IBMobile

They just don't make them like they use to.

Maybe this law firm can help. https://www.classaction.com/toyota-oil-consumption-defect/lawsuit/

The extended warranty covered 07-08 RAV4 along with other Toyota models and years. The warranty expired on October 31, 2014. Check the under hood emissions label that shows what engine type the vehicle has, 2AZ-FE. You may want to call a Toyota specialist and see what info they my have for high oil consumsition on your model year.

Toyota 2006-2008 RAV4 with the 2AZ-FE engine has been experiencing high oil consumption due to poor piston rings and there is a service bulletin, T-SB-0094-11, that explains the fix. There are other Toyota models in the 2011 year with the same problem. Toyota is not the only car manufacture to experience this problem. The 2007-2011 Volvo 3.2L engine had the same problem due to poor piston ring material.

I just got of the phone with Judy, a real nice lady, at Catfish RV and confirmed that I have a reservation for site #7. She said that her RV park is full now with 100 RVs and no tent sites available. I'm glade I made that reservation a year ago. There are a couple of places up the road from there that you can dry camp at but I'd get there early because they expect a lot of people to show up for the weekend.

The Gear Vender over/under drive is all most identical to the British made Laycock overdrive used in M G, Triumph, and Volvo motor cars. Over the years I've had the pleasure of rebuilding/replacing this type of overdrive. The biggest problem I found was the bore for the sleeve piston wearing. The sleeve piston is made from hard steel and the bores are machined into the softer metal of the housing. When the pressurized fluid (400-600psi depending on engine type, and 650-700psi for Gear Vender) is routed to the bores it will bypass the o-ring seal on the piston and the cone clutch will not engage. I see that Gear Vender sell them for $3700 plus installation. You can buy a lot of performance upgrades for that kind of money.

Why not do the oil change in a flat parking lot? I've done literally hundreds of oil changes in paring lots (ie: Wal-mart, Safeway, apartments) and on the side of the street. In 23 years of running a mobile maintenance and repair business I've only been told 4 times that I couldn't do that kind of work on the property. Just don't make a mess.

I agree. Adjustable upper ball joints for a camber problem. Those adjusters pictured above are for caster adjustment. Toe adjustment is done with the tie rod.

I have to agree. Any vehicle I've driven/rode in that has Bilstein shocks had a very firm/hard ride. Bilstein shock may be good for the track but not the road. After 93k miles and only paved roads I still have the original shocks on the my truck but the shocks or struts I put on customers' cars are the Monroe Sensa-Trac. They are a gas filled shock that gives a nice ride, are reasonably priced and never had one fail. They are available for the Ram 2500.

I'll bring the tools.

I thought the lift pump relay was the "protection relay"

The ceramic clutch material is much harder than the steel of the pressure plate or flywheel. The difference in the wear between the pressure plate and the flywheel can be directly attributed to the material hardness of the components.

My wife said I could go if after the eclipse I took her to Glacier National Park, Banff and Jasper Canada with a side trip to Yellowstone on the way home.

The hole calls for a tap size of 1/8-27 NPT but what size drill bit are you using. I am seeing drill bit sizes of 21/64 (.328") with reamer, Q (.332") without a reamer, R (.339") straight pipe thread, or 11/32 (.3438). What say you?

Don't forget all the secret words that have to be used.

I would send it to a body shop that does frame straightening and repair. It doesn't look to bad and once straight and new/used parts should bolt right up.

Fuel pumps push fuel, as the fuel is discharged (pushed) from the pump a vacuum is formed and atmospheric pressure pushes fuel out of the tank and to the pump the same way atmospheric pressure pushes fuel out of a tank when you siphon it. The fuel pump should be as close to the fuel tank as possible.

I have a little of that on my left side from time to time. JAG1 has had it to on both sides and said he lubed the door weather stripping and it went away. It could also be bad body to frame mounts.

Check out these sites for that info. https://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/10/carfax_facts.html https://brokensecrets.com/2010/08/23/how-does-information-get-on-a-carfax-report/ If I could get the insurance company to pay me the $745 I'd fix the car for $130 and put the balance of $615 in my pocket. My work van has been hit three different times. Every time I was either stopped in traffic or it was parked. All the damages have been minor (small dents and dings) but the other guys' insurance companies have paid me over $2,250 for damages. That's more than what the van is worth. Some of the things I fixed myself and somethings didn't get fixed but the money went into my pocket.

I tow about 9,000lb with a 4:10 diff and 245/75-16 tires, engine turning 1800-2000rpm at 55-62 RPM all day long in 4th (OD). No luging here.

The beauty of this is you can go to the Olive Garden for dinner and get your truck detailed too. Can't do that at Chick-fil-A.

I don't think a spacer is needed with a 265. Check this site out for tire size tools. https://tiresize.com/tires/Dodge/Ram/2001/3500-QuadCab-2wd-Dually/

Is that Italian or Portuguese virgin or extra virgin olive oil?

JAG1 and I went up the side of a mountain to get this picture. The camp ground we stay at is in the valley below just out of sight to the left.