Mopar1973Man

Mine is the same design back in 2006 when I bought the AirDog 150. I've got a failed AirDog Raptor (DDRP) on the shelf and its got the same gerotor design too.

You should be able to see and feel the break in the wires.

Need to ditch the tuner and jump up to a Quadzilla Adrenaline. The biggest thing you have ZERO control of the timing and very little if any control of the fuel. I'm able to touch 21 MPG with just the Quadzilla and no wiretap for one year. I know this is going off track a bit. Like my 1996 dodge 5.9L V8 I'm running 235/85 R16 tires on 3.55 gears this makes the final gear ratio about 3.43. Now after doing a bit of study work I'm going to change on this next set of tires from 235/85 R16 to 245/75 R16 which will drop my final gear ratio to 3.72 roughly. This will reduce the load on the engine. Now in your case you rear gears at 4.11 so what size tire are you running so I can find your final ratio.

I think its 1/4" nipple size for that main vacuum line.

Here you go... https://invisioncommunity.com/news/product-updates/invision-community-43-r1055/ Then on top of all this, I just got done dyno running my VPS Server couple weeks ago. Yeah you can dyno run a server too.

If you like what you see... Just wait... I've got a new version coming with more features. 4.3.0 version is coming soon.

I've got to ask what size tires are you running? Then do you tow heavy trailers? My OEM NV4500 went 265k miles before breaking the main shaft in half at the 3rd/4th syncro. Now I've rebuilt the transmission and now have 70k miles on the new transmission and no signs of 5th gear nut issues. I never had a 5th gear nut issue even on the first transmission.

Like this... Select the text you want to quote then hit the Quote This...

P0121 code is basically the IVS is not agreeing with the APPS value.

No.

Just to let you know the AirDog Raptor is a gerotor pump. There isn't a diaphragm in these pumps at all.

As far as I know, there is no way to create a lope tune...

For sure that scanner isn't seeing both computers for some reason. Still could be a MAP sensor or CANBus problems. But it would do better to find out about that error code.

Just a change of plugins I would use that's all. The software meets current HTML5 and CSS3 requirements. Basically, we have a skeleton and just need to dress it. I just drop the "Forum plugin" for the "Pages plugin" that's all. Kind how I've got Prevail Web Managment there is no forum. Software based website is much easier for the owner to manage and less headache of keeping up with the code requirements and SEO requirement. This is why I like the Invison Power Community for the software. It cover every aspect a business would need. You can start small and grow into the software adding plugins as needed to meet your needs. https://invisioncommunity.com/ I'm pretty good at SEO being just M73M (Avg 9-11 position) and Smarty Resource (10-12 position)I've been cranking the score pretty good. The bad part is part of that is based on the age of the domain name so starting fresh there is a lot of other factors we must deal with to make it score well fast. Links from other sites and content must be text RICH. I'm a smaller website than the rest but able to take them on several different topics to the #1 placement on search. I've got at least 42 queries that I place in the number 1 spot out of 1,000. https://www.google.com/search?q=nv4500 hard to get into gear https://www.google.com/search?q=98-99 dodge hd steering I've done Google Adwords and Facebook so far and each has there place and bonuses. Google Adwords tends to hit a wider range of people where Facebook is good for younger folks.

My truck the box last 338k miles before needing the input seal replaced. The sad part is I can't do a seal kit because of the amount of rust and how tight the input cap is now. I sent my steering box back to @Blue-Top Steering as a Core. I'm not going to mess with it. Now since I did get to see the inside of the gearbox. After all those miles I've got ZERO wear on any parts. No sludge build up either. Very clean because of the 30k mile flush I would do. I've only adjusted a few times. Even when I remove the gearbox it was like driving a NEW truck back in 2002. The key here too long life of the steering box is two things. Fluid flushes every 30k miles. No oversized tires.

I've been running Quadzilla Adrenaline a full year untapped. Just leave the wire off and tune. I built my CANBus tune to reach 21 MPG in the dead of winter. No wiretap at all. Just strictly CANBus tuning.

Also makes for stable pressures from idle to WOT. Smaller the line size like 3/8" hose now the pressure starts dropping more. Stock lines are barely 6mm ID and even smaller in the banjo bolts. Really restrictive so the demand volume tends to outweigh the supply volume and pressure drops bad like 5-10 PSI.

Not a quality tuner. I would ditch that. If it creates errors on the CANBus it can create a dead pedal event if the values are out of range. I've seen two Banks tuners act really goofy and weird creating all kind of strange things. Unhook then no problem ran fine. Hook them up and dead pedal, limit power on the top end. Unhook and back to running strong. My last pump lasted till 243k miles till the timing piston jammed full advanced and threw the P0216 code. Limped home at 20-30 MPH just knocking like 6 mechanical trying to beat there way out with a 6-pound sledgehammer. Keep going...

I was just thinking the same thing that he should get away from the smarty S-03 tuning and move over to either Smarty UDC or Quadzilla to control fuel to boost numbers. That is one thing a Smarty S-03 is kind of short in is fuel control for big injectors. Bingo. Not only that you don't need a PC and do all your tuning on your mobile device. I'm currently sitting on a Smarty Touch. But Can't really use it till I find a Windows PC. The Canned S-03 tune will be smokey and timing map will be all wrong. Being Smarty UDC doesn't work on Linux I'm stuck till I can get a Windows PC just to be able to tune this Smarty. Till then the Quadzilla Adrenaline does it all without a PC and has 3 times the power of a Smarty Touch on a 24V Cummins.

Yes. If you are not using a lube in your fuel the lifespan typically is about 100-150k miles and pump typically wears out. This could be an injector dropping pop pressure or air being drawn into the fuel. I would vote for air in the fuel possibly or maybe on a reach... Maybe valve lash before jumping towards that VP44. After all this I would look towards the injectors acting goofy. Bosch RV275 don't mean that they all popped the same and flow the same. Could have one popping low. If all this checks out you could try the pump but it don't sound like VP44 time for me it still starts and runs. Typically when a pump goes they don't run or barely run. Mine would barely run and only drive 20-30 MPH WOT with heavy/nasty timing knock.

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Go for the full 1/2" lines. 3/8" tend to see a bit more pressure up and down changes between idle to WOT. I rarely see more than 3 PSI from idle to WOT!

Opps... I guess the thread I pulled on DieselBombers has a conflict of info. I would follow Vulcan Performance.

No. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm