Mopar1973Man

There is a few flush kits in a can where they basically just basically screw the can on and pull the trigger...

I'm not going to touch this... The truth though is the only reason why there is all these problem people are paying 60-70k for a truck are not willing to gamble much with modifications not to mention taking the chance of voiding the warranty. Now if we had prices down to what we paid for our 2nd Gen's then I would jump in and buy a 4th Gen and learn how to make then better without deleting them. That's cheating. Kind of like p-pumping a 24V to ditch the ECM and VP44. So since no one is willing to modify or be there own warranty station on a 4th gen. So here we are complaining about 4th gen problems.

Minnesota... Like myself, I'm in the backcountry of Idaho. Man, I hate it when I got to drive to Ontario, OR or Boise, ID. I'm so ready to bail out and head for the mountains and get away from the crazy people of the big cities. Yes, I've got neighbors but I've got a good margin of space between us. Shot this photo from 5 miles away on east side mountain ridge. I've highlighted home

I tend to agree with @IBMobile . I would consider replacing the compressor wheel. While you got the turbo removed why not just rebuild it with fresh bearings. Bearing kits are less than $100 bucks and really easy to rebuild a turbo. Then I would pull the tube from the input of the intercooler and see how much of that foam rubber is in the bottom of the intercooler or possibly stuck in the tubes. I've been here before too so don't feel bad...

More of this series...

Might be just the lift pump driver is damaged in the ECM. Find the plug for the lift pump near the ECM and test for power after bumping the starter.

Could go ahead and ask our site transmission builder. @Dynamic is a good transmission man and might be able to help out.

Could be that the pump is installed wrong or the dogs on the vacuum pump or the power steering pump are damaged and not spinning the pump. you might have to check. Also that why I prime the pump by letting the steering box pull the fluid through by vacuum. When the axle is up and you go lock to lock the valve is open to apply power but there is no power there so the vacuum of the steering box will pull the fluid through the pump to prime it up.

I'm assuming this is brake hyrobooster and power steering pump. Typically I prime the system but filling the reservoir and with the front axle lifted off the ground, engine off, key in the OFF position. Now go lock to lock to pull the fluid through the system. The other problem is when a pump fails typically it pushes debris every where plugging ports and orifices in the steering gear box and the hydrobooster. You can verify the prime by leaving the steering box return off and continue to go lock to lock till fluid appears at the return.

Betcha they are replacing ball joints and tierods often. Then like you mention the economy must suck being the rear gear is way lower now and out of the optimal ratio. but hey... I T L O O K S C O O L

Welcome to the family of Cummins Nuts! We've got all types here from daily drivers to performance nuts. There is plenty to learn...

I see this kind of "Cool Factor" every where from totally slammed to the ground to jacked up a mile hifgh. To aggressive rake. No matter how you slice it the geometry of the front axle is trashed and the performance is junk.

Sometimes I wonder...

Just the rear hoist ring with two 15mm bolts. Just pull all the 10mm bolts holding the injection lines. 8mm bolts in the injector hold downs. Apps sensor and intake horn. That's about it.

Takes me 1.5 hours to change out injectors on a hot engine. Ask @hex0rz about his swap I did at 7pm at night in my yard.

Post it again. I ran into the same problem with Mopar1973Man High Idle Ads and second time they let it go.

From his signature. As I said... Alters the final gearing... https://mopar1973man.com/topic/13623-2000-to-2002-steering-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=171749

Crap. Then ask DAP for a set of o-rings.

Ahh... DAP injectors come with new o-ring included.

That is for maximum payload. Check out my article on tire pressure it will get you really close to right.

Cummins would be one spot but my experience they quoted me about $660 for all six connector tubes. So I bought mine at Vulcan Performance for way less I think it was right around $100 or so (CRS moment...) Cummins was way too proud of there brand name.

Well, that's wrong... Front axle yeah needs 60 PSI but the rear don't. Maybe 40 PSI at the most. I would say either toe or tierods are getting sloppy. Possibly a track bar.

Oh well.

I wore them nearly out at 25k and sold them with 25% tread just to get rid of them. Got tired of the constant loss of MPG over a heavy tire. Cooper's where closer to 90 pounds per tire 265/75 R16.

Bring out a bit more the design was to have mirror pulses. On one wire there is a positive pulse and then on the other wire there is negative pulse as long as both pulses are seen then the computer assume the signal is valid. So if noise is introduced to one side and another pulse is added there is no mirror pulse so the computers disregard that pulse as being valid. This system runs nearly the same rules as CAT5 cabling for networks.