Mopar1973Man

In regards to running 15w-40 in everything. I've don that too at one point but found out the efficiencies of the other engines that require a different weight tend to degrade in MPG's. I was doing the same and using 15w-40 in the 966 Dodge. But now like this winter put the recommended 5w-30 in and the MPG rose gain from the summer grade of 10w-30 and rose even more that originally using 15w-40.

Can you verify with a second mechanic gauge?

I used cheap clear vinyl tubing on the 1996 Dodge for replacing the vacuum tubing. It works but if routed near hot parts it does suck flat. So the fuel line would bee a bit better.

So there is a slight flat spot not a failure. Might be something you consider replacing soon but its not you cause of misfire. Might be easier to grab a live data tool and just watch the data while driving. Then you see everything the ECM sees.

Sorry... That's sucks to end up with a fat bill. But at least its fixed.

Tell him "thanks"... But as for odd behaviour I would have to say try taking it to a Dodge Dealer and having the ECM reflashed. Maybe during the flash process the DRBIII tool might sense something or there is a checksum that might not be right. I work off a 2 smoking gun rule. I need two separate test that show a failure before I would commit to replacement. Right now we really don't have much. The only thing I could suggest is swapping ECM's with a friend and see if the problem goes away.

MnTom idea what I was thinking...

Double check all your vacuum lines I've seen cases where they have melted closed or dry rotted and crack open but the crack is so tiny you can't see it. ISX posted a while about how the little rubber boots would leak too.

They are a certified Bosch rebuilder too with a Bosch 815 test stand... Sorry to say most everything I know of is closed on Sundays...

Take a vacuum hand pump and put a good vacuum on one port at a time and watch and see if the vacuum falls if so the diaphragm is leaking.

Well good at least the ECM appears to be working correctly then that means one of the errors most likely is the cause of the limp mode.

Yea...

Ouch. The limited pedal worries me. That typically points to ECM issues. Could you do a AC voltage test on your alternator? Basically just use a good quality digital volt meter and measure the voltage at the BATT terminal on the alternator. If the voltage is over 0.1 AC volts then the alternator failed. How about the Wait To Start light? Does it come on instantly or does it lag a few seconds? Hot start is typically excessive fuel pressure at start up. Check your cranking pressure it should be bouncing between 7-12 PSI roughly. Anything higher causes hard starting.

You might have to separate the plug and add some di-electric grease and socket it 3 times and then snug the screw back up. That should help gain your connection.

I guess you going to measure the lift of each push rod correct?

P0216 code is going to be a wear issue code. The timing piston is most likely wore out and seized up. It could be low fuel pressure issues too but most of the time is the wear issue.

I found out on my 1996 Dodge the CAD unit had a vacuum leak in the diaphragm. So this made it weak to pull in both directions and typically had lag. I replace mine the problems are gone no issues. The NAPA vacuum motor was like $90 bucks but came as a full rebuild kit for that CAD unit.

The wild oil pressure reading tend to lead down the ECM path. But the common thing like a whole list of lo or hi volt codes. Typically the coolant gauge goes full swing and trips the check engine light and check gage light. Random revving of the engine and dead pedal.

Everyone here has good suggestions. Like myself I've got the same problem coming too. But I've got stainless steel body panels. So eventually I'll have to deal with my body panels too.

ECM is in direct control of the lift pump there is no relays for it. But if you using a after market fuel system like AirDog, Raptor or FASS then they all have a trigger relay for the fuel pump. Is the fuel pump under warranty yet? I would say look at returning the pump for warranty if so. If not I would open the pump up and inspect for damage parts.

Where is the fuel pressure sensor for your EV2's installed at? Most make the mistake of installing right at the VP44. Even with the snubber on it will still destroy the sensor. Like I done to resolve this I got mine remote mounted on the fender to give the water hammer distance to fade to the gauge. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/458-electric-fuel-pressure-gauges

Most likely not the APPS sensor or MAP sensor. You can unhook both and it should idle normally without them. Would be a good idea to get the codes though it gives more clues. I'm going to have to say it most likely injectors acting up. As they tend to age and wear they get pissy and pop at a much lower pop pressure. So I would consider having the injectors pulled and pop tested. A matter of fact my RV275's injectors failed the same way random misfire at idle fully warmed and under load it goes away. But on a pop test stand the pop pressure was as low as 240 bar way below 310 bar it suppose to be. Then as they start to pop they just piss a stream of fuel no atomization at all then POP! they would atomize the last bit. But diesel engines can burn liquid fuel it has to be in a atomize form so the cylinder heat can covert the liquid mist to a vapor then it burns.

Near failing state... Normal is 0.01 to 0.02 Volts AC Limit 0.1 Volts AC

Also if your get the PacBrake lock up controller it will help with this but you need to modify the valve body to get 2nd gear lock up other than that all you get is 3rd and 4th gear lockup.

Still hunt for solution or test so I'll keep asking around too.