Dieselfuture

I'm in the same boat, this ABS crap is irritating

Tire tread is kind of designed that way, none of the knobs are identical but they look the same. Has something to do with harmonics.

I'm curious about end result, I had pretty much the same issue with mine and between fixing the alternator and changing injectors so far it's been good to me.

To me it looks like your rear abs sensor is bad or a weak connection on prongs, need to be above 1600 and below 2300

I know I tossed that idea, but if I drive like I'm the one to fix it, then there is no need for it. But I have got on it hard more than once and let off quick and had pretty good bark so I'm still debating. I just might one day. Need more things under the hood to worry about

The mod to the spring is more for constant psi, so it doesn't swing much. Shims are more for psi change. You can lightly stretch the spring, but you're playing with fire there and it will settle some to, shims/washers is probably safer for long run.

I was just going to say that

Yes, I actually feel honoured that Mike used my picture,

OK I get it now, it's not so much return fuel leak in the head but rather draining out VP. Because both lines T in at the back of the head.

your kidding Also make sure your check back side of compressor housing for Boost leaks with soap water, I ended up selling mine with light coat off rtv

In my understanding, blow off valve should work every time you let off the throttle, let's say at the preset of 5-10 psi just to keep positive pressure in the system. And not be based on maximum boost. But I guess to each their own and it can be set up multiple ways.

I had a Mazda rx 7 and it had some blow off's, I always liked the sound they made. May just do this on the truck for fun But not sure what sounds better, blow off or turbo bark

Can someone remind me why a return fuel leak causes hard starts.

Indeed

Nah just some random junk in there. All the money is bolted on ha ha. Nice to see you back.

I'll take 30 for mine. I probably have close to it in all the crap I fixed so far

My instant mpg meter on qwad just drops like a rock if I'm above 70 and it's very accurate now that I got it dialed in. It seems im constantly trying to build boost even going slight down hill. It could still be in my tuning, but don't think so. I'm close to 20 timing at 70mph summer was closer to 22 and I played with it too to see if there is much change, not really, which is wired. I need to drive it more and play with settings, I had it working good right before it cooled off and now chasing ghost. I'm not too worried as I know it'll come around. I didn't just gave up my 285s to have crappier mpgs at 75 with 265 so I'm determined to figure it out, just taking my time.

Same here, going from 285 to 265 hurt me a little crusing at 75, I now have to cruse at 70 or less. But going 60,65 is way better on mpg.

Be kinda hard to go from 4 door to retarded backwards doors. Never understood that though.

Feel your pain man, I don't see how bodies can wear much, they only house the internals, but I'm not an injector expert ether. I've had enough vehicles and most trouble free were always Japanese in the cheaper price range, that said if I ever buy another truck it will be a tundra more than likely, unless I can afford a new Cummins all deleted of course. It all depends on what needs to be done with the truck, heavy loads or just a little boat behind it and occasional house repair stuff.

Stop talking about Spicer ball joints, I just put a set of them in although I did buy them from Sadler powertrain where they built a lot of axles and not from eBay I hope there is a difference

Wonder what causes them to settle quicker than originals. Could it be springs that are being reused, tired and settle faster. I know that there's some wear of niddle and seat but should be minimal in first 20-30k and the big shim washer is always next to spring to take the abuse. There's got to be an answer, seems to be a common problem with reman injectors. I'm leaning towards springs

This is what I heard from few people that rebuilt turbos. EBay special turbos are a 50/50 chance you take, they ever last or don't and if don't they could grenade and cause serious engine damage. Personally I have too much time and money invested in my truck to put anything of importance on my truck that came from who knows where. If you got something for cheap just to beat on, sure why not. I have a buddy that can pice some junk together and beat the crap out of it and for the most part it will last, but would it trust it going from state to state, no.....

Someone may have flipped/rotated calipers and lines got kinked wrong way causing them to rub on tire.

This is who built mine, http://www.northamericanturbo.com They probably have parts for whatever you need. I have a 35/40 something else hybrid, but if you're not using exhaust brake that bolts to turbo with 5 bolts then I would just get sx362 I believe is what I was recommended, close to what I have now but with 4" exhaust outlet, mine is only 3".