Mopar1973Man

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/193-p0522-oil-pressure-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/148-p0117-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/216-p1475-auxiliary-5-volt-output-too-high http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/162-p0217-engine-overheat-condition http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/213-p1295-apps-sensor-supply-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low Looks like the ECM is gone. I would have the alternator AC noise tested to see if there is excessive AC voltage beating the rest of the electronics as well before replacing the ECM.

Once again its time for new seat covers. While I was last down in Emmett, ID I stop in Autozone and pickup a new set of seat covers. So far my factory seats are doing fair to OK. The driver seat is finally getting a tear on the outer edge from hauling my tail across it. The lower back of the seat is getting a bit thread bare. Passenger side is still good. But after getting the seat covers on and trimmed in looks good. Kind reminds me of a Ford design.

I had to do the same thing on a customers rig as well. It was idling a bit low. Boy talk about butter fingers... I must of dropped that 10mm wrench a dozen times before getting done with the project. But I got it idling about 750-800 roughly and customer was tickled. I can tell you that you can barely see the top of the bolt from working on top.

I gave Towhungerford a call and asked him about it. He's agreeing with my it sound like valve seal starting to go south on me. So who do I go to for a good quality valve seal set? Also I know I got to get the tool to do it. http://www.torkteknology.com/products/Cummins-24V-5.9-%26-6.7-Valve-Spring-Compressor-PN-CVSC010.html

Well after leaving my truck parked for a couple of weeks now. I fire it up and now I can visibly see oil smoke just a puff at initial start up and gone. If its parked in the shop you can smell hang in the air. As for driving there is no oil smoke under normal driving conditions. Now this might be park of the last bout I ran the exhaust brake and would see it after a long down hill run. I'm starting to wonder if the valve seals are getting sloppy? There is no blow by.

More or less the AC voltage is like static in a radio station. The lower the number the less static. The higher the number to 0.10 AC Volts then more static that is drowning out the audio. So its best to have the lowest but real life you always going to have a little.

I wonder about the 300 bar thing why is that? Stock rate is 310 bar.

0.00 VAC is PREFECT DC power. This would be with the truck not running at all. 0.01 VAC Excellent (Rare to see) 0.02 VAC Still really good 0.03 VAC Good 0.04 VAC Good 0.05 VAC OK but marginal 0.10 VAC Failed. I've done some random testing on vehicles to see where most normal number land. typically 0.02 to 0.04 about normal.

Kind of like undercoating or splatter paint. Each there own... I too think that it could of had a regular paint job and looked better.

Nope. All firewood.

Backwards. 1. Push the injector in. 2. Now push in your crossover tube. 3. Pre-torque the crossover tube. 4. Torque the injector cap. (89 in/lbs) 5. Finish tightening the cross over tubes. This allows the crossover tubes to push the injector where it needs to to center up for proper seal of the crossover tube.

Mine I've got a NAPA reman alternator on my truck had it tested at the store before I even paid for it. It tested out 0.01 to 0.02 AC volts. I was happy and paid the bill and left. All you got to do is require to have them bench test it for diode performance. If you want you could have it test with a digital meter too as its being spun. As for the Mean Green you have to consider re-wiring the charge lead and also getting a 220-230 amp fuse to change out the OE fuse. For daily driver its just way too much rebuilding to just get a low AC noise alternator.

Failed... Normal alternator is 0.01 to 0.02 AC volts 0.10 and greater is absolute failure.

Here is a few pictures of it after doing the head gasket.

Yea I caught scorpion this morning crawl around in the corner of the shop. Really neat to shine a black light on them they show up really well in the dark. Yea we got some weird critters running run down here.

No. This old school 7.3L glow plugs. As for the grid heater I'm sure the owner isn't going to pay big bucks. As for the connectors these are just good ol' push pins. Like 1 terminal temperature sensors.

Because as cetane goes up the ignition time of the fuel advances (takes less time to convert from liquid to vapor to ignition). But also the BTU content goes down and the ignition pressure spikes out with a hard explosion (the ping) instead nice long push (thud). If you want to clean you injectors there is no cleaner in a can or bottle that will clean anything in the fuel tank. Our 35 gallon fuel tanks is 4,480 ounces of fuel. Mixing in 4-16 ounces of anything in a sea of 4,480 ounces is like pissing in a pond. As for taking a injector out and soaking it in straight injector cleaner for 24 hours it will still be dirty 24 hours later. The only way you can clean then is to physically disassemble each one and clean all the parts by hand.

Give you an idea the thermocouple in my truck is about 8-9 years old. I do pull it out time to time to inspect it.

I'm a big fan of mechanical gauges. They don't need power or senders. They work even if the truck is push down a hill. But electric sender gauge always fail without warning and anyways looking for a mechanical gauge to verify a electric gauge.

Hey Gang... Lindy and myself are looking for a source for glow plug connectors for the older Ford 7.3L diesel. We've got 2 trucks now that have either broken glow plug connectors or badly damaged. Ford doesn't sell them unless you buy a full under hood wiring loom. NAPA doesn't list anything for it. Now one of the part counter guys is thinking maybe a coolant sensor plug might work. But I was going ask here to see if anyone else knows of a solution?

There is a rare thing that occurs where the AC noise level wipe out the ECM and creates what known as "Limited pedal". This is where the ECM seem to be governed out to like a set speed no matter what you do you can throttle more nor build any kind of boost. I would check AC noise level for the sake of knowing.

It's normal habit around here once a month to check all batteries. Automotive, RV, and the House batteries. You add distilled water to each cell like said above to the bottom of the collar ring inside. Then you need to always charge the battery after adding water. Those batteries above at my house batteries that power the house weigh in at about 125 pounds a piece and a total of 1,000 pounds. My last batch lasted just about 12-13 years. For all of them is about $4,500 for 8 of batteries. So yes you learn really fast on how to properly maintain batteries.

2. Is the fuel filter. Look close you can see the hand pump at the top of filter mount.

I've seen mine back in the day bone stock hit 1,400*F towing a flatbed trailer and a GMC/Chevy pickup. Yes EGT's can't and will get out of hand even stock.