dripley

I am sorry to hear this. I was one one of the ones who speak her several times years back when I wouldcal, and you were not there. She had a way of getting into my head that was uncanny. Always trying to help. I know you have had to make some difficult choices but I beieve Rosalie would have made the same ones. You will be in our thoughts and prayers. May Lord smile upon you as I know he is for Rosalie. Your friend, Dave Ripley

Well it seems you have it covered. You will like it. I gross about 23k with my 5th wheel and am able to come down I40 out of Black Mtn on a 6 mile 6% grade in 4th turning about 2500 rpm and only use my service brakes maybe a half dozen times breifly where steepens to 7%. Not fast but safe.

I am not the expert on this for sure but is my understanding that the torque converter has to stay locked while the ebrake is in use or you damge things.

I am not a CR guy by any means but sure seems to me that you ought to have more fuel in the rail than that. Maybe @AH64ID or @Mopar1973Man could help with this.

Is your tranny set up for the exhaust brake?

We have several threads on this thru the years. I get headache every time it comes up. Crapshoot is an accurate description. I am running Moog on mine with 250k on them now. Just lost the tie rod end on the pitman arm. I have new Moog waiting to go on it when the weather permits. Never heard anything bad about MOOG until I put them on. Who knows if they are different now. Guess I will find out.

My first gauges were part of a Banks system I installed. All was fine until the tuner crapped out and I lost the gauges too. So I added stand alone FP, EGT, and Boost. I run a Comp now and need the gauges. Would like to go to a Quad in the future but will keep the gauges. The biggest draw back to Edge is bigger than stock injectors will get smokey and you dont have a way to tune the smoke out.

I had the ABS/brake on a couple years back with new front bearings on. I replace the rear sensor and the light stayed on. Then about 2 months later it went off and has not been on since. The ABS works as it should now, though it did not while the lights were on. I have no idea as to why it took so long and never lost the speedo during the entire episode.

Good luck. Be good to know where this goes. The shop that did mine told me upfront there was a good chance it was cracked from their experience, but it all turned out good for me.

I had hard starting issues about 6 weeks before mine failed. Got 216 code when the idle started messing up. Cleared it and came back 3 days later when the pump failed completely. Checking out Blue Chip Diesel's VP trouble shooting guide is good advice.

You can post the link. No harm no foul.

And who says there is a lack of humor on here these days. I believe @IBMobile has a chicken generator of anything at his house.

You are forgiven.

I have new redone drivers seat cushion awaiting my arse. It is also awaiting my retirement so I dont get in and out of it 24 times a day. But I do like the covers.

My OE clutch held up under adding a Banks tuner rated at 75 rwhp. I then later added RV275's. I towed my first trailer at 12k pounds and then my second at 15k pounds and never once slipped the clutc even on a 6% grade. Changed it out somewhere around 250k. I want that smooth clutch back. I loved it.

They do look nice.

Someone has been to HF. Let usknow how it holds up. Looked at that a few times myself.

I ran a K&N on mine for 7 to 8 years. When I washed it I soaked in the cleaner overnight. The next day I sloshed it around in the cleaner until whatever would come came off which was maybe 80%. Then rinsed it running water from a hose with no nozzle. If any thing remained I left it there. I then dried it in the sun, oiled and reinstalled it. On occasion I would spray some more oil on it. I did everything I could do to not disturb the filter media. I did have some oil on the compressor blades but never noticed any dusting in the piping but never really looked for it. This is not a pro or con on using one. Each owner has to decide what they want to use. It is just my experience on the 02 Dodge. My 96 with a V10 also had one in it when I bought it with 80k miles on the clock. At 165k it dropped a valve thru #10 piston. K & N related, you will have to be the judge because I dont know for sure. The wifes 2000 Dakota came with one on it and she had it serviced one day. Called me and told the guy did her a favor and cleaned it real good with compressed air. A big no no in the K&N book. I threw it away because it had holes in the media that a quarter would go thru.

The 216 is the code I was speaking of. It is a mechanical failure of the timing piston inside the pump. You have symptoms that you describe in the title of the thread and the code. The VP is dying. I cant link the articles on my tablet. But they are in the articles section under 2nd gen 24v, engine, electrical then scroll the pages. You can check the ac voltage with a good DVM set on AC voltage. Test at the charge stud on the alternator. You want to see .050 or less. My volt meter is auto and will read in milliamps if yours has the setting use it. As far as a scope, thats over my electrically challenged brain. Excess ac voltage can fry the computer on the VP but your failire is mechanical. This could be from low fuel pressure as @JAG1 mentions.

When my oe master cylinder failed it did so internally. No fluid loss, the internal seals failed. Took a couple months for to fail with warning sgns however. I dont of any way to check the pilot bearing without pulling tranny.

That is most likely the problem. Some here have made for a while with that code. Mine acted up right before Thanksgiving and spit that code. After clearing it it settled down and the following Sunday it crapped the bed completely and I had to replace it.

Big fat chicken finger fingers, this tablet and no proof read leads to weird looking posts. You still missed one, dealt is not spelled dealth. I feel better already. It did appear with a quick look that LMC did have some at comparable prices. Never hurts look. This tablet keyboard only allows me to do that.

Caulk it. Lowes very well may a color matched caulk for that purpose both in sanded and non sanded depending on what you used. Sillicone works well too but color choice is much more limited.

I always check mine on the charge post on the alternator.

Guess I missed the CS issues with RA. I have not to deal with their CS dept. Just got a small order from them this week. LMC Truck is another good company and I have dealth with them in the past. I dont always think of them for mechanical parts but carry some good things and are worth a look.