Dieselfuture

Gear case bolts can come lose and fall out also.

I reused mine looked good to me, and you're right I haven't heard people talk too much about them going bad. But if you do put a new one in then you know it's new.

Here it is, just a joke of course.

Lol, I have one of them signs in my garage.

Test it at the alternator, battery's will smove it out and reduce ac noise some.

Tinfoil is good for keeping your phone from ringing and keep unwanted frequencies out of brain. As for AC noise, best to fix alternator, as it will slowly but surely fry other expensive things. Lol sorry couldn't resist.

I wonder if it's possible to do some kind of VFD (veritable frequency drive) on a pump. That way you could run cheaper filters and just adjust speed of the pump acordingly. Just an idea...

Check this thread out, maybe something similar.

Wow, I was right. ... in that case on our boat I just use a pump it looks like grease gun only it's a big syringe. http://m.ebay.com/itm/OTC-2359-Oil-Suction-Gun-New-/152278475921?hash=item2374812491%3Ag%3AaNMAAOSwzaJX~8Aa&_trkparms=pageci%3A9ee57bf8-2ff2-11e7-80f5-74dbd180729f%7Cparentrq%3Ace0af0c215b0aa12e189bcddfffc4d4d%7Ciid%3A1

By then he'll probably have a jet engine in there

No, I was just curious if that is what it does, in my mind I always thought why spin extra parts when you don't need to. And I'm a big fan of lock out hubs, but as expensive as that conversion is don't see it happening any time soon. I can understand why doge did it, save money and convince to driver, as most people that buy new vehicles want convince over durability as they're going to trade it in anyway. I thought cad was a dumb idea but in my mind better then always locked. I might be wrong as usual., lol.

Just edited my post You can see in pictures of this post that fork pin and sensor the trips 4x4 light https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12424-front-axle-cad-vacuum-actuator-to-manual-posi-lock/ @Mopar1973Man so when you don't have a cad, does your front drive shaft always spin then? @Mopar1973Man

If transfer case shifts and front shat locks, could be a cad. Something I just fixed on mine. It's more likely something to do with cad as the light for dash gets tripped when pin that holds shifting fork moves, so like stated above ether vacuum leak, or maybe vacuum pump. Is your hvac function properly, or stock on defrost. Either way check for vacuum leaks first, old vacuum lines get mushy and crak.

Just want to update this, got my posilock put in and it was pretty easy aside from routing cable and figuring out adjustment. I did come out fire wall and under intake horn and over driver motor mount and then on top of axle to cad, like @Buzzinhalfdozen suggested, made sure had no drag in cable. It's a bit too long, but it works out after threading it in and out 20 times through slightly different routes to get it just right, I taped it up so end of cable didn't get all dirty. I guess it's longer than needed incase your truck is lifted or something. Mounted to the bottom of dash frame just to the left of 4x4 shifter and inline with firewall hole. I drilled it just to the right of go pedal, there was an indentation there and it was saying drill here its perfect spot. You have to cut away floor mating and under hood some noise matting. I didn't take any pictures under hood of cable as you couldn't really see it that good with all the other junk. So as for cable adjustment I found out that if you push red button in and pull it out about an inch it locks in place, same for pushing it in. But the whole knob also rotates and you can move that inch in and out buy rotating it. Well its not recommended to use it this way because you can do damage to it but what I found out is if you engage it in buy pulling the knob out you can then rotate it slightly counterclockwise till it dead ends and then you know it's fully engaged. Same for disengaging when you push knob in rotate it just a bit clockwise. It may sound confusing but if you ever get one it will make since. As for actual usage you have to make sure transfer case is engaged first before you go to pull on the knob, otherwise it grinds the collar. And disengagement is bit more tricky, seems to work better if you push knob in first to disengage cad then put tcase back in 2wd. Haven't tried stabbing brakes yet but I think it may help.

Do you still use Factory fuel basket or do you have a draw straw

@TJ_00Cummins have you data loged and see if you're hitting 4095 for max canbus? Reason I'm asking is 126@30 may or may not max out your canbus. Might want to start at 70 for 0 and ramp it up with a stipper curve, then decide where you want your wiretap to come in play.

Yeah that's kind of what I like living in the remote area just far enough, but yet with a short drive you're able to get to town, I just for some reason like it up north. I live in Iowa and there isn't a whole lot to do, sure we got few things. But quite a few people know a saying "welcome to Iowa, hope you brought something to do" I suppose you could say that about other places. And I guess that's why they say grass is greener on the other side. Personally if you are planning on driving your truck with that turbo that is leaking, I would order a rebuilt kit with all the gaskets you may need and get a set of injectors you want. It would still be cheaper even if you have to buy few tools to do it. And later on when you have time get it done. Plus you can always say I rebuild my own turbo and It was easy.

@Timburrr How do you like living in remote area like that, I'm jealous in the way. Always wanted to leave up north with lots of lakes and beautiful outdoors. One of the things I wait on, is our annual trip to Canada to go fishing.

@Timburrr I rebuild a turbo in the past on a different vehicle, they are not hard like mentioned. And I believe the only difference between hx35 and hx35w is one has a wastegate the other one doesn't.

Mine was a bi... but it did pull back like mentioned above. Had a leaky light on the roof, was wondering how I was getting water coming out of push light.

Didn't someone earlier mentioned that bad intake heaters can fry an ecm? If it can happen, then I would rather have them on a tugle and prevent ecm from getting cooked. Who cares about the codes, imo. Just thinking out loud.

Maybe try running standard fuel and not hard, I haven't messed with hard fuel at all so I can't help there.

@TJ_00Cummins with bigger injectors like you have you want to start your 0 psi at maybe 80% or so to get smoke cleared up. Try this one, it's something @Me78569 posted in the beginning of this thread Power Levels: 6 Fuel Load Timing: 2 Low PSI Timing Reduct: 2 Timing Reduct Scaling: 100 Light Throttle Timing Adv: 2 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 Timing vs rpm 1500: 16 2000: 18 2500: 23 3000: 25 Timing Max: 26 Fuel Stretch: 1700 TPS Pump max: 100 TPS Pump Min 20 Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:0 Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 8 Boost Scaling: 40 RPM Limit: 3500 Power Reduction: 15 0 PSI %:84 1 PSI %:84 2 PSI %:85 3 PSI %:86 4 PSI %:87 5 PSI %:88 6 PSI %:89 7 PSI %:90 8 PSI %:92 9 PSI %:94 10 PSI %:96 11 PSI %:98 12 PSI %:100 13 PSI %:104 14 PSI %:108 15 PSI %:112 16 PSI %:116 17 PSI %:120 18 PSI %:124 20 PSI %:128 22 PSI %:132 24 PSI %:136 26 PSI %:138 28 PSI %:138 30 PSI %:138

Does it do it even with IAT fooled to 143f?