Mopar1973Man

As you seen in @Haggar post he was using worm gear clamps and most likely over tighten and deformed the hose. This way his leak showed up. I'm still using the OEM spring clamps. If and when the day come I do switch to worm gear clamps you have to make sure not to over tighten the clamp and not to deform the hose. As for the pressure tester make sure to do the testing on cold engine then the coolant leak will be visible. Like on my 1996 Dodge I could smell the coolant, see I was losing coolant but never make a puddle. On a cold engine pump up the system to 16 PSI and leave it stand. After a few minutes it was dripping on the floor and leaving a wet trail all the way back to the source of the leak. In my case the intake manifold gasket was shot and the coolant was leaking down the front of the block and drying up before it hit the floor. That slow of a leak.

Shaft play you can fix with a rebuilt kit. Those are cheap. As for the crack that a problem. Darn... Now it's not so appealing... I would have to find an exhaust housing then.

Too high... 10 to 30 mV AC is good and normal... 30 to 50 mV AC marginal... 100 mV AC Fail.

I tend to hold true with good ol' OEM steering boxes. I'm coming up on 300k miles and still no leaks from the steering box and still tight. When it does start to weep oil I'll just rebuild it and readjust the box and it will be brand new again without the big price tag of a Redhead or any aftermarket gear box. What ever you do not get a quick ratio if you have oversized tires.

That's not like you to do something like that?

Depends on the design of the nozzle and clean the holes are. Then where they pop tested to tight tolerance? How about flow matching the six nozzles to close to the same flow rate too? Like from what I remember the old Edge Jammer nozzles were pretty dirty for injectors. Low quality? Poor build?

That's something we don't do here... For what ever reason we are all adults here and family like here so we truly do care and attempt to resolve or band together and help people get solutions not jibberish or the common answer "Use the search function it been answered already!" Not all issues are the same nor is the solution to every problem. Sites like CF are corporate owned and the only thing that matters is traffic and advertising dollars. Don't get me wrong we to have bills here too but we do attempt to be helpful for all the members. CF the corporate owners don't really supervise actions on the site. If they did you'd see them being more visible on the site which you don't.

Jon will let you watch he'll even show you a bunch of stuff... Just ask!

Personally that ridiculous... That's just way overkill. All that for mere 25 MPH in the snow. You can buy a snowmobile for much less and have more fun.

Watch out for Chinese knock offs that might be super cheap on Ebay or Amazon.

@martinique78 Thank you... The only advise on the lock up is to watch the tach for a second drop for 4th gear.

Ahhh... That right it not going to show. Quadzilla bases that off of road speed and engine RPM's. So displayed lockup and gear information will be incorrect.

Is it still present if you drop to Level 0 on the Quadzilla? (Quadzilla turned OFF). If so I would talk to @Me78569 he's the Quadzilla guru here. If not I would consider that AC noise test for the alternator. Could be excessive AC noise messing with sensors.

@jlbayes would you consider welding a blown seam or still stick with a used replacement?

Reduce lag of turbo and less launching smoke.

Little green dot. But be aware this is not actual lock up it calculated. Like on my truck with a manual 5 speed it does the same thing.

Foot on brake = Ground Foot off brake = open A majority of the system is setup this way.

Any part store should work. Some will say go to Cummins. The problem is no matter what its about $100 to $120 sensor. They are not cheap. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB227091

I'm going to assume that like typically applied brakes should be grounded.

What size injectors are you running?

I would have to say your right the sensor is shot and failed within specs. It other words the MAP sensor reporting a valid number of boost but not out of range so it would never trip a code. Rare but it does happen. Your voltage appears correct for the sensor circuit.

I was curious about the timing setup your running. I want to compare your timing setup and see if it was close to what I was running and now gives me kind of a feel for the power curve. I know your injectors are different but should be close. This is my cruise as of right now. Timing vs rpm 1500: 17.5 2000: 20.5 2500: 22 3000: 24 Timing Max: 25 The only tweak is I'm running 5.5* of timing for cruise and cruise boost level to 12 PSI. This nets me around 20.5* at 2K RPM's. When I drop out of cruise it retards about 1 degree (fuel load timing)

Easier with the Quadzilla Adrenaline. You can actually set you fuel map below stock to set your own defueling curve that you want. Like I'm starting out at 85% of CANBus fuel and working my way up from there to 137%. I'm currently not running any wire tap at all.

Intercooler I think comes into play more so in track and racing. When you playing with big fuel and lots of EGT heat. The standard daily drive will not see any benefit to upgraded intercooler.