Dieselfuture

You made it sound like the shake goes away if you slightly steer one way, made me think not a carrier bearing. But yes it certainly could cause a shake.

They help balance your wheels and tires, may help with shaking. Don't expect too much with 35 but they do work. I don't think it's your carrier bearing as your shaking gets better when steering a bit left or right.

This kid nda tells me still problem with wires, you messed with them and everything was fine now it's back. I'd make sure all connections are in good shape. Make sure ac is below .03vac these trucks really don't like ac noise and bad connections. I've had my shear of on electrical gremlins and in the end after WT and other mods it's seems fine now. I do have to kick the tire every so often just to let the truck know I'm paying attention. These things are alive, no attention they run like crap, too much attention they break for no reason, kicking a tire few times a week keeps it happy.

Pretty much anywhere you find a good place for it. It's a stiff cable can't really kick it too much. The red knob by the go pedal.

Welcome to the club. First off I would probably not go back to that mechanic. How did he determine that the head was bad. Even if the head was bad he obviously doesn't know much beyond working on a stock truck. Put quad bal on, make sure it has v2 tuning software, then get a set of 7x10vco injectors request to have pop pressure set to 320 bar. With proper tuning on the quad you'll love that setup, well at least I do, for now, someday if I'm lucky enough I'll get twins.

Did did it get blocked by shavings from the other hole you drilled ? A bit confused on how can it get blocked. Thinking I'll do this mod over the weekend just for fun, it's been a few days since I worked on the truck

If you chose to run a filter in the return line don't use this kind in the picture. I got 2 of them from ebay I believe and both did the same thing, split overtime where they were put together with glue ? or melted together. I'm now using the one in ibmobil article.

Just had a random advertising pop up, maybe it'll make a good antirust for the truck https://squirrelpiss.com/

Nice project.

What did you spend if not a secret

I feel that way a lot myself, not just here but life in general.

22 load is not bad really, try increasing timing half a degree see what happens, or decrease. My mpg is not that great in the winter either. I think my average is around 16 in winter. Summer if I drive nice I'll see over 20, but most of the time it's 18-19 I can't drive long distances slow have too many things going on. last summer I hit a sweet spot few days in a row I did drive slow around 60 for about 300ml and got just over 25 mpg hand calculated, got to say I was in shock. Usually if I can squeeze 20-21 I'm happy. Tried that again and couldn't do it, wind temperature and everything else must of been just right for them few days. Timing has a lot to do with mpg, probably more than anything else. It's not as simple as saying 20 is where it's at, weather changes 20 degrees and timing may need to be adjusted again, plus fuel quality winter/summer bio etc. Noticed your engine temp is at 188, be better if it was low 190s.

I put no off set ones on front with tube facing the rim, the are right against the rim but not being pushed by the rim to be deformed. And the other set that had an off set on the rear, plenty of space there. I do have 3rd gen breaks too.

The only way pad will look like a wedge is caliper and rotor not centered. Slider or can your caliper bracket be bent

I was thinking something along these lines too ^^^ still weird that steering wheel is off to one side. I had my truck slightly pulling to one side one time and after rotating tires it went back to normal. But steering wheel off... something is putting drag on it, assuming you didn't touch anything else but breaks. Make sure to use high temperature brake caliper grease, don't use anti-seize it dries out and things get sticky.

Quad doesn't adjust load, it shows you the load on the engine, like Mike said load is how much fuel your injecting it given moment of time. More load worst mpg, to reduce load you can play with canbus fuel and timing. Also drag on the truck plays a role. Looking at the first picture where you have low egts, engine load off 22 and timing off 19.5 seems reasonable for winter tune. Although 22 is a touch high for good mpg, 16-18 would be much better. My light throttle load limit is set at 23 meaning if I'm above that load on the engine then my timing drops down from cruise state. What level do you drive around on, I've been using level 3 forever it does everything I need.

My quad has instant mpg, it's called eco in the app

After you figure out lose joints, these may help https://www.centramatic.com/wheel-balancer.rhtml?modelNumber=300-318 I've been happy with them so far, much better than using beads inside the tires. Not %100 shake free but it's life time balance, not just tire the whole rotating assembly. May not work as good with larger tires.

In our case it's in the return to tank line fitting screwed into the pump, yours may not have it if you only have 2 lines, on in from tank on out to vp44, we have 3 lines on the pump. That's why on cheaper pump there's a regulator, although I have never held one so I don't know if it has a spring and ball.

That's good to hear, I remember there was a lot of talking few years back about how quad module can get fryed especially if your vehicle is dead and you're getting jumped. I believe even guys at quadzilla were saying make sure to disconnect it before jumping. I've always been paranoid about it.

If it's spring and ball issues then you need to modify the spring so the ball doesn't get stuck in it. Weird that this came up, we went skiing today and on the way back I noticed my fuel pressure was barely at 14, came home and took the ball out and it has a nice deep grove all around and one spot had some scuff marks. So I put another ball in (I had a spear) and now back to normal 19psi. These balls do wear out after so long, at least I'm on 3rd one now. 1st one got changed when I got the pump, was bad when pump was new, wouldn't hold pressure, fass send me a free one. Not sure how long ago 6-7 years now and now another ball went in. Back in business.

I would think they can jump a starter to make sure it's not the problem before replacing it. ECM is sealed and shouldn't have issues from oil. Good advice above, make sure all the connections are good.

I believe so, an amp is quite a bit, so yeah I'd say it goes below that. I had few beers and don't feel like going to a garage to check I'm sorry