Me78569

Power on the output of both relays when they click on? Test the wire going from the relay to the grid for continuity then check for continuity from ground to the pos lead to check for a break in the element itself.

Firstly I understand your frustration, I deal with install issue / bugs every day at my real job lol. However that means I know how to look for the issue. First lets start with EXACTLY what you did on the Quad before starting the truck, that will help me understand better what could be causing issues. 1. Did you change levels or apply a custom tune before starting the truck after first install or after you disconnected the Quad? Or did you just connect the quad box and start the truck? (either way is fine I just have to know what I am looking for) 2. when you tried to drive the truck and it was slow are you %550 sure you connected the map sensor back to OEM? I am going wager a bet you have a P0234 or p0236 code telling you the map was disconnected when trucks power was on. If the map was disconnected the truck would be a dog since the ecm would never see more than 0 psi of boost. Your decription of the truck matches perfectly. 3. the diangostics on the Iquad are not compatable with 2nd gen trucks. If you see that choice in your list on the Iquad then you need to select the correct vehicle profile on the Iquad. the Diagnostics menu item does not appear if you choose a 2nd gen profile. Start iquad app > settings > Vehicle selection > choose the V2 dodge 2001 -2002 profile. 4. I am sure you are more than capable of wrenching on your truck so do not take this as you made a mistake, but the VAST majoity of issues I have seen related to the Quadzilla install where due to the wrong tap wire being connected. Did you check for 12v Key on engine off on the pump tap wire? It's the easiest way to know if it is tapped correctly. How was the pump tapped before? Was it a positap or a clip? Did you physically remove the pump tap to install a new one? I would check this VERY closely as we all make mistakes and if we are purely playing the odds in terms of what I have seen I would say the pump tap wire is to blame for your issues. I would disconnect the Pump tap wire from the Quad just to be safe until we narrow the issue down. If it is connected to the wrong wire somehow then it could backfeed and cause all sorts of issues. 5. Did you remove ANYTHING to allow easy access? Intake horn? Apps? ANYTHING? I have done this time and time again, I check something and remove something unrelated then forget to connect it again. Again not to say you are bad at wrenching, just that everyone does this type of stuff we are human.

It's so stupid easy to do. Literally just put the tail of hte projector through the hole in the housing and tighten the nut on the backside.

Yep I read it. Need some coffee. @crf450ish It's very likely that something got knocked adjar when installing things. I've seen this numerous times. The likeliness that something is damaged is next to none. Give me some time to write up some things to check, but I would start by going over everything in the area again with a fresh set of eyes. At 2 am it is easy to miss something, been there done that.

Any DC powered electrical device is not going to like being blasted by AC power. Since our entire electrical system is DC 12v everything will get damaged given enough time.

I wouldn't bother personally. I am sure Dana engineering specs load rate and heat vs capacity.

I will say the new timing stuff has added a good bit of under the curve meat. I think everyone agree's that throttle response is improved.

So if your boost tuning % is higher on your performance tune then the map = gph will be off per tune you do. IE if you cruise at 5 psi and your tune setting at 5 psi is 105% on your performance tune it will read one way vs your eco tune with might cruise at 5 psi but only be %103 of oem. the OBD link will only be calibrated to 1 tune.

I don't think that is accurate. I think mikes MPG numbers went up because the OBD link was expect x amount of TPS = x amount of fuel.

dont you be putting those words in my mouth

@Mopar1973Man was this hand math or odblink ? If you canbus fueling is more aggressive your OBDlink will show higher mpg, as it uses some caluclation of fueling per load to get mpg. If you decrease the pedal movement needed then your load reduces and calculated mpg goes up also. Same way as the overhead computer. I have not found any difference in mpg based on canbus fueling with my testing. But I could be missing something.

If you wanna have some real fun, change the pump low limit psi to ~0-3 psi And the pump min % to say %25 lol then go wide open throttle and wait for the cloud to clear

starting in 3 or 6 cyl mode won't create white smoke in itself. I would blame the white smoke on ambient temps. maybe 1 of your 2 grid relays isn't working? Too much timing normally doesn't cause smoke issues, it would be too little that would cause white smoke...just ask @TFaoro about the static timing we tried way back when lolol.

I know of one guy that did it. It's a neat idea, but I much prefer to take my phone in the house to tune with. I don't know that I would enjoy tuning on the stereo. You do have to jump through hoops to get it to install. What hoops I have no idea.

1. Set this at a PSI that is above your normal DD cruising PSI. This limit is set to prevent cruising time from engaging if boost is above that limit, IE going over a hill. Typically in the 8-12psi region is where I would set it, but that depends on your psi at highway cruise. 2. That's a known bug in the IOS version of the software. Typically you want this setting at 2 - 4 * of advance for optimal mpg at highway speeds. Keep in mind this is a base 17* setting at 2400 rpm. So if you want 20* at 65, set your cruise timing to ~3 -4 * so that when RPMS are at 2k then your timing will be at 20* Mess with it some to find what works best for you. Just remember it is setting your max cruise timing at 2400 rpm, it will ramp down in a linear fashion to 1400 rpm, 3* span or ~ 1* per 330 Revs.

Ouch @jlbayes another CPP horror story

turbos work on pressure difference across the turbine. A t4 will flow more, but it will take more volume to get the same pressure. IE it will take more revs to get the turbine moving. If you had a need for the flow of a t4 then you might want ot consider it, but for your setup a t3 will flow more than enough for your power goals. Generally speaking there is no need for more than a T3 on a VP44 5.9 and single turbo

Yea, it's very hard to try and guess that it will overshoot with so many different fueling mods out there. I will start ramping down boost 2 psi before hte limit is reached, then it will backdown quickly until boost falls and hold that backdown until the low limit is reached in which case it will start to add uel back again but at %25 of the rate it pulls it.

Cruise timing will start at 17* at 2400 rpm. This is the only way to ramp down timing as revs fall. so you want to set your cruise timing to be whatever you would want at 80 mph. If you want cruise at 65 to be 17* then you would want to set cruise timing at 80 to be ~18-19* the way it was working was only allowing you to set a timing value for 1 situtation. This way you can set timing as the fastest you will travel and timing will fall as speed falls. at 65 mph you need less timing than at 80 mph. The hope is by keeping it linear for cruise you can keep mpg timing in the right spot across a wider range of speeds. @Mopar1973Man spiking beyond the limit will happen, but it will reel back quickly and try to settle.

Cruise timing now tries to get your desired timing at 2400 rpm. This way you can set your timing at the fastest you want to drive,then have it automatically come down as revs drop. your rpms are at the lower end of the cruise timing range. If you want 17* at 1600 rpm, I would put your cruise timing setting to ~2- 2.5*

@TFaoro you're right i'm bored.

http://www.d-series.org/forums/forced-induction/120686-holset-turbo-specs-hy-hx-h1c-wh1c-h1e-wh1e.html

Safety defuel. If you set egt limit to say 1300 the quad will hold fueling at a spot where max egt is below that. Same for boost, say you set defuel for 30 psi, the quad will fuel normally until 30 psi then start to pull fuel. the Quad will pull as much fuel as needed to keep egt and or boost where you want it. I personally don't use the defuel stuff as I dont see a need, but others might.

That's a lot of turbo for 7 x .010's I would run the 62, I would guess you would be a lot happier.