Mopar1973Man

That's why I such a problem with prime loss issues. Lot of people claim the cross over tubes cause loss of prime. I struggle to understand how. Being the crossover tube is the return side of the system and the return side can and will drain back to the tank. The overflow valve is not a air tight valve being it has that air purge hole. Being the prime problem has to be on supply side to be effective. In other words there is air in the high pressure lines, injectors, or in the injection pump. Maybe even in the low pressure side feeding the high pressure side. Return is after the fact...

Double check again. Something isn't plugged in yet. DANGER! You might want to disconnect the NEG cable again for at least 5 minutes before messing with any air bag wiring or plugs. A air bag that goes off can be very dangerous.

I second that... blower motor bearing will tighten up and draw more power which in turn cooks the blower resistor in the first place.

Check all fuses with ohm meter I've seen fuses crack and appear to be fine but the element is crack and no longer flowing power. Test light can be used on normal blade fuses but ohm meter has to be used on the larger square fuses. Also it always best to un-hook the negative cable that way there is never a chance of arcing a cable. Hooking up a batteries should always be positive first and then negative last. This prevents this issues from occurring.

Any of the these great site vendors are good places to start.... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/140-vendors-dealers/ My favs are Vulcan Performance, DAP, and Parleys...

Easy way to deal with it. Take a photo of the MTD label on the lawn mower with the serial number, model, MY, etc. Then go to any lawn and garden shop that services equipment. They will be able to look up the belt and get you the right one. Like for blade belts I can go to the local NAPA and get them but they can't look up the info so its a guessing game. My last belt broke Sunday as well and I drove 70 miles round trip to get a belt so I could mow the lawn to find out the belt is a bit too small so the blade drag slightly when disengaged. But the other alternative is to take my photo go to the shop in Ontario, OR which is 250 miles round trip and they will get me the right one. Never the less this lawn mower is 9 years old and well beat. I've got multiple issues from lower crank seal leaking oil on the clutch belt to blade housing is bent/tweaked, to right hand blade spindle is bent.

That means what...??? Do you realize that all summer here we've been reaching 100*F minimum and topped out at 117*F this summer. I don't have power steering cooler either. Heck my last day of work in Riggins, ID it was 108*F when I left town at 5pm. I still hold to my every 30k fluid flushing... No leaks or issues as of yet.

One of the few reason I never did the overhead clearance light mod to my truck I knew this is a problem as light age and seal start leaking. The you stuck looking for solutions... Most of our older fire trucks are now having this same problem with roof leaks. In our case its a tube of silicone to fix the issues. But in the case here most are going to want fresh seals or updated lights.

That would also apply to performance running too. You would look for the optimal drive pressure. As heat energy is converted the exhaust from the turbo should be cooler.

Personally I would set the software to run a tight vane to get spooled up so you can get to speed. Then open the vanes up to drop boost at cruising speed.

Sound great and all but you can't buy that valve. You have to get a reman'ed VP44.

Here is the guts of the VP44... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view The only thing I can think of is the control valve in this pic #135. But never been reported as a problem.

Can you imagine hauling that engine up there? How about all the tools to just assemble that mill? Crazy... Wow!

Still worth keeping an eye on. The previous shop I worked for the owner was quick to use these check valves for prime issues on diesel instead of correcting the actual problem. I understand there is a lot of different parts and seals in all the different diesel manufactured but its always best to fix it than band-aid it. Eventually the band-aid will not cover the wound or in this cause the failure.

Now there is a antique. Wow! I love old history like that and just be able to sit in front of it and imagine what it was like back in those days.

Thing is the fluid might be changed out but did you flush the debris out of the system? Is it possible you got debris in the hydrobooster because of the pump failure?

Cummins Kit is a double lipped.

Got to ask though with all these custom steering boxes (redhead and similar) why is it I'm getting ready to cross a quarter of million miles and no issues with a stock box? Kind of like asking why am I going to cross a quarter of a million miles with NV4500 and no 5th gear nut problems.

Most can get the screw out with a socket torx and then lightly tug on the sensor wiring. It will come out far enough to allow you to unplug the sensor. Hook up the new sensor and place the screw in the hole with tool in the screw and guide the assembly back in the hole carefully. That's at least how I been told to do it... I've never had to change mine yet.

Makes me ask th question what is still leaking? Being that our trucks don't have check valve you added a check valve to over come a loss of prime.

Yeah you've got a lot money spent on your truck.

No. Just because of the bleed hole the air can bleed back through the bleed hole in the overflow valve. As for the return line its NOT submerged in fuel it terminated near the top of the tank where the suction line is terminated at the bottom of the tank. Let's say with the overflow removed the lift pump can barely pump fuel through the VP44 with 14-20 PSI its just a trickle. If the engine is cranking the flow is greatly improved.

I tend to agree with AH64ID... The positive cross over cable between the two batteries must be damaged. Possibly a bad ground cable too. I would do a voltage drop test and see which one is bad.

Ahhh... 4 or 5 screw in the top of the dash. Knee bolster has to be dropped to get the steering wheel dropped another 2 more nuts. Then pull up the cup holder and remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts under the cupholder near the airbag module. Then just loosen 2 bolts at the kick panel. Lift passenger side up and swing to the seat. Use a cam buckle strap to hang from the grab bar on the passenger side. If your stuck call me I'll be home tomorrow.

If you can unload this by "hand" I'll let you take as much as you can unload. The Honda Rancher got a good beating today when one log turned side way and rolled down the ramp and into to the nose of the ATV. On top of that it roll the winch line up pulling the ATV down to the ground tweaking my wench bracket. Most of this stuff was so heavy that even pulling with the winch line was insane the ATV would stand on its nose and pull for all its got.