Mopar1973Man

Gotta toss out a big "Thank You!" to @dieselautopower... Headlights sold by DAP. http://dieselautopower.com/standard-to-sport-edition-headlight-conversion-9402spchl/ Very nice looking headlights. Clear lens and looks very nice on the truck and doesn't look like a euro-truck or something stolen from a UFO. I've still got to adjust the aim of the lights tonight. I guess there is something else to add to my Garage list. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/267-sport-headlight-conversion/

Just for fun today since I'm at home I had to make a quick trip to McCall, ID. So I went for the full hypermiling again like I use to and turned a 20.3 MPG for the day. Mostly highway travel. I'll be heading out for my long haul tomorrow and finish this tank of fuel out.

When you data log you need all the information you can get.

Ok... Lets see some pictures... If you make that mistake its easy to correct. Shut your key OFF wait 10 seconds. Then make sure you select the proper mode (OFF, 6 CYL or 3 CYL). Now turn your key on and wait for the light and start as usual. The 10 second wait will shut down the ECM and allow a fresh reboot at the next key on.

My fill up today netted hand math of 18.73 MPGs. As for the OBDLink im less than 1% error between hand math and the tablet. Im going to verify on the next tank. As for the timing change didn't do much to the MPG numbers. In going to try shaving another 0.5 degrees off the cruise timing.

Call Eric at Vulcan Performance he'll have the fitting your looking for. Won't be the same but I'm sure he'll have something.

I'm working on it.

Like myself my majority is 65 MPH highways so I'm going to build on the 65 MPH and use the Truck lane for interstate and old to 70 MPH which is Truck speed limit. This will make it easier to build my economy tune.

I don't know what to say I normal just do it by hand and no torque wrench. Never had an issue.

I think it has to do with injector size that making the difference I've got smaller nozzles than you So you require more timing to light off the bigger droplets. You might knock 0.5 or 1 degree off the cruise timing and see what happens.

Appears like the 17 degree timing is working way better for MPGs compared to the 20.5 degrees I was running previously. I'm at 323 miles at half tank. I'll calc and calibrate at the next fill on the way home. More to come...

Way better this trip. No injector miss. Running about 17 degrees of timing, very quiet, very little rattle.

I'm going to bet you broke above 80*F on the IAT when that happens.

There was a TSB for early model truck for change out of cross over tubes because it is easy to crush or distort the crossover tubes. Another thought is that it's possible the pooled fuel in the tube area is just expanding out. After doing any injector work I typically ignore the fuel for a few days then power wash and then check. 99% the leak is gone. DO NOT use any sealants on the nuts or lines it will cause serious issues. Plugging of the cross over tubes, injectors, etc. The sealing point of the system is the o-rings (return rail) and the tapered tip and flute of the crossover tube. So if the leak is truly not going away that means new lines and cross over tubes.

You can pry the injectors out with a small screwdriver and being careful. Crossover tubes basically the same way they can be pried out with a small screwdriver. Basically, you just need the injectors.

Cleaning either the MAP sensor or IAT sensor never fixes anything. I agree with @Me78569 check for boost leaks.

That's what I call roughing it. When you sleep under the stars and no electronics at all. Age also has done the same thing to me. I use to do a lot of sleeping on the ground in a tent. I've even slept in the back of the truck for many years. If you look back in the forum you fine post of my old canopy set up with slide out drawer and bed above.

Do tell... Let's here about the chat share your ideas...

Because some of us don't go to RV parks with full hook up. That's just relocation of your home. Camping is when you don't have any hook ups.

Push a set of +50 injectors in.. Fixed... I know that's not going to happen...

Being I'm on the roads so much I need a way to use the phone, answer phone calls, etc. Being my phone only works when I'm not home I don't have to worry about the pocket thing being I'm in the saddle for at least 8 hours doing my round trip to Boise and home. More or less building my mini office right in the Cummins. I've got several people that call for support and I can help them with issues while I'm traveling.

I'll grab a screenshot today and post idle RPM.

Last time i fired up the panels on the RV I sat and watched TV in Boise valley for most of the afternoon without ever dropping below 12.6 to 12.8 volts. Also charging the cell phone.

Any load will kill off the miss. Heavy brake pedal, turn the steering wheel, etc. Soon as the load is gone the miss returns. So it's not exactly a Quadzilla signal issue. It's results after a good long run. Mine usually occurred after exiting the interstate. Now if I pulled into a fuel station to take a leak or grab a soda. Just shut the engine down for less than 5 minutes and start again the miss is gone. The miss is heat related. Then you can drive city streets and not get it at all.