dripley

My first was a Banks Ottomind back in 05. It came with an exhaust system, gauges and what not. 75 hp, tapped the pump and no adjustments. Simplicity I was for that. It crapped the bed and I went with Comp. Still simple. The Quad appears a bit complicated, but reading what I have here has helped me understand it better. I still think for me it will be a challenge. But now if I win raffle........

I like you intend to "rod up" in couple years. Part of my compensation includes all my fuel too, going to miss that one myself. I have always thought the million mile thing gets misconstrued. I think it's more geared to the person 50k to 100k a year and not the 10k to15k and a year driver. I am approching 470k and 17.5 years of ownership. Never in my wildest dreams back in 01 did I think I would still be driving it today. I have had issues for sure, bad ecm, trany, one VP I paid for, fuel system, and just replaced the head gasket. Still surpised at other OE items that are still on the truck. My biggest nemesis is electrical gremlins, my very weak spot. All in all I have more than gotten my moneys worth out of it and don't think I will partmwith it. Parts are much easier for us to get our hands on over here so I feel your pain. That is big factor. If I can get past the electrical part I can handle the mechanical part. I intend to have my son take me on last ride in this truck. But when talking to him about it he told me it better be running good or he was going to call ahead and tell them to dig a bigger hole. Feel the love. Good luck to you and find what you want to tinker with. Think Imammsticking with this one.

Mine still shows who.

Well good luck with it. I gues just a matter of learning the quirks of the vehicle.

I am still running the RV's with the comp and while not big power house it does the job. You wont be sorry with the EZ and RV's unless the power bites you. I have to admit, knowing what I know today, that I would have bought the Quad instead had it been available when buying the Comp.

I thought the rockers on would be a bit tedious. But was pleasently surprised as to how easy that part was. Think I spent more time bagging and tagging every thing for the cylinder they came from. Then I ended up putting the 6.7 rockers on there and they did not have a specific home. I did however use the adjusters off my old rockers and the original push rods. Those I put back where they came from.

There is no time limit in Mopar land.

The best way to tell is on a fill up. Calculate the mileage and see what happens. New mine got 18 mpg on the highway. Now 467k miles later I am at 19.5. RV275's and an Edge Comp, pump tapped. Most all claim "possible mpg gains" but thats iffy at best. Just have to see what yours responds too.You are already on the right track with the comp, tap the pump and see when you are ready.

I think if both the ECM & PCM came off a the same working truck and dont work on yours that it would have to be a wiring issue, grounds, or god knows what. There is a lot to match to know for sure.

the oil pump is the heart of the engine, the valve body is the heart of the tranny. There are multiple beings that drive these machines we love.

I was pretty shocked than nothing I took of my truck for the head gasket swap was seized. Not surprised on the drivers side but the exhaust side bolts had never been turned other than the turbo back in 07. I did leave behind a little DNA here and there.

I have to assume this is the filter everyone speaks of. The part with the 3 triangular holes in it. I am one of the ones that still have the oe ones. Mine appear to be of very hard steel. I chucked them in a drill to spin them while polishing the ends with a scotch brite. The chuck did not leave a mark on them. I thought they were made of tool steel, the late models any way. I have heard the early models were different but have never seen one.

I think the most important gauge to you is going you be the tranny temp. In stock trimyou will be hard pressed to o er temp the engine. 1100* is not bad on the engine, matter of fact it will burn any carbon off the injectors. 1200 or 1300 is not bad on it pulling grades like you describe. Now if you start seeing temps like that on flatter ground I would be cocerned. I towed with mine in stock trim for the first 5 years while under warranty pulling a 12k pound 5th wheel. No gauges. They are pretty low on power but will pull house. Big thing to remeber as @015point9 mentions is cooling them down when you stop. Especially if you are parking the truck after that climb. Your tranny is taking the beating. I idle until the egt reads 300 or less. Not sure what temps to bring the tranny to. No need to stop after pulling a grade like yhis if you are moving on, it will cool itself just fine on flatter ground. Bottom line is you are not going hurt the truck pulling that trailer. Just take reasonable care of it and watch the gauges.

What is your fuel pressure while cranking?

It is still sitting on a dolly under my work bench. At the time parts were scarce and expensive and rebuilders questionable. I took a chance on the junkyard one with 52k on it. $2500 to my door. Turned out pretty good. As far as loosing 4th, it had been whining some and then while driving home one day I went to shift into 5th and it stuck in 4th. Had to pull off the road and man handle it out of gear. Never went back into 4th. All the other gears worked fine and the tranny made no funny noises but I parked it and found the replacement. All this happened around 250k. So I guess to answer your question, No.

I lost 4th gear in the oe 6 speed pre e brake. Put another from a junk yard with 52k on it per them. I have put 220k more on it and about 150k with the e brake with no harm.

Same here, I enjoyed mine towing or not. It worked quite well on tailgaters.

They have a $400 rebate untill 5-15. Sure makes it tempting.

E brake is a great thing. I loved mine until it died. Now its just a lump on a shelf. I will have another one day. It will extend brake life extraordinarly long.

I put these on mine about 70k miles back and they are holding up quite well. The rotors are holding good even with the ceramic pads. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,138 Does not seem to link the part for some reason. I used the Durago BK70258166 with ceramic pads. For $77.79. Pretty much rolled the dice on them but have been pleasantly surprise.

It is possible. It only takes a second of something out out of whack to throw the code. It begins intermittently until it fails completely. Lets see what some of the others have to say.

I am no expert either but I have done the mod and my wheel sensors wires are in the rear of the engine bay while the mod is in the front. As far as the tone wheels and sensors causing more ac voltage, that is well above my pay grade.

You might have found your issue.

I think finding a new will be difficult and very expensive. I would want to know more about their 1500 dollar one before purchasing. It may be possible to reprogram the ECM you have but I dont know that. ACS is a vendor here who could answer that question. They are in the vendors forum with contact info. Be worth a phone call. Their ECM repair is cheaper than 1500 bucks. The more I have thought about the one I had it seems it was for an auto and not a manual tranny.

Pigs as in slow. While in stock trim it will pull a house but it is slow getting up to speed.