Mopar1973Man

Might read over these articles to see if you might of missed something...

All pulleys are straight. The belt is ride straight on all pulleys. Bearings are all smooth, fan, water pump, alternator, tensioner pulley, and A/C pulley. New compressor.

When you installed the injectors did you tight the hold down caps first of the crossover tubes first? You are suppose to snug the crossovers first to ensure a good seal of the crossover tubes before tightening and locking the injector in place. ECM idle software is controlled by coolant temperature so when you say hot or cold. What is the hot temperature? The colder the coolant temperature the higher the idle will be.

Exactly! Are you OK?

All codes can be cleared or erased. This just mean that you cant erase the code because the code is real. So I would suggest going and reading up on the P0237 code in the ODB listing on the site.

Another thing learned for Mopar1973Man high idle and Quadzilla owners. Make sure you select OFF or MPG mode before rolling. If your using warm-up mode on Quadzilla it will lock to stock timing till the coolant temperature rises above the set point on the Quadzilla. It would be good reason to hook up the power leads and still the extra hole for the LED to shine through.

Another rare thing is the brake hoses coming part internally and creating a one way valve which will make the brakes hang up. Excessive debris in the system can hang up calipers causing the pistons to stick. Hydrobooster is possible from old fluid and debris causing it to hang in apply mode slightly. All are caused from lack of fluid changes on powering fluid and brake fluid.

Welcome to the family!!! You might want to go to your profile and add your signature and fill in your profile. It will help others help you.

Sorry it was back burner for headlights. I'm focused on the MPG more so. I've been camped out in Parma, ID for the last week. Saving fuel this way. I've got to say Thank You to @MUDDY for letting camp his place. Injectors will be at the house today so this weekend I'll go home and deal with that. I could get my wire supplies today so I could finish them up as a crude install.

You can upload the pics to the site.

Don't feel back I know guys that I've talked to on the phone that admit to changing oil every 2,000 miles because they think black oil or sooty oil is bad on the engine.

Ok.. I want to know what happens? Also @jlbayes what is the max boost I should limit to on the HX35/40?

Sorry VP44 No longer has a diaphragm.

Sorry I just don't see the price vs. Name working out.

HX35/40 vs VGT? Seriously?

3 Things according to Jacob @dieselautopower... 1. SAC's typically have less issues than VCO's. 2. SAC's typically can flow more fuel. 3. Pintle modifications on these injectors have been measured to flow more like a +90HP injector. Now that being said @Me78569 is running 7x.010 injectors (+100 HP) and still reaching 24-25 MPG's completely smokeless tune on the Quadzilla. So I should be able to match him for the most part safely with the HX35/40 turbo (60/60/12) and the 7x0.0085 (+75HP SAC's). Being Me78569 can still flow more air with his VGT over my HX35/40 so being just a bit smaller on the injectors and turbo should be a close match to him.

Heck any information about turbos would be a bonus for the site.

So why don't we discuss this so someone might create and article about turbos?

Sorry I've got a yellow vest not a orange vest. I'm more south than that too.

Or... Go to my article...

Another way... Always turn the starwheel away from the axle to tighten.

I'm not saying mat the throttle to the floor to test it. Like even in my 96 Dodge 1500 it extremely difficult to do being the tires let go before you reach the stall speed. Like the older 727 transmissions you could do this fairly easy back in the day.

Might be true for the 2002 Dodge. As for my 1996 Dodge 1500 that is not true. I bought is used back in 2001 with 112k miles on it. Still in all low failure rate with the 1996 Dodge only big thing was 46RE rebuild I did a year ago.

You need to verify the oil pressure with mechanical gauge. Dash gauge is nothing more than a dummy light. You might have bigger issues killing turbos being the oil pressure might not be high enough in pressure. @AH64ID What's the standard for CR engine oil pressure? Is it still the same minimums... MINIMUM PRESSURES (At least what I know for 2nd Gen) 10 PSI at idle 30 PSI at 2,000 RPM's

So... What I would do is crack like #1 only, close the other 5 lines tight. Then do the ether trick again and leave the one line open. If it starts then you can close that line when it does start. It will be messy but it should get it started.