Mopar1973Man

I think about 70k I think I got to look in my maintenance logs. I'll take a look... I've just done my flush so it will be another 2 years. The other problem if I need to top of mixing with other product will most likely wipe out its protection. That's a another job I got to do in the summer time more so. I get mud piled up about 3/8 of the way up the bottom of the radiator.

I need to get the stuff right now its more or less crunch time to get everything done before Wednesday. By Wednesday we are going into the freezer for temperature so it was easier to just flush it out and change it that to drive all over attempting to find the pH additive up here or order it. I still want to do a coolant filter set up but I need to get the free time.

Articles was updated... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/133-cooling-system-flushing

I've got the plug order up at NAPA. I just got to get them sometime and do the work. I've got to cut the plug off the end and re-wire a new trailer cord on. Then rewire all that mess in the tube.

The BigTex in the photo above.

On the software it will do the look up over the internet for you as well. So it gives a P number and brief description and then you can do a look on the internet of more information. I'll see if I can produce a few screen shots for you.

I've travelled a total of 255k miles now and been keeping up on my coolant flushing. This batch was over extended and shows it in the bucket the color was starting to shift just wee bit. As for the radiator and block still going strong and very clean! Still using universal yellow coolant and doing just fine. Don't need any fancy orange HOAT. Lookie... No scale build up!!! 255k miles and like a factory fresh radiator. Block is even clean yet and just a surface rust like back from my previous picture shoot.

Man this sucks I just finally got back to the fuse blowing problem on the trailer and found out what happened. Standing at the rear of the trailer the 3rd right center marker light decided to spit the plug and allow it to bounce around and melt the wiring out. Oh Great... My yard mule for trailer work.

It might... If the AC noise is there it will be disabled and will not have the lock up issues.

Then now time to unhook the alternator and retest if the problem goes away the alternator has failed. The truth is the best diagnostic tool for this is a O-scope... Most people are not going to want to buy one. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/automotive-oscilloscope

Difficult to do in a diesel for a wet test because of the small hole and trying to get oil on the rings and not in the piston bowl. In any case the engine will have to be open up at least the head and inspected.

Pull the alternator wire loose. (Both the charge lead and the field lead). Go for test drive. If it gone then the AC noise is too high. Some meter are not showing correct number vs. frequency.

I got a replacement straw for a customers truck I got to install. The previous shop cut it so short it running out of fuel at 1/4 tank now. Tell you the truth it much much easiest to drop a tank than lift a bed. I can drop a fuel tank quicker than fighting to jack and support a very heavy bed that might slip off and do some serious injury or damage the bed attempting to hinge off of a couple of bolts which doesn't work for long beds at all. With the tank dropped you can see to work much easier...

I typically leave mine in MPG mode all summer but come winter time I switch to OFF to get the grid heater to function. Then after started flip to MPG mode.

There is no really change in running. What you will notice in cold start ups the then when you start in Normal (OFF) and then be going done the road anf flip to MPG mode you notice the timing rattle nearly disappears completely. Engine becomes very quiet. This is the effect of retarding the timing. Yes I said retarding and not advancing.

Time for new hydro's. Replace both master ans slave units. I'm going to bet you have a little fluid leaking back into the cab at the push rod.

That's why my original post I remember that post too. I'm almost sure the central timer has the security feature. The only thing I can think off is having the whole thing reflashed.

I know everyone on CF.com is raving on how nice 2WD LO is. Myself I really don't care for a bunch of modified stuff in the truck. I just replaced it with a another vacuum motor. I so rarely even use the 4WD feature even in the winter time I'm hard pressed to pulling the lever in either truck. This is even this is 2WD HI time.

Me personally I would of dish out for the filter minder. The filter minder is way cheaper then you'll know if you have to dish out for the filter which is much more expensive. What funny my last BHAF cost me about $50 buck it will go a full 100k miles or 5 years at least. So I would spend the $20 or $30 bucks to measure restriction that wasting good money replacing possibly a good filter. Then again we'll never know if the filter is actually filtering down to rated micron start after X amount of washing either.

Just to show the difference of the different series... So over the years we've come a long ways and improved the design each step of the way. First generation... Second Generation Now the upgraded 2nd Generation kit...

Actually the 24V 2nd Gens had a security key fob and that isn't the PCM exactly. The central timer under the dash is the controller for the security system but typically it dead if set/armed and never fires. I would have to say to check fuel pressure and basics. Is the lift pump even working?

I'm in the process of getting things ready for another upgrade again. Currently we are at 4.0.13 and 4.1.1 is out right now. There is a whole list of changes made to the software since. https://community.invisionpower.com/blogs/entry/9737-ips-community-suite-41-preview-available/ It's a constantly changing market. I'm always chasing the next new technology for the site. I look around the internet and watching sites fall apart, not meeting the needs of technology or the members. Big places like Facebook are like myself constantly chasing the technology and attempting to meet the needs of folks.

Just because it has block heat doesn't mean it enabled for high idle. So if the high idle function doesn't start in approximately 2-3 minutes then the software is not enabled. So you'll need to barrow a Smarty or have the dealer enable the software for you.

One reason I kept my filter minder. I know the filter minder is set up for inches of water column. So the vacuum level is extremely light to pull it down. This way I know exactly when my filter is tired out. So you can get filter minders as generic. https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=filter+minder&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=filter+minder&channel=fs&tbm=shop

high cetane is typically need for cold morning starting. When normal compression heat isn't enough to ignite the fuel. Typically sub zero weather. The only other time high cetane is use is for racing when you twisting like 4k and better. Normal daily driver not required.