going to replace my split loom with a smaller size being the old loom was brittle and was breaking during removal. The only thing that should run across the front of the engine now should be the ECT sensor which is a twisted pair. The A/C compressor, A/C high-pressure switch, and the alternator field lead. Before AC noise level was 0.038 AC volts now after the mod its dropped to 0.015 AC volts (or 15mV AC). About the parallel cables... There is lot of folks being told they NEED the parallel the positive and negative cables. To test if you need that or not. Take a good quality DVM meter capable of DC mV scale. Now place a Black probe on the battery terminal and the red probe on the block (clean metal). Typically I see 3mV (0.003 volts) after doing the other part of the ground wire mod. Now take a set of jumper cables and go from the negative post to negative post. Also check the AC noise voltage with the jumper cable hooked up if there is no real change then you do not require the parallel cables. If the voltage drop is the same with the jump cables then you do not require the parallel cables because there are ZERO improvements. You can do this on the positive side as well. If there is a voltage change my first thought is to replace the BAD cables first before paralleling on a bad cable. All you do is covering up a bad connection. Adding the extra cables will not improve anything if it's not changing the voltage drop from point to point. Addon: Protection fuse or fusible link Some members are suggesting to install a fusible link or fuse of the same size at 140 Amps on the charge lead as a protection method. Just in case for some reason the diode bridge happens to short the positive side to the ground and doesn't start an engine fire. As for the size of the fusible link is still unknown as of yet. The factory is 140 amp fuse. The fusible link would be better suited than a fuse. I've found a few trucks that is incapable of doing a circuit breaker because of mystery loads and causing the breaker to trip prematurely. Fuse will solve this problem but make sure to carry an extra fuse. Addon: Resettable Circuit Breaker I picked up an inexpensive 150A circuit breaker from Amazon. The breaker does the job but over time the breaker will get weak and trip prematurely. I still favor the circuit breaker over a fuse for the alternator protection. Fuses you might go through several and be left high and dry without a spare and unable to drive home. Make sure you buy plenty of spare fuses if you go that route. Even with my backcountry travels I still trust the circuit breaker better.- 35 comments
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Soon to come... W-T simplified ground mod article. I did mine without buying very much stuff at all... All wire was reused!
Would be better to see the fuel temp sensor inside the pump core. Either Edge Juice or Quadzilla display this value.
135 days later, still no truck.
Pretty simple to diagnose. Fuel pressure gauge and error codes. Fuel pressure should be between 14-20 PSI all the time while on the highway. Error codes will tell you if there is any damage to the VP44 electronics or the timing piston.
This would be in @Me78569 realm he would know a little about the VGT turbo setup.
Exactly. Good fuel pressure is the biggest thing. As long as the fuel pressure is in the range of 14 to 20 PSI you should be fine.
Hmmm... The only person I know of here that might know something might be @Me78569 ... Not sure...
Actually over in Tahiti chickens run wild. Most people just go out and pick up a chicken along the road. That's if you can catch it before running into the brush.
Most all fuel system today replace most if not all the stock fuel line and banjo bolts. Like FASS and AirDog I know for sure replace from the fuel tank to the injection pump. I would suggest to keep your stock fuel filter and get the big line kit from Vulcan Performance so you not deleting that stock filter.
I'm going to be in line to replace my 10 year old Kenwood MP3 stereo some day. I was smart long ago and bought a single DIN dash plate and then the plugs for the wiring so all you got to do is basically plug in your new stereo and bolt it down. Takes a lot of work out of the figure. As for steering wheel controls, we had a guy on here attempting to use an adapter for his new stereo and it didn't work. I've got a AUX port in the face and that works out fine for now since I've got my cellphone jacked in and can play MP3 from the phone, make phone calls through the stereo, even while I'm out in the truck I can watch movies on my cellphone and enjoy the rich (stock speakers) sound system. Much better than cellphone speaker.
