Mopar1973Man

Then I would have to suggest that you jump ship and head over to https://smartyresource.com/forums/ and ask over there. I know that none of the staff will suggest any tuning but the rest of the forum members should be able to help out. You can ask @AH64ID he's a big Smarty Tuner guy and might be able to help out.

No. You must remove the Smarty tuner module set up the PC software program your tune and flash it back to the Smarty tuner. Quadzilla is Live. If you make the changes on your cellphone or mobile device the tune becomes active INSTANTLY. No again this is all done in PC software on your computer at home. Again you plug into a USB cord to flash your tune to the Smarty tuner. Now on the Quadzilla this is live where if you can safely plug in a change of variable it will flash the tuner as you drive. Quadzilla will show timing in real time. Both tuners have data logging ability. Just there base tune maps that's all beyond that it's up to you. MM3 would be without tunes at all.

Bingo... Absolutely correct.

Smarty Touch (60 HP tuner) https://smartyresource.com/store/product/39-smarty-touch/ Quadzilla Adrenaline (180 HP tuner) http://quadzillapower.com/products/adrenaline/adrenaline-with-iquadbt-for-android-devices/

Even more in depth. I'm supposed to be doing work with SmartyResource on building up tech tips and so for 24V Cummins. But my Smarty went back to Portland to be looked at (no communication issues). It way more in depth over the Quadzilla. Quadzilla is much easier for newbie tuner vs Smarty Touch which takes a lot of consideration before just tweaking the tables. Again all these tunning options go away as soon as the VP44 gets swap with VE pump. Then you'll blindly fight tuning and expensive tools for timing and constantly getting dirty working on the timing all the time.

I would do the gears first. Then the whole tuning aspect will change so don't do any injectors or turbos till you get the gearing done. I'm betting the turbo(s) you got now are too big.

I think I'm getting it.

Again the confusion sets in. But you look at your graph... In all cases, it's 2.5* timing pull. But above you stating 1.5, 2.5 and 3.5* of timing pull? Maybe why I never play with this setting because I still don't understand the math behind it and how it functions.

I think he's thinking 3rd Gen track bar. Typically the ball stud fails on 2nd Gen track bars.

Most likely won't need the turbos after re-gearing the axles. Perfect RPM range for towing on 37" inch tires at 65 MPH.

Absolutely its called rolling resistance. Final gear ratio of 3.00 is way to high of rolling resistance and put a huge amount of load on the driveline and drivetrain and the engine so the net result is high EGT's as the truck is pull ing in a super high gear it was never design for.

Change the gears to 4.10 if you not towing. 4.88 if you plan on towing. The whole EGT problem will go away. Looking cool on 37" inch tires comes with a huge price tag. It will be about $4,000 to re gear the axles. I've just finished this project with a local gent with 37" tires. Now the EGT's are good and low and the power is super.

37-inch tires on 3.55 gears is a final ratio of 3.00:1 which is WAY TOO TALL geared! This will create a HUGE amount of EGT's. For towing performance, you would want 4.88 gears for 37" tire for towing.

That what I was going to ask you why have I found 3 people with the seal hanging on the shaft and blown out of the pump with 30 PSI? Then diesel fuel just dumping in the gear case?

First off you running 37" tires. What is your gear ratio? Hopefully 4.10 or higher.

Might be differences in ECM programming from 1999 to 2002 like on my truck if I disconnect the grid heater line it does trip the CEL.

1989 to 2002 Dodge Cummins engines will do over 1 MILLION miles without a thought. Its the Common Rail 2003 and up that have a hard time getting past 100k to 300k without eating a piston from failed injectors.

So have I on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 I've got to replace the rear drum on the next brake service.

This is one of the reasons I tell people to just write down the number and come back the OBDII database here and look up the codes. OBDII 100-999 should be generic but some of the Cummins stuff doesn't fit exactly right. OBDII 1000 and up is supposed to make and model specific and most of the hand held OBDII readers report weird stuff on these 1000 and higher numbers.

Exactly. As long as the APPS is at idle position then the ECM is direct control of idle speed. APPS sensor is not the cause. We do need the error codes use OBDII code reader most 2001 will only report PCM codes and then stop on the key trick.

The only thing over there is the blower for the HVAC system. I would drop the blower and inspect the blower. Lot of times objects and debris fall in and roll around into the blower.

Sure is. Man, I love it when I just pull my cellphone out of my pocket and set my timing. On a VE pump you have to buy the special dial gauge that screws into the center of the pump. This measures the plunger lift and timing. Not a cheap tool. Way easier to just grab my cellphone and Quadzilla iQuad app and set the timing to what I want. If you take look over at 3rd Gen at the Smarty UDC tunning you see what Smarty touch can do for the VP44 trucks.

ECM is fried first off. I would test for AC noise from the alternator. Then clear this code and see if it comes back. If it does the other codes are most likely from the AC noise of the alternator killed the ECM.

You might try to track down @Cowboy he's a 12 valve guru of sort and last I remember he did a port job on his 12 valve head. So he would know about the head gasket job.

Ok. Then please explain how the front seal pops out of a VP44? I've seen 3 reported after having high fuel pressure.