Mopar1973Man

Even mine is a so-so 4 seasons design. I've got covered tanks and some of my heat is ported into the cover tank areas. The only problem is the water lines leave the inside of the RV to the outside to get under the slide and then pop back up in the bathroom. This is its weak spot being there is no heat for this one area of plumbing. So when even looking at a 4 season RV make sure all water plumbing remains inside the RV and doesn't go through the floor. Other than that my furnace does a excellent job of heating at minus weather and I will tend to agree with AH64ID it does suck up a bunch of propane but you will stay warm.

Being Florida is already warm it might not net much of a gain at all. Were up north here might actually help the numbers because of the extreme cold.

Like I got to friend just down the road from me that wants to do the same thing. He's in the market for 5th wheel approximately about 30 foot or so. Something he can haul with his Chevy 2500 pickup. He done with all the renting homes and them being shacks like his current place. He's got property just north of here and would love to jusy drop a RV on his open ground to live in. Now with that said I told him to consider being mobile. Now he's loving the idea of being up north for the summer with family for the summer and then go south to other family in the winter. He's also looking into the winter package RV's with heated tanks and plumbing. Because this will be his long term home.

Personally I would just change the hinge out. I've tried doing that on a older car and fought for quite a while. End up crushing fingers and parts attempting to fix that problem.

I think you jumping the gun a bit too fast. 1.2 MPG could be just the winter. Not to mention possible driving habit changes. Like myself with the lower price of fuel I'm driving a bit faster now and seeing a 2 MPG drop just from that.

Like I typically tell people... Base the trailer on your living requirements. Make sure you fit the RV. Make sure the RV will fit the truck. Kind of sad to buy a huge RV you can't tow. I would suggest buy a used unit. Typically used RV have much less problems than new units.

Congrads to you and your family. Better teach the little one about Cummins Diesel later in life because yours will most likely still running by the time the little is old enough to drive!

Dorkweed is the one that started the whole 2 cycle oil concept back in the day. I'm the one that ran with it... OE VP44 died at 50k miles (P0216) and was replaced. I'm at 240k miles now. OE injectors are still very function and just stored away. My RV275 Injectors where used about 400k miles and managed to get another year from them. But then replaced them with +50 HP injectors and here I am today...

I don't have that function.

MoparMom's asking how old? How about your picture?

Right now the big problem is getting the site stable... First. Then I can move back to the high idle mod and get the stuff going with Ed. But I'm way behind with the server being too small and still need to install a better store software which is half done now. But I'll get back to High Idle stuff a bit later...

I typically don't suggest mixing products. Because some products negate the abilities of other products. Like PS is cetane boost and 2 cycle is a cetane reducer. Like PS is typically more of a injector cleaner / cetane booster and 2 cycle oil is more of lubricant. So mixing products might yield results less than favorable at times. If you use one product then you guaranteed success. Like if you stick to PS for anti-gel then the product will work properly without fail. But mixing with 2 cycle might create other issues. Becuase of how your changing the chemistry of the fuel.

Be careful with flexible neck or bent neck wands. You still have to maintain distance from particular things like cooler and radiators. Bossman down at the shop has a bent neck wand and thought he could use it to help clean out a A/C condenser but it was still way to close and the power washer was folding the fins over flat. Like myself for under truck work I wait for warmer days and use the slope of the yard. So crawl under from the high side and start spraying the low side as much as possible and work my way out. Then flip the truck around and start over again. This allows to hit both sides of the frame and body without laying in a puddle of water. Don't get me wrong your still going to get wet but your not going to lay in a puddle.

Mine was very obvious of the break. You could flex the jacket and clearly see the black wire was broken and the white wire was intact. I would suggest you inspect the plugs it might be corroded contacts.

Same here... Most all axle hardware I use anti-seize. But around brake parts I'm very careful to keep it thin and keep it off of brake parts.

This is what we use at work for cleaning engine bays. Works really good. http://www.reordersuperclean.com/ Another favorite but not as strong as Super Clean. http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Citrus-Heavy-Duty-Degreaser-ZUCIT128/100676344 Then blow it all off with a 3,000 PSI power washer. Stays pretty clean that way.

Once again I got that darn blasted ABS and BRAKE light again. I knew the driver side front sensor was repaired. What had happened was the outer jacket of the ABS split open after being flexed enough times that it broke. So the driver side was soldered and shrink wrapped and tapped up well. So I pull the driver side thinking it was damaged and unwrapped the repair and everything was fine. So I broke out a DVM and set it for ohm setting. Sure enough the driver side was right around 1,000 ohms. Hmmm... So quickly yanked the plug on the passenger side and ohm that lead. I got infinite ohms (open circuit). Now start from the sensor and right about the knuckle the jacket did the same thing. Split open and the black wire was broken. Very carefully I took a razor blade and took just a little bit of jacket off so I could solder and shrink tube this side. So after the repair I checked the ohms again and right around 1,000 ohms. I placed a dab of dielectric grease in both ABS plugs and plugged them back in. Roll the truck out of the shop and about half way across the yard the ABS and BRAKE light went out. I think the next time its going to be time for new sensors...

Possibly a kinked return hose? Possibly a check ball is sticking?

I would say pump housing marks. Too wide to be spring marks.

Nice tip... Thanks.

Nicely done on the spring mod. I'll have to do that to my new spring and see if it works.

180*F isn't stock. It should of been a 190*F thermostat.

I would say your thermostat is shot.

Same here...

Same here I'm a tick over 6 foot as well and gotta remember to duck leaving the RV or get scalped.