Tricks I've learned about the Mighty Cummins. Strange but true if you want to cross a deep snow drift do it in reverse. Sound weird but the light weight rear axle will get right up on top a snow drift and the heavy front axle will follow just fine. Done thing a bunch of times to keep from chaining up for 20 foot long snow drift. Then have dirt on the other side. I've had friends try it and works! It always best to go out and experiment with your truck early in the snow season to work out any bugs and traction issues first thing. Typically I go down to a wide turn out and play a bit with icy conditions and get used to the feeling of the truck sliding. Manual transmissions typically work much better than automatic. You can travel a gear high keeping your RPM's lower and the torque low. This allows you to walk farther and control your travel without needing much more than 4WD at the worse. I was doing a search for my photo I did years ago when I was out playing in a controlled environment where I buried my truck and had to dig out. Can't find that old photo.
Oh boy this might get really interesting. I would start with the power steering fluid. But I've got little hope for it to do much good. Basically, the best thing to do would pull both steering gearbox and the hydro booster and get a rebuild or seal kits and full take them apart and clean them out. I'm going to bet the two parts are full of sludge. If you want to do flushing you might as well buy about a gallons worth of standard power steering fluid (NO ATF). Then disconnect the steering gear box return hose from the back of the pump and plug that port on the pump to keep the fluid in. Now route that return hose to a waste pan. Now with the front axle off the ground, engine off, the key to OFF position not LOCK. Now cycle slowly from lock to lock. This will pull the fluid through the geat box and hopefully push out the debris and sludge if any. Keep filling the reservoir up and continue to flush until the fluid coming out the return is just as clean as what goes in. Now hook up the return again. Now cycle lock to lock with the reservoir full to push any air out before starting. The hydro booster is not much you can do but change the fluid a few times till the color looks good again. As for the pump is if still making noise you might have a problem with either the hydro booster or the steering gearbox with something partially plugged up. If you purchase any parts for the system make sure to blow all the old fluid out of the system before hooking any new devices up. Most will void the warranty if there old fluid or debris found.
Correct. I'm assuming the gel help pull the heat back into the fuel plate below. You can see where I use my blow gun to attempt to blow off a chip of plastic when I pried the PSG open and it dropped on the gel. The gel is like a thick clear grease just about.
I've seen everything... CPU heatsink and CPU fan mounted on top Bulge blower tube routed to blow air over the VP44 Even air dam tubing created to blow air over the VP44 Transmission cooler use for cooling fuel The list goes on... The funny part is the aluminum cover is a just protective shield to the PSG electronics and will not absorb any heat. The electronics are actually heat sunk to the fuel below. The electronics are attached to the aluminum body facing the fuel. All the air and heatsink methods do nothing. As you can see there is an air gap between the plastic cover and the electronics. Without the aluminum cover...
Mopar1973Man replied to oldhippie66@comcast.net's topic in 2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / PerformanceI think the common factor is everyone just jumps out and buys parts because everyone is buying this or that. Truthfully you have to build to fit all your hardware. Like you can just go out and buy a big turbo thinking you going to make a gain. Turbo is based on the amount of fuel being burned. Then tuners and timing also affect the turbo behavior. I've was taught long ago with V8 Mopar's you can't just take a stock 400 CID with a 2 barrel Holley 600 CFM carburetor and drop on a 1050 CFM 4 barrel. There has to be supporting mods to make that carburetor function its best. That brings us around turbo, injectors, and tuners. This is only the surface. Then you got to factor in tires size, gear ratio, transmission type, lift kits and truck common purpose. Still to this day I'm slowly been working the power up a little at a time and find what is weak or what needs to be upgraded. Still to this day I see people jump out and buy a huge turbo, set of large injectors and a tuner. The lift kit the truck and put on 35" tires and then wonder why it smokey, breaking driveline parts and has no MPG now.
When was the last time you flushed the power steering fluid? (Suppose to be flushed every 30k miles) When was the last time you flushed your brake fluid? (Suppose to be flushed every 30k miles) Remember the power steering system has no filter so any debris will start plugging up ports and orifices in the hydro-booster and steering gearbox. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it will pull moisture from the air. This typically starts the process of rotting out the master cylinder and calipers (wheel cylinder if you got them). Then the rubber starts to degrade as well. This is why fluid turns black. Power steering and brake fluid is not a lifetime fluid then should be changed on a schedule.
Another to add to the collection...
