Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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I'm still running a stock OE style trackbar with no issues. The catch here is I'm not running oversized tires. So... You are stuck having to modify and take on either a Luke's links or a 3rd Gen track bar conversion. I would suggest the 3rd Gen track bar myself. Those 35" tire will not allow you to keep a stock track bar. You'll have to consider a steering box brace. Those 35's put a lot of force on the steering box and frame. All I can say is expect to spend quite a bit of time fixing the front end on these trucks as long as you keep over sized tires. -
Did you try going over this...
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Ask JAG1 about his box he had to modify his for this reason. I know the clips he bents to clamp tighter and something on the box to aid in clamping.
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Optilube is a good product. For most people its a mail only product. It does increase HFRR quite well. The only reason I still use 2 cycle oil is I got so much 2 cycle equipment. (Chainsaws, weed eaters, etc.)
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I've swapped units with another known good truck and still got the same issues. So it's going to be one of thee unit bearing hubs.
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Be aware that method will not stop oil spilling. A sudden panic stop will still run oil out the tube. 4WD on steep slope will still spill oil.
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Won't happen ATF is too high in ash content not to mention the other compound like anti-scorching and friction modifiers. At least 2 cycle oil is just oil without all the add junk you engine can't burn.
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Depends on your fuel source. Some folks like using dirty ol' farm fuel (red dye) and wonder why filters don't last long. Maybe they are really cheap and buy the cheap corner store fuel and wonder why the filter is black in 15k miles. The reason I can get away with it is because of knowing my fuel source and what the fuel station has for filters. So I can extend my filter change out quite a long time. I still watch the fuel pressure and see if there is a serious drop in pressure. So far it not tripped my low pressure light even once yet. ISSPro EV2 is programmed for 13 PSI so when it drops to below 13 PSI it will trip.
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Still in all for a pump to be still labeled LSD is not valid either.
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Just pointing out it's not a perfect idea...
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You might want to test with a analog volt meter to be sure it's not just a busy CCD data bus making things jumpy. If you do decide to change it go for a Timbo's APPS much better APPS.
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Just like the Dakota I just do the manifold gasket the amount of debris in the manifold was unreal. Previous owner had a K&N.
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Excessive alternator noise could cause issues driving the ECM nuts. Bad ground on the passenger battery be aware of the cable clipped to the battery tray. That is the master ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44. Typically APPS sensor that is going bad typically throws a P0121, P0122 or P0123. Very rare does it just get jumpy because its bad. If you want to test that again use a analog volt meter and probe the signal wire. It should rise smoothly without jumping.
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Oh! Someone liked the idea of chrome eh?
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Just like there was no law stating if they had to label ULSD or LSD at the pump either. There is still pump to the day claiming LSD. I really doubt it being LSD is no longer produced for highway use. Just like there is no law stating to label for cetane value.
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I'm going to rebuild mine and I'll measure everything out and document it all over again. I just built one for a customer and it turned out perfect. The vent doesn't touch the upper radiator hose. Lined up nice and everything. I've got a few trick like how to get angles set right and glued right. You could build it out of copper and then have it chromed if you really don't like the plastic look.
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That's because of the larger droplets produced by the larger injectors. Smaller injectors can produce fine enough mist to fire up with little to no heat at all. Doesn't bother me one bit...
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Should see the pump laying my shelf. It was pull that exact fashion and needless to say is worthless for a core. Be limited to 60-65 HP period. There is no programmer or module that can provide more than 60-65 HP without a wire tap.
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Also double check for deforming of the stock air box. This is the reason I gave up. I was happy with the stock air box but when you can spray WD40 on the top lid and find dust trails from the sealing lip you need to grease the filter seal from there on out or convert to BHAF.
