Mopar1973Man

Can't see the video you'll have to post it on youtube. I don't need all these advertiser snooping on what I looking at. (listed in black bar at the bottom).

Could you post your video and pictures somewhere else photobucket is way too deep in snooping scripts and such my browser just don't like it.

I'm not exactly willing to say the VP44 is the cause yet. But I'm trying to think on single cylinder logic. Because if the VP44 typically is dead or dying then all cylinders are typically affected. But at what point does it turn independent is right after the rotor of the VP44 and entering the DV (Delivery Valves) then its separated system for each cylinder. I'm still trying to think it out as a single cylinder theory (intake air, compress, fuel is injected, BOOM!, exhaust and repeat.) This is why I can't quite say VP44 yet. Because 5 other cylinders are still working. So with compression in the 400 PSI realm, new injectors and drilled out crossover tubes I'm really starting to scratch my head. I'm thinking alone the lines of JL Welding and his problems. His wouldn't miss right away it took time for the piston to heat up and the crack would open up and allow compression to fade. Then the misfire would start. So what conditions do you have to have to get the miss fire?

Yes. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

Heater treater is for the blend door on the heater core. Correct if the vacuum is too weak or nothing at all you get DEFroster only. Most likely what happen is the A/C evaporator is plugged with dirt. Common issue where the evaporator sweats and travel dirt roads and presto a caked up brick. If you replace it make sure to use only MAX A/C if in dusty areas. No. Just plastic to plastic seal. It could be from the vent doors which are covered with a sealing foam or the sealing foam around the evaporator.

First thing is double checking the wiring between the ECM and the VP44. Wiring is fairly straight forward (pun intended!)... As for the P1689 code again I would be looking at... Fuel pump relay in the PDC. Good battery cables both positive and negative. Being the VP44 ground is on the battery cable not the body. Double checking the AC noise levels from the alternator. Being the alternator could be causing the failures of the electronics.

Compression test was good. Injectors are not the cause. Ok. Back up a second. Thinking out loud here. Now diesel engine ignites fuel by heat of compression (autoignition temperature). Fuel has to be sprayed in time by the injection pump and injector. If there was a high pressure leak it could cause the injector to fire late or not at all. But most leaks occur inside the head. If it was a pissy injector Ed's injectors just ruled that out. I know there is other things like delivery valves on the VP44 injection pump. Crossover tubes I think you said you replace one or all.

Jamie at CPP is now a vendor here at the site. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/154-cummins-performance-parts/ There is always Eric @ Vulcan Performance. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/151-vulcan-performance/ Unless there is another vendor out there people would like me to join up with?

When the light comes on it means there is a gauge outside its normal value. Are any gauges showing extremely low or high readings? You might want to check the cluster.

JAG you might want to read a thread I'm involved in over at CF. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/1419514-whats-our-beef-vp44.html

I've still got the tires in the yard I pop a pic of them.

There is other factors in this conversation that your not considering too. Like fuel chemistry, weather factors, loading of the vehicle and other modifications. Like you could have everything going against you and get poor MPG one day with the very same tune then everything being perfect the next and be really high MPG's. So any kind of tuning and MPG figures can't be done and a tank to tank basis but long term period like several months or year span.

I'm sure the answer is "Hell No." He's hoping that she will hit a deer some time hopefully enough to total the car but not injure her.

No kidding. This little Kia had very little room. The water pump pulley had to be removed and there is four 10mm head bolts holding the pulley on. The PITA was there wasn't any way to bar the bar pulley to get the last bolt out. Well... I did find a way eventually.

Talk about sitting in the "Hot Seat!"

Botched previous belt change. Not I said the fly...

Check for draw. Since you passing power into the seat motors some how draining on the batteries then the switch must be making a weak connection. You could unhook each seat motor one at a time to see which switch could be causing it. When you find the motor that is bleeding the current then when it unhooked the draw will vanish.

Well for now I would just unplug the electric seats. But what's funny I've happen to have a electric seat switch here for you if need be... But more than likely you have a bad power seat switch.

I've got 1 set of ST tires that where rated for 99 MPH. I actually ran them on the truck. Speed rating of a Q. Load Range G. Size 235/ 85 R16. So they do exist but not common place. What's funny is this set of tires where China made and worked wonderful on the truck for 30k miles which was typical tire life for me. https://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/VOMA/SOLID-TRAC-RADIAL-A-S-TRAILER/23024

Ummm... Here is ash and what it will do to your injectors. Yes. It can plug or mess with injectors spray.

Bringing here... http://speedsociety.com/crazy-fast-cummins-runs-9-81-spinning-four-tires/

I've also got radial ST tires on both trailers but neither tire is rated for above 65 MPH period. Maxxon and TowMax are the brands I'm running currently.

I'm pretty sure there is a few VW vehicles with diesel engines that are all wheel drive.

If you doing Nerf bars again go with the Bully Bars that are chrome finish. Mine are actually stainless steel and a bit of "aluminium brightener" works awesome to clean them up and make it look new again.

Top pic fuse 2 & 10 supply the circuit for the key switch. Fuse 1 supplies also to the Cab. There is 3 pages of power supply for this. 2002-Dodge-Cummins-Wiring.pdf