Dieselfuture

If you gonna make them leave some without led, depending on outcome I may get one and I would not want it to glow. I'm sure there are others that would not want the light.

They look rusty, do you even use brakes. Remind me of my Honda, I put a lot of hwy miles and not much stop and go, they too got some rust. I actually use them hard once in a while when getting of ramp, wait till end going somewhat fast and then brake hard just to keep them clean.

I personally like the one I use in my truck, it used to be called a draw straw 5, maybe it still is. It replaces factory in basket lift pump. Reason I liked it is because basket travels up and down with fuel tank expansion, a lot harder to screw that up vs cutting draw straw to length. Either way you do it make sure you use all half inch lines throughout don't cut corners.

@015point9 that's the same exhaust brake I have on my truck seem to work very well. How long did you have yours.

I would have to say it's probably your apps sensor, since you can see it showing 100% percent when it's actually not. Just a guess but if it was me that's probably what I would change, make sure you buy a Timbo, it's at the end of this article

I have a moded hx35 62/67/12 got it from http://www.northamericanturbo.com They charge 100 for core, I kept mine for a spear, it was just over 800 I believe to my door may be different now. Got it in less than a week, I believe I ordered it Tuesday and had it Friday or something like that. Reason I did that is to keep my exhaust brake that bolts to the back of it. K27 would be a good one too for exhaust brake. I considered it but decided to go with a moded hx. Someone here recently got a k27 and seem to be very happy with it.

This may be off-topic, but when I was having issues with valve seals failing after a new head rebuild because they would work themselves off the seats and get hammered by spring retainers, I had to come up with a solution which ended up being using Ford valve seals that I modified to fit on my head. Not the best way by any means but I did not want to take the head off to do machine work to accept the right style of top hat valve seals. So far they are holding up. Where I'm going with this is when I removed valve springs and seals, there was a little bit of carbon between the valve stem and the valve guide, the valves were a bit sticky going up and down because of carbon. That would probably contribute to more wear between valve and the guide. My assumption is that this carbon works itself in there when I use the exhaust brake. In conclusion, some put 500k on the head using exhaust brake and don't seem to have issues and in my case half the valve guides were shot with 157k and po didn't have to exhaust brake, I installed it at 130k I kind of doubt that in 27k I wore out guides using exhaust brake. But wanted to note that carbon works itself between the valve and the a guide when using one.

Here is mine I just posted Patiently waiting

That blows my mind @dripley every time you say you have 450k + miles on your original driveshaft U joints

Do you remember how much it was, all I can find now is plastic

Luckily I don't know a whole lot about automatic transmissions, so I'm not much of a help. Could you possibly put @IBMobile mystery switch to control torque converter manually.

I too change filters when pressure is starting to drop below normal, although last time it did that it was ball and spring issue, after changing filters pressure did not come up, I have a ball valve installed before and after fass so I closed after valve and let all pressure go back to tank through ball and spring for 30 seconds maybe and that fixed it, pressure came back up. I suppose you don't need the ball valves, just bump the starter few times to get most of fuel to go back to tank.

I'm not so much concerned of sump being illegal, I just don't like crap hanging low like that. Just asking for something to happen. In tank draw straw on mine and 0 problems, like @dripley mentioned as long as it's done right same goes for what @Mopar1973Man has, a draw straw outside of basket and no problems.

I used to care for some of these people especially the older ones missing a limb or something. Never know what they went through, but now most of them on the phone acting like you owe them something I definitely have no respect for them. Heck even some people I know through others, they will spend $20-30 at convince store and pay triple and then complain about not having money and feed their kids junk food etc. Sad picture, them are the type working at Walmart and convenient stores too, usually have trash in the yard and house look like dumpster, yeah they can do better but for whatever reason chose not to. There was an article about while back, they found a dead homeless person with 30some thousands in cash stashed all over their person.

It's not just that, it should also be about respect for others and self discipline that not common anymore

I still can't believe that was the outcome with spicers, did you at least get your money back for them. I'm hoping I won't have same experience but time will tell

I've done several pinion brake setups on my mud trucks that work awesome, they are illegal on the road and they do put wear and tear on pinion bearings. They can also get hot pretty quick as drive shaft spins a lot faster than Wheels but they have a lot of stopping power. Using it strictly for parking brake or even for emergency means to slow down, should work good. Just keep in mind if it's open differential (no locker)it'll only keep one wheel from spinning. I did these brakes on 2.5 ton Rockwell axles, there are a lot of kits out there already made up, I wouldn't be surprised if there are some for Dana axles.

So 3157 switchback is front, 3156/3157 is rear, basically rear can work in front if you didn’t want the switchbacks? And do you know the reverse bulb number in led? P.S. it seems a little bright on your front clear lenses for upcoming traffic? Maybe not, hard to judge from video.

Sorry to hear that

If nv5600 wasn't so expensive I wouldn't be scared trying diferent fluids. My Mustang I had called for automatic fluid in t5 and I mixed gear oil and tranny fluid along with other crap and never had a problem, of course I blew 3rd gear out of it more often then changing oil. Few times I had it fixed by the shop and then I started rebuilding it myself as it got expensive.

Cool, can you scan your abs wheel sensors while you drive, I'm curious what they will show as you said back when you changed your front wheel bearings the light stayed on for months then went away. The screen should show this if it has that option. If you don't get time don't sweat it, I'm just not sure if I want to pull brand new Timpken bearing out and see if rockauto will warranty it. Maybe it will go away like yours after some time

I too got my quad when they first come out and experienced similar issues. Many times I thought about selling it and getting an edge. As time went by I played with Tunes and got to a happy enough spot to get by. As soon as v2 tuning came out thanks to @Me78569 contribution of programming, it instantly became a game changer on vp44 trucks. If you got a basic knowledge of computers and software you should be able to upgrade your old module to new V2 tuning yourself. I'm not that bright but somehow I did it.

Almost sounds like apps to me

Man Ontario sounds like a place for neutral bathroom place, not sure if I'd be looking there at all, bring her home and find out that she's packaging You're in a tough spot man, I hear you having friends that know people help a lot. One plus to leave in city I guess but like mentioned before, a lot of us wouldn't mind leaving in more remote place like you, it's a toss up. Bars is definitely not a place to meet long term relationship unless you get lucky, gym would be an ok place of you can join one someplace, get your exercise and maybe meet someone.

I went with original spicer stuff from local Sadler Power Train, not sure how long they will last. Some had very bad luck and others good. Too early to tell ye for me. Seems original stuff lasted longest, it would made since to go with same but quality may be different from back then. It's a tough call all around. Just put new Timpken front wheel bearings in (made in usa) and one is dropping signal, not sure if it's bearing or abs module or wiring, seems like a bearing at this point. Got Timpkens because of reviews and made in USA now not sure, I'll try to warranty one of them our in spring through RockAuto and if they will warranty it out and abs/brake light goes away I'll know it a faulty bearing. Realy sad that we are dealing with this crap.