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I didn't know you were from Brooklyn.

The codes were P0420 and P0430? I've had the same codes on other cars and fix them by using spark plug non-foulers. Drill the inside of one non-fouler to just over ½ inch so that the rear O² sensor can be screwed into it. Now screw that non-fouler with the O² sensor into the other non-fouler. Install all that into the exhaust bung and you're done. O'Reilly sells the non-foulers 2 for $10; part# 42009.

One draw back that I see is if the cove needs to come off there is only one source for the oring where the gasket is produced by several manufacturers. If that one source for the oring goes out of business, what would you do?

This is a good quick read about the subject. https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a3428/4271579/

A YouTube video about this. (293) RAM 3500 Frame Cracked In Half By Camper Fail: This Is What Happens When You Assume... - YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHD_R8NUCa8

Dynamic Transmisson was my choice when my trans needed rebuilding. I shipped it from San Diego to his shop.

Here are three but there are more; Google 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 turbo diesel dipstick. https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3937748/?gclid=CjwKCAiA-8SdBhBGEiwAWdgtcEV-gOnjYLV28iJN4k5IsL3fpi-HggXHwLtmy27GwMOXXQUJtUHI9xoCuxAQAvD_BwE https://www.ebay.com/itm/265237412749?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1FtIoryZKRn-Hn5T-_JaRqQ82&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=265237412749&targetid=1644837434523&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9031295&poi=&campaignid=16743749222&mkgroupid=138744546207&rlsatarget=pla-1644837434523&abcId=9300842&merchantid=138378214&gclid=CjwKCAiA-8SdBhBGEiwAWdgtcDAuVpch1R6jsIQlflRXGEzrfcPOyCNTeqV3fuMERdfOoizp-N5lLhoCNJsQAvD_BwE https://www.xtremediesel.com/cummins-3959009-engine-oil-dipstick-flat-blade-style?gclid=CjwKCAiA-8SdBhBGEiwAWdgtcKhPe6jsYGfon4lWXExcveOLq1h_JKjNsJ2qDq2nowflxqYECI69txoCIokQAvD_BwE

May the New Year bring you happiness, peace, and prosperity. Wishing you a joyous 2023!

leave that ground attached to the head. You may want to clean the connection there. Reattach all the connections to the back of the alternator, one cable is for the ground and the other cable is the B+ charge which will be routed to the positive terminal on the right (passenger) side battery. The other two wires are for voltage control from the PCM. The blue wire is where you can install a (5-7.5 amp) fuse for PCM protection. It's not that much work to open that wire harness to expose everything. If you disconnect the alternator charge wire at the PDC you will then have its full length to work with when routing it to the right-side battery via a fuse or circuit breaker. When you open the wire harness up you will see where the ground wires are all joined this where you want to make your cut so that you have enough wire to work with and have a clean looking job.

If I had a load of mesquite I'd be barbecuing a pig.

Another thing with high electrical loads is the fuse you add, to protect the PCM, in the blue wire from the alternator. I tried a 5-amp fuse, but it popped when the grid heaters and E-brake air compressor were on together. I put a 7.5-amp fuse in and no more trouble.

No, I wouldn't worry about those things at all.

Check that the vent hoses on the axles are there and no water infiltrated the axle housings and contaminated the oil.

Google push pin rivet. I picked up a spare in the pick apart yard.

A simple answer is yes, a 50/50 mix will work for your location in Texas. As the concentrate of antifreeze is increased the boiling point is increased but the drawback to that is at higher concentrations the ability of the coolant mixture to absorb and release heat is reduced. I experienced this in 1986 when a customer's car was running hot/overheating all the time. After talking to him he said that he had "flushed "the cooling system and fill it with 100% antifreeze. After draining and refilling the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze the overheating problem was fixed. The other import part of the cooling system to increase the temperature at which the engine coolant will boil is the system pressure cap. The higher the pressure the higher the boiling point. For every PSI increase in pressure the boiling point is raised ~2.5°F (1.39°C). There for an OEM radiator pressure cap rated at 16 PSI will raise the boiling point to 252°F (122.24°C). Do not go above the vehicle manufactures recommended pressure or failure of other cooling system components will occur.

Here is a chart to help visualize freeze point to mixture percentages.

This is part of the sacrifice they must be willing to make to the environmental Goddess Gaia, the preventer of global warming.

It sounds like the solenoid/Bendix in the starter motor sticks when very cold.

Some of us are of the mindset that you need the fuse, and some say you don't need one. You can do the full mod and install the fuss or circuit breaker later; just leave the cable from the B+ alternator terminal to the right-side battery positive post a bit longer to have something to work with.

Make a wind block out of cardboard, plywood, table turned on its side, and a tarp.

@wil440, what do you use to test the engine coolant's condition? I've been using these

May all that is beautiful, meaningful and brings you joy be yours this holiday season and throughout the coming year!

Why yes, there are plenty of snowflakes, but they all melt when they hit the ground and they don't amount to anything.

I use Wi-Fi for my phone and the laptop with no problem getting on this site. Somebody savvier than me will chime in. Help Mr. Wizard.

I'm still looking for a snow shovel. Can't seem to find one in San Diego.