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Vacuum Pump Rebuild I'm going to cut to the chase. I'm not going to post the instructions included with the Cummins seal kit because it has a lot of stuff you can skip and save time. You'll need to pull the intake horn and APPS sensor to gain ample room to work. Now I didn't mess with the power steering pump at all. I unbolted it and pull it back out of the way. I would suggest getting a pan or something under before pulling the power steering pump it will spill some engine oil. As for the 4 nuts on the power steering pump they are 15mm nuts. The 2 15mm nuts on the drivers side of the pump can be removed from the top, where as the 2 nuts on the passenger side of the pump need to be removed from the bottom. You can find the vacuum pump seal kit in our store There is one stud with double nuts which hold the battery cable away from the steering shaft. Now unhook you vacuum line and the oil supply in the bottom which is 9/16 fitting. Now the 2 bolts holding the vacuum pump to the gear case are 15mm as well. You have the upper bolt with a 10mm nut hold the wiring harness as well. Now the vacuum pump slips right out of the gear case. The upper colt can be removed from the top of the engine bay, the bottom bolt needs to be removed from under the truck. Now you'll have two 13mm bolts holding the vacuum pump together. Now take the power steering pump end. You'll need to find a deep well socket that fits within the hole of the shaft so you can knock the power steering pump seal and collar out. Using a rubber or dead blow hammer knock the collar out with the seal. This is what should come out. Now you'll need to find another deep well socket and knock the seal out of the collar. Now be careful there is a raised shoulder inside so be sure you're going to strike the seal and not the collar. Now all you have left is 2 o-rings to remove. One is on the collar and the other is on the main body of the vacuum pump. At this point, you need to clean all your parts with degreaser or brake clean before assembly. While you're at it grab your Cummins Vacuum Pump Rebuild Kit. Now basically, you just reverse for assembly. Using the same sockets for driving seals into place. Make sure to replace both o-rings on the body and the collar. During all assembly make sure to lube all seals and o-rings will oil first. The order of the parts installed into the pump is, Part number 3 goes in with the rubber oring closer to the front of hte engine. you will tap in the collar until the bezel is flush with the vacuum pump housing. The red arrow shows the direction to insert the collar into the vacuum pump housing. Now I installed the vacuum pump back to the gear case. Now using a 22mm socket I rolled the engine over using the alternator pulley and positioned the slot of the pump vertically so I could line up the power steering pump. Now carefully slide the power steering shaft into the pump. Now if it's lined up properly it should seat down to the base of the power steering pump. If its doesn't DO NOT force using the nuts you will do damage. It should push all the way into the housing and seat with just hand pressure. If you get the pump lined up run your nuts back on the studs. Don't forget to hang the battery cable back on the bottom stud and using the 5th nut. Now you can hook up your oil feed line because you need the room to work to get the nuts back on the power steering pump. Now it just a matter of reassembling all the other stuff like intake horn, APPS sensor, etc. Torque Specs Vacuum Pump Body bolts (2) ...................................... 22 FT/LBS (30 Nm) Power Steering Pump nuts (4) ..................................... 18 FT/LBS (24 Nm) Gear Case Bolts (2) .................................................... 57 FT/LBS (77 Nm)
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I'm going to redo my write up on the crankcase vent set up I've got.
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Tell him that you'd be will to test your BHAF besides his K&N filter in a independent lab test of the two filters. Tell him loser pays for the test. I'm pretty sure he'll be singing another tune.
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Also relocate the sensor away from the VP44. It's not the engine vibration that kills it but the close proximity of the VP44 is what kills sensors. I'm running both a needle valve and a ISSPro sintered snubber. The needle valve is a safety shutoff in case the tube is damaged its not used for snubbing. Then relocated a total of 5 tubing feet from my tap point. I'm in my second year of zero issues.
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Same here. There is no need for grid heater right down to +32*F I've started as low as +23*F but then you see the rough idle, white smoke, till it smooths out. Matter of fact I'll be unhooking my grid heater really soon. Typically in April but I might do it sooner being the weather is so mild. I'm expecting another day of low 40's to mid 50's here again. Even this morning it made it down to as low as 40*F and not even cold enough for grid heaters. So MoparGuy is right I would be looking towards air leaks now.
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CR injection is a different story being its go that pilot injection event. The only residual film should be oil. There is no ash in quality US made 2 cycle oils today. I seriously doubt there is anything left after the burn process occurs the remaining should be burned off as part of the fuel. Now back in the days of WEO usage that was very very true. The high amount of carbon and ash in the used oil would absolutely build up debris. Ash deposits from ATF or WEO. Again... Ash deposits.
