Mopar1973Man

Just the throttle valve cable that all. There is no vacuum per say to the transmission maybe to the transfer case for CAD unit but that's it.

Try selecting the 1st or 2nd gear positions see if it does shift up. If not I'm going to assume either a governor pressure sensor, governor pressure solenoid, band adjustment, or valve body issues.

@tbo1450 Crud.. I'm looking for a functional bearing... @Chris O. I've got my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 I'm going to try the CCD toolbox on. It's also got a 46RE transmission maybe I can see the same things too as @Me78569.

Everyone alway takes my brake information and says that is my exhaust brake that gives me the long brake life. Which is true. The other bit of the story with MoparMom's medical requirements I've been driving back and forth to Boise, ID and fighting the city traffic as well. You'll be surprised how much you really can use an exhaust brake in city application and still save a ton of service brake usage. Ball joints the biggest factor is keep those big tires off the truck. nearly 150k miles on these ball joint and were inspected last weekend by me and 4 days ago by a tire shop. Still tight no issues. 235's have really extended the life of the front axle a lot. Even my track bar is lasting a long time. Starters typically the contact go bad and are easy as pie to replace. Eventually, the brushes start to wear out and that's where you start to see the slower cranking speeds. When this occurs you need the full rebuild kit. Being time was my huge factor I replace with a new starter and figure when time allowed I'd full rebuild my starter. Being that I did do a new NAPA starter I will say there is no issues with a NAPA's new starters and spin this beast over easy as pie even in minus subzero weather. Hub bearings are spendy. Like being I just figured out my ABS issues which is a spun tone ring. I really don't want to replace just one bearing at $300 a wack nor both. Both of my bearings are fine and tight yet. So my advice is leaving the bearing alone unless you need to replace them. Even in my case I'm hunting for a used bearing for test purpose. Heater cores most failures are caused by over extending the coolant. Swivel heater cores are fine there is nothing wrong with them and work excellent being I just tested this winter with temperatures outside the truck at -31*F I was able to keep 160*F coming out of the vents on high fan. The evaporator will impact the heater core performance. It's best to completely pull the HVAC case and inspect everything right down to the blend door bushing.

@c.englund might help if you fill out your signature of the mods on your truck. As for me I've got to write a towing tune fairly quick. I'll be hauling my RV down south to Parma, ID for a second home. On Tuesday I'll be heading home to install my injectors on Wednesday which will be 7x0.008 +75HP injectors. So my economy and performance tunes are most likely change being Jacob @dieselautopower mentioned that they will flow like +90HP with the pintle mods I've got coming. This will be my biggest injector yet.

Going with IBMobile suggestion with the PDC. I've seen it myself where fuses will crack and under load the fuses will open up breaking connection but in a short time cool and make connection again like an automatic circuit breaker. So visual inspection you might just see a normal looking fuses that's not blown but during the failure you might find a fuse with ohm resistance.

Welcome to the family. Clean looking truck.

Now we need @Me78569 to step in. Hey Nick...

1. I got the economy brakes from RockAuto and still going on them I'm going to most likely exceed the OEM in mileage I might just make 200k miles on these brakes. 2. I got AC Delco ball joints from RockAuto and still tight and no issues. The other factor I'm not running oversized tires either. 3. 2002 the rotors just slide off. 4. I did a NEW starter from NAPA and no issues to report. I kept my old starter to rebuild but just not had the time to do it yet. 5. I'm running the aluminum swivel end heater core and no issues to report.

What device are you using?

Time to pressure test the system.

Yes. You can program speedometer settings or different tires.

@Chris O. is the one to talk to... He's in the beta test phase now. As for the BoD here we are in full support of him and hoping to get this to market. What I can use so far is the ABS tests, CTM is for high line modules I've got a standard, Air Bag code reading, then displaying info from the CCD network like battery temp etc.

Pretty simple right now but he's adding more functions.

I hate to admit it but sport headights so far Are just OK. My aircraft landing lights are far better than my headlights. I've still got to wire in the relays for the second bulbs. Even sport headlights scatter the light but it is better than the stock signal bulbs.

Mine did the same thing and I greased it up and the problem is gone. Idaho is 7sing a lot of salt so little salt water Will foul the gauge. I want to Michael at ISSPro about this.

First off I got to say Thank You to @Chris O. for producing a wonderful tool for me to beta test for him. I've managed to test the speed sensors and see the right front is dropping out below 30 to 40 MPH. It drops to zero while the left shows signal. This produces weird ABS action and pulling left fairly hard. Everyone knows I've changed sensors and tested wiring. I've talked to several tire shops and found an answer. The tone ring has most likely broke free on the hub. So I'm hunting for a used unit bearing for testing purposes. Anyone have old bearing laying around?

Be aware that any sump kit or bottom tank feed is illegal for highway use.

Nice truck looks like @JAG1 truck....

Now being down that road I would suggest you think about pop testing your injectors. This is not a Quadzilla issue at all. Injectors are either sticking a bit at idle or getting pissy.

That is still the iQuad app that is freezing up. I would suggest checking over at the download area for possible updated app. Maybe you just unlucky and got a bad download of the app for your device.

Thanks for all the Likes... Moved to the article database here...

I know here shortly this will be added to the article database. I just got done rebuilding the front drive shaft. Rather easy task and the parts are easy to common by even to rebuild the cardan joint ball. Also forgive me I got the camera lens greasy on my phone. Before you break down the double cardan joint mark it so you get it back together the same way. I used a file a scratch a line across all the pieces. It hard to see but there is a line across the left joint cap, the middle joint and the rear joint cap. Now using my Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press I'm simple driving the cap out the other side and disassembling the double cardan joint from the flange end working towards the shaft. When you take it all apart now check your centering ball and bearing. Mine was in sad shape. As you'll see all the needle bearing fell out (ashtray) and no grease was left. So I made a cal to the local NAPA store and they had the centering ball in stock bit pricey at $80 but I needed. It made by SKF and part number is UJ617. Now you need to clean up your old end remove all the grease and dirt. I piled up a good goob of grease in the bottom before installing the ball. Now using a socket to drive the ball into the joint end. Now drive your seal in place with the same socket just do it very light tapping with your hammer or small ball peen. Now the grease should of been shoved into the needle bearings. You notice there is a small hole for the grease to ooze out the bottom and filled the needle bearings. Now start to assemble your u-joint is the shaft. Again using a Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press which is awesome because you'll never have to strike the drive shaft with a hammer or worry about needle bearing to falling over. Now during this process the first cap I will drive too far to the other side but not out of the yoke. This is to push the cross over to the other side a bit more so when you place your other cap it already started on the cross arm and less risk of the needle bearing falling out. before driving it in place your clip on the first cap. Now I did things a bit different and assembled my last joint in the rear flange. What you have to do is place your spring in the shaft with a bit a of grease to hold it. Then tilt the ball just enough to so you can start the cross of the u-joint and the centering ball at the same time. Be patient there is enough room and it will go in. Finished product... So when you are done it should move in all directions freely without binding. Make sure to grease all your joint before installing the shaft. For the front joint I just used the vise and pump grease till the red was seen in all ends. Now install the front driveshaft... What a double cardan joint looks like moving...

Opps my bad I thought he was talking VP44 since we are in the 24V area... Moving to the Ford forum...