015point9

https://ccrvoc.com/ Here is a Forum for them. Might help you see if parts are still available or common problems. Don't be scared away if you see lots of problems. Manufacturer is Forest River and there's just a ton of them out there so you going to find lots of problems written... simply because there's lots of them out there. Most rv's need TLC and most are nothing more than a wobbley box on wheels.

Might help to keep you on track or helpful hints See Inspection check list at http://changingears.com/rv-checklist-inspection.shtml

I'll never do a sump again or spend $$ for a drawstraw. Bulk head fitting thru fuel module (and to plug drawstraw hole) 1/2 inch (diesel compatible pipe) down to where you suck fuel at. Put in a bowl if you like, return fuel drizzle into bowl. Drill a few holes in sides of bowl if you'd like. Just my opinion after a sump spring a leak.

Forget how much torque on those thermostat bolts but I ended up breaking one. So you might want to take it easy.

After putting the head back on after couple thousand miles or so are you supposed to double-check those ARP bolts? Just wondering.

Might help?

Might help?

I'm almost a thousand pounds tongue weight and when my airbags were tied together (single air line) and go around a corner, air bleeds one side to the other. No big deal but noticable. Now with airlines on each bag that terminates under my sidestep. No more bags getting unequal pressure. I also am able to use the plug in the cigarette lighter air compressor. I get the level out of the trailer put it on the bed rail and I just fill up the bags and watch the bubble level and stop filling when I get same "attidude" as stock. Not sure if I'm doing it right or if there's a better way but it works for me. I used air brake tubing and used a sharp knife (first "wack" at installing) and had two very small leaks then redid it with a vinyl tube cutter when cutting the tubing and no more leaks.

It would help retirees if the government would stop their war on savers.

And when you got to replace a washing machine or dishwasher or refrigerator that money is gone. Pretty hard to make that money back. Auto expenses get cut dramatically, our food bill actually went down. Pulling the camping spots Sunday afternoon after all the working folks we have to go back home.

As much traveling as you do the instant you retire, call your insurance agent and tell him you are now traveling about 3,000 miles a year. get some of that money back you paid him

Harbor freight here. Tire bearings, tire temps, neighbors radiator showed some spots colder than others and dont forget important stuff like...finding in-laws cat hiding in the bushes, temp control cooking with Dutch oven

https://www.lowes.com/pd/KD-Tools-Brake-Resetting-Gauge/1000973404?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-pla-_-216-_-soshandtools-_-1000973404-_-0&placeholder=null&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2NCJuK365gIVGP5kCh1M8gMuEAUYASABEgJOBfD_BwE Brake drum gauge

That one chuck with a rubber hose that's why I bought it, the long metal one not enough flexibility to reach in to get good seal to air up. maybe putting a bit of pressure on it been to bend it a tad. Careful with steel, brass a little easier to bend a tad.

That looks alot better than it sounds

Here's a pic of all my extended reach stuff. No extensions to leak. No hassles with branded lines.

I'll post a picture of that tool I have at my next time I run across it.

I've done away with valve stem extensions maybe 10 years now. But I do have a gator caps on. I picked up a long reach valve core extension remover to remove/tighten etc valve cores. And I check or add air with an offset fuel head air chuck. Very little chance of failure running no extensions. Hardest part now is holding flashlight to get ahold of the cap. If you've had a failure, check out people that run large fleets. U-haul for instance. At work we had lots of failures with valve extensions or the braided line rubbing on stuff till we went with gator caps only and reach in with tools to get job done, versus extending the valve stem out. Where I worked before retirement had the contract with these folks linked below. Delivered them to tire wholesale places that would in turn sell them to tire retailers. Their history, very interesting. https://www.dillvalves.com/whydill/history-of-dill/

Just in case you need this hopefully you don't

Have to tried calling BD? I had a talk with BD several years ago about a tech issue on an older exhaust brake. Ended up talking with kid or grandkid. He was very helpful. By the way...Also remember getting charges on my phone bill because he was in Canada.

I vacuum mine out with a wet dry vac. PVC fitting at the end of the vacuum tube maybe down to half inch maybe vinyl hose, works good

Mike.. twice now I've had to attend almost "mandatory" caregiver classes. So far 2 yrs for my Mom in the early 2000's and 3 yrs now for my wife. Sounds like a bad words. But Anybody you were caring for will be in worse shape if you don't keep up on your health. Next week I've got an angiogram to see how bad the plumbing is plugged up in my heart, don't know what the hell we're going to do if I have to get something done. Wife can't even get out of bed by herself and no family within 5 hours. Not a pity party, just saying dont forget yourself in everything else going on.

When my 01 ABS light went off, turned out it was the connection right above the rear diff. To this day I got a hose clamp screwed around the connection. To trouble shoot, I disconnected the connection and put in little jumper wires. I don't know if 98 1/2 and 01 is a same wiring.

Wasn't their some people on here that when head came off they discovered other issues with the things on top, . Truions or some name like that, that added lots$$$ to the job. Something hard plastic part?

What's your feelings for using those studs to prevent leak in the first